SIII 109 body on a 110 chassis?

Oilburner

Adventurer
Come to think of it there was a red 109 5 door running around the northeastern LR meets a while back that had a 110 rear tub. The wheel wasn't centered but it was a lot closer that Matt's photo. Now, they might have just pushed the axle back a few inches with some special spring perches, but it looked pretty factory.
 

phoenix37

New member
Ok so dropped the 109 body onto my 110 chassis last night (by myself and boy let me tell you that was fun) and honestly i dont really see the major difference in the axles lining up like they do in Matt's photos. As a matter of fact they seem to line up perfectly. My series truck is an Ex mod 109. Are those tubs different than a regular series truck? Could that be the reason it seems to line up better than the one in the photo?
 

phoenix37

New member
Still owe you a picture. In the meantime whats the ideal bulkhead and seat box to use for this? Should i use the SII bulkhead and seat box or the NAS 110 bulkead and seatbox or something different altogether? I want to keep the V8 and a SII front end. Sorry to hijack the thread.
 

revor

Explorer
the 110 seatbox (mostly the tunnel) will fit over the tranny without mods.
The Series most likely will not.
 

junkyddog11

Oil Soaked Filter
phoenix37 said:
. My series truck is an Ex mod 109

yup, mine also. The differance may be that the frame mine is sitting on is an MOD 3 door 110?. Dunno, but if you measure the front section of a 110 3 door tub along the skirt in front of the rear wheel it is several inches longer than the 109.

I can't duplicate the apparent fit that you have achived regardless of which 110 frame I put this tub on or the civvy tubs on NAS frames either (for some reason I seem to have a good selection of everything available at hand right now)
 

junkyddog11

Oil Soaked Filter
phoenix37 said:
Still owe you a picture. In the meantime whats the ideal bulkhead and seat box to use for this? Should i use the SII bulkhead and seat box or the NAS 110 bulkead and seatbox or something different altogether? I want to keep the V8 and a SII front end. Sorry to hijack the thread.

Using the SII front end will be very difficult if you intend to keep the auto. I've done V8's and kept the Series front end (and the engine driven fan) but with the auto (or anything for that matter) you will have to do some serious fiddling.
 

cgalpin

Observer
Reviving an old thread because there is a lot of discussion abotu a picture which I don't see. Can anyone point me to this picture of a 109" body on a 110 frame? I'd like to see the wheel well differences (or lack thereof).

Thanks
 

Skookumchuck

Observer
good thread, my 68 109 has been altered to defender cutout profiles to fit the larger tire the PO set it up for. I was considering putting cooils under it but I think I will stay with the Para's
 

camelus

New member
summary :)

Hello! I tried to follow this thread even if my "technical english" is poor... I would have the same idea of the 1st post in this discussion: to put a 109 body on a 110 sw chassis (300Tdi 1996). Maybe the whole body, maybe keeping the 110 body "around the engine" (is it correct to say "from bulkhed to the front"?
I read the thread but sow few pics... do someone have some updates? I read about the differences between body and axle position but I did not understand if/what solution there is.

thanks so much,
 

cgalpin

Observer
Hi camelus

First, I would consider getting a new 109 chassis with coiler suspension mounts. It would be the simplest and also a fresh start.

But putting a 109 body on a 110 frame can be done and I believe is far less work than using a RRC LWB frame because I was going to do that first and even had a stripped down frame in my hands before getting a 110 frame.

From the bulkhead forward the fit is perfect in terms of the wheel openings, you just mount the bulkhead behind the front outriggers instead of in front of it like a defender. You will have to make some small changes at the front crossmember to mount the breakfast to, and you will need to modify your front bumper mounts or use a defender bumper (slightly wider). You have to make steering modifications of course.

The body mounts up to stock mounts at the seatbox and front of the tub, but as you go further back you may need to adjust some tub supports. If you just put it on the 110 frame, it would look something like this. Note the rear wheels sit pretty far back, but the picture is at extended bump stop height so you could in fact live with it this way.

http://cdn-2-service.phanfare.com/i...Full_3/0_0_815e9fe447a03d0fe258d0c86cb94629_1
http://cdn-2-service.phanfare.com/i...Full_4/0_0_3efcfd6d99494f1bcbfc9ea969079c55_1

I needed to replace the rear cross member anyway so it was easy for me to remove about 1.25" of the frame and then fit a new crossmember and not change any of the suspension geometry. In the end it looks like this:

http://cdn-2-service.phanfare.com/i...Full_3/0_0_fc2fc1d6d8117857cbc37ab9fa44bcd4_1
http://cdn-2-service.phanfare.com/i...Full_3/0_0_6a8e6b88e6cd6e7e8f98f6d9cfe23d4f_1

I have lots more pictures here but you'll have to dig around a bout and ignore all the non-relevant stuff to a "normal" build.

http://galpin.phanfare.com/Series2AHybrid

I also described the body on frame stuff here: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/showpost.php?p=472379&postcount=183

There are likely lots of other issues to consider depending on the motor you use of course.

hth
charles
 

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