YYCRod
Member
Thanks for the pointers. I'll check all of that today after work.
Smittybilt Scout Trailer Reviews?
- Thread starter Tkhawk
- Start date
Thanks for the pointers. I'll check all of that today after work.
Silverback07
Adventurer
Wow, how miss-wired was it? I pulled the connector trailer-end apart and the colors match up to the standard 7 pin diagrams. The brake pin on the connector has 2 blue wires (I assume 1 per brake side) connected. I don't want to risk frying my brand new T3 controller. Is there anyway to check with a multimeter? If I hook up a motorcycle battery to the 2 trailer-side connector pins (Brake and Ground), should I hear the brakes engage? BTW, I'Il be posting a few pics of my setup shortly... I borrowed a few ideas from your build. Hope you don't mind
I didn't bother trying to determine what the issue was. Just got a new harness in the box they sent me. When I got mine they neglected to send the "electrics box", but a quick call to SB and they had it over-nighted to my house. Was surprised to see the harness and instructions telling me to pull all the old out of the frame to replace with this new one. The wire was pretty thin so I decided to build my own and be done with it. It was pretty easy. I also ran a couple extra wires for future use, maybe backup lights for example.
Like this https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Batte...Clamp-Mount-Stand-For-Auto-Boat-/152658895377
Or strong tie-down straps.
If FLA make sure acid resistant.
And if you've got 600lbs' worth make sure the box floor frame etc itself won't go flying forward in a head-on.
Or strong tie-down straps.
If FLA make sure acid resistant.
And if you've got 600lbs' worth make sure the box floor frame etc itself won't go flying forward in a head-on.
YYCRod
Member
We connected the trailer to a friends F350 with factory tow package and low and behold, it all seems to work. It looks like I forgot to hookup the 12v black power wire from the battery to the vehicle plug when putting my brake controller it.... that might be the problem (fingers crossed).
Silverback07
Adventurer
I built a hold-down and then installed it in a NOCO group 31 battery box. Used 1/4 all-thread and went through the bottom of the tongue box. Its not going anywhere.
Good golly big photos! Sorry.
Kraxler
Active member
Looking for a female receptical to mount on the front box to bring in power from solar panels to a solar controller charger. Found wire pass through but no plug type thing.
ratled
Adventurer
Depending on what type of connector that is on your panel. Zamp makes a Zamp Flush Mount that could work if your system uses that kind of connector. One end is flush mounted and the other end is bare wire to plug into your solar charger. Renogy makes a Zamp style to MC4 connector that is plug n play if you need to go from MC4 to Zamp (SAE) style that can seen HERE
Make sure not to put much current through SAE, IMO 10A or less.
I prefer Anderson connectors as a standard for DC connections. Self-wiping contacts, very robust over time.
You can easily ensure sufficient ampacity, conservatively rated.
Powerwerx has a good range of fittings.
I prefer Anderson connectors as a standard for DC connections. Self-wiping contacts, very robust over time.
You can easily ensure sufficient ampacity, conservatively rated.
Powerwerx has a good range of fittings.
blare
New member
Finally made some more progress on the wiring. I couldn’t bring myself to cut a hole in the tongue box for switches so I went back and forth with different ideas to hold the switch panel and all the other electronic gear. It dawned on me that I had a n old ammo laying around that might foot the bill. Current plan is to mount the blue sea fuse block inside the ammo can, a cut off switch on the outside, and the noco charger on the outside. Major plus being one I figure out what I really want there won’t be any extra holes to fill.
