split axle from f250 1980-1997 front quigley used.
- Thread starter rebar
- Start date
rebar
Adventurer
Thanks Chris.. Other than the dana axle.. What other parts would I need to replace the split ford axle with a dana?
Man.. I thought I hit paydirt with this e250..
ujoint
Supporting Sponsor
You'll need a complete kit less the t-case parts.
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
TTB has a great ride on road and off, excellent wheel travel at any ride height, great OE parts availability, great aftermarket support...
It does have more wearable parts (u-joints, high-deflection bushings) and it requires a trained alignment technician or knowledgeable owner.
It's also going to be more susceptible to damage from giant tires and lockers. The popular Dana 60 solid axle comes from 1 ton trucks (F350, etc) while the Dana 50 TTB comes from 3/4 ton trucks (F250, etc) so there's obviously a strength difference. That being said, TTBs are common with turbo diesels, 460s, and snow plows, etc without problems.
It does have more wearable parts (u-joints, high-deflection bushings) and it requires a trained alignment technician or knowledgeable owner.
It's also going to be more susceptible to damage from giant tires and lockers. The popular Dana 60 solid axle comes from 1 ton trucks (F350, etc) while the Dana 50 TTB comes from 3/4 ton trucks (F250, etc) so there's obviously a strength difference. That being said, TTBs are common with turbo diesels, 460s, and snow plows, etc without problems.
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rebar
Adventurer
Yeah, but good info in buried in the archive's.
Like this..
How consistent did ford keep the van frames through the generations? Did the 3rd gen, which is where you might find a S/K TTB, have a different width?
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AFBronco235
Crew Chief
The only problems with aligning a TTB front suspension is that most kids these days don't know how to use a damn tape measure. You don't need a fancy laser alignment machine to align the tires. Just a tape measure and some good tires.
The TTB is just as tough as a solid axle, but with a much smoother ride. Granted, its not made for the heavier vehicles, 1 ton and up, and would need heavy reinforcements, but for the 3/4 ton and down, its works great. I've seen guys in Broncos, which all had the TTB after 1980, jump their rigs with the original stock suspension with no problems. Within reason of course. I would recommend heavier coil springs but other than that, its an excellent system.
The system is a bit more complicated, but not beyond a good garage mechanics abilities.
To anybody who does try to install a TTB, know this. They came with two different hub sizes. One size for factory manual hubs and one for factory auto-locking hubs. However, due to the weak design of the auto hubs, many were converted to manual using factory style manual hubs and a conversion kit. So if you pick up a TTB from the junkyard, and it has manual hubs, you need to get the numbers off the bearings before you replace them so you can get the correct bearings and seals for a rebuild.
The TTB is just as tough as a solid axle, but with a much smoother ride. Granted, its not made for the heavier vehicles, 1 ton and up, and would need heavy reinforcements, but for the 3/4 ton and down, its works great. I've seen guys in Broncos, which all had the TTB after 1980, jump their rigs with the original stock suspension with no problems. Within reason of course. I would recommend heavier coil springs but other than that, its an excellent system.
The system is a bit more complicated, but not beyond a good garage mechanics abilities.
To anybody who does try to install a TTB, know this. They came with two different hub sizes. One size for factory manual hubs and one for factory auto-locking hubs. However, due to the weak design of the auto hubs, many were converted to manual using factory style manual hubs and a conversion kit. So if you pick up a TTB from the junkyard, and it has manual hubs, you need to get the numbers off the bearings before you replace them so you can get the correct bearings and seals for a rebuild.