Get your tickets to THE BIG THING 2026!

Supertramp Flagship LT pop-up slide-in pickup camper

I have some technical questions for those with an STC LT who chose to install their relocated backup cam next to the rear exterior light. I’ve looked at a Rostra 250-8701H housing which has been discontinued and replaced with model 250-8714 w/o brake light or 250-8715 w/ brake light. I’m not wild about how far the 8714 or 8715 project from the camper shell, 2 27/32” to be exact. This housing is almost 5 3/4” wide which I believe would conceal a straight Fakra coax connector perfectly. It’s kind of bulky.
So I think I’m back to looking at the Zorg 4210 housing because it’s a smaller housing. For those with the Zorg who installed themselves,
-does a straight Fakra connector fit within the housing or will the 90 degree connector be needed?
-did you make a custom notch in the left side of the housing for cable entry?

Thanks in advance
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3578.png
    IMG_3578.png
    1.7 MB · Views: 10
I have some technical questions for those with an STC LT who chose to install their relocated backup cam next to the rear exterior light. I’ve looked at a Rostra 250-8701H housing which has been discontinued and replaced with model 250-8714 w/o brake light or 250-8715 w/ brake light. I’m not wild about how far the 8714 or 8715 project from the camper shell, 2 27/32” to be exact. This housing is almost 5 3/4” wide which I believe would conceal a straight Fakra coax connector perfectly. It’s kind of bulky.
So I think I’m back to looking at the Zorg 4210 housing because it’s a smaller housing. For those with the Zorg who installed themselves,
-does a straight Fakra connector fit within the housing or will the 90 degree connector be needed?
-did you make a custom notch in the left side of the housing for cable entry?

Thanks in advance

For my 2024 Superduty, with digital cameras (360 camera package), I bought only the Zorg housing from Bob's Automotive Mirror's and more. You can buy only the Zorg housing, or the housing and the cable. I chose to source the cable from elsewhere because a digital cable is a digital cable and so cable was $18 rather than $95 (this was a couple years ago as the cable adds $140 nowadays).
The housing and cable is currently $290 + shipping.
Zorg housing only is currently $150 + shipping.
Using this link, price will change depending on what options you choose from the drop downs:
https://www.bobsmirrors.com/Zorg-Mu...rd-Jeep-RAM-Trucks--Universal-Kit_p_1549.html

My Ford camera had the 90degree bend so my Fakra cable was straight. I did make a little notch for the cable to come out. I used the included screws (predrilled pilot holes) and the adhesive. It's not going anywhere. I also ran a bead of silicone across the top of the housing (not underneath so no trapped water).

I first tried what was supposed to be an OEM camera from ebay, but it didn't work so I returned it. I then pulled the camera out of my tailgate just to get everything up and running. Later, I bought one directly from Ford, tested it to ensure it worked, then installed that one in my tailgate.

Here are pics where I removed it from my tailgate if you want to see the guts. I only have these few pics of the Zorg handy. I'll see if I have any more because I probably took some of the internals.

20240519_153609.webp


20240519_153615.webp


20240519_153943.webp


20240519_154116.webp


20240519_154122.webp


20240519_172841.webp
 
Last edited:
Thanks Chad. I had removed the tailgate handle and OEM camera a couple of weeks ago to confirm the camera part number and ordered a second camera before we picked up the LT.

From your picture of the Zorg, the heat shrink will protrude from the housing?

I had previously found the Zorg installation pdf with internal photos but they only show the 90 degree connector, not the straight.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Chad. I had removed the tailgate handle and OEM camera a couple of weeks ago to confirm the camera part number and ordered a second camera before we picked up the LT.

From your picture of the Zorg, the heat shrink will protrude from the housing?

I had previously found the Zorg installation pdf with internal photos but they only show the 90 degree connector, not the straight.

Regarding the 90degree vs straight cable, here is the Zorg website https://www.zorg-na.com/product/4210/ which shows some views of the housing and adaptors for various brand camera. In the picture of the various brand cameras, you can see some have the connector straight off the back which would require a 90degree cable connector or adapter. Not sure which brand that is, but the Ford ones have a 90 degree connector on the camera, so the Fakra connector can run straight off that and out the side of the Zorg housing.

Yes, the heat shrink protrudes from the housing with the particular "RG58 Fakra Z Female to Fakra Z Female Coaxial RF" cable that I used, but that length heat shrink seems typical when I look at different sources including the one that Bob's Mirrors would include in their kit. Picture below is the picture off the cheap 15' ebay cable I used (which is still only $18.49 by the way).

For Flagship owners that have the STC-installed camera, can anyone share a close-up picture of your camera, particularly where the cable comes out of the Zorg housing? I assume it also has heatshrink extending out of the Zorg housing.


Capture.JPG
 
Updated photo on the Super Duty engine bay electrical accessories plate. A bit of road grime from the return cross country trip with the winter weather. Plate may be powder coated once I figure out what other accessories I’d like to add to it .
Decided to run the negative cable to one of the two OEM left rear chassis ground locations above the spare tire.IMG_4760.jpeg
 
My power system is back up and running. I trickle charged each of the 4 batteries back to ~13.20V, wired them all back up, and shore power is taking it from here. I now know the system really well, and it's good to know it's fairly robust overall. But glad to have it behind me, particularly because we're supposed to take it out next weekend. Back to the fun!
 
My power system is back up and running. I trickle charged each of the 4 batteries back to ~13.20V, wired them all back up, and shore power is taking it from here. I now know the system really well, and it's good to know it's fairly robust overall. But glad to have it behind me, particularly because we're supposed to take it out next weekend. Back to the fun!
It’s always good to get acquainted with things if one is comfortable with that. Enjoy.
 
Last edited:
Updated photo on the Super Duty engine bay electrical accessories plate. A bit of road grime from the return cross country trip with the winter weather. Plate may be powder coated once I figure out what other accessories I’d like to add to it .
Decided to run the negative cable to one of the two OEM left rear chassis ground locations above the spare tire.

Slick. And I like that STV protected the conductors with with those sleeves.
That particular area the Superduty can experience some water drain from above. Might be worth taking a look next rain storm, or do a garden hose experiment, just to understand the path the water takes when it drains down to ensure the plate doesn't catch/divert water to an undesired spot. But it sure is a nice platform to mount the breaker and future accessories. I've always disliked screwing into the firewall area or other body panels.
 
My power system is back up and running. I trickle charged each of the 4 batteries back to ~13.20V, wired them all back up, and shore power is taking it from here. I now know the system really well, and it's good to know it's fairly robust overall. But glad to have it behind me, particularly because we're supposed to take it out next weekend. Back to the fun!

Great to hear, @roamie! Doing a trip to use the system, with a little extra monitoring this first trip, will give you confidence in the system again. Enjoy your trip next week. We're going to head out today for a quick overnight trip. Speaking of which, I guess I better go load the truck and camper rather than just talking about it in the internet. Ha.
 
Slick. And I like that STV protected the conductors with with those sleeves.
That particular area the Superduty can experience some water drain from above. Might be worth taking a look next rain storm, or do a garden hose experiment, just to understand the path the water takes when it drains down to ensure the plate doesn't catch/divert water to an undesired spot. But it sure is a nice platform to mount the breaker and future accessories. I've always disliked screwing into the firewall area or other body panels.
@Chadx I am aware of the drainage path and took that into consideration when designing it. It has not proved to be an issue yet. If it does prove to be an issue in the future, it will be an easy remedy.
I’m not sure what you mean by STV though.

I installed all of the 1/0 cabling and protection if that helps.
 
Last edited:
Just submitted a request to ST to upgrade my camper with a few of the new options.

100aH charging (dual 50’s)
Guzzle H2O purifier and faucet
External solar port
Lockable water fill
Dimmer switch

These are all non negotiable as far as I’m concerned….. I love my ST but this fixes any and all of the shortcomings it has. Price from ST isn’t cheap but I have to be out there for my actuator upgrade anyway. Once this is done my camper will be north of $90k but should be perfect…. I can’t believe that’s the price but I guess you can’t put a price on comfort.
Good call on the upgrades. I had them add an external 12v plug to run a laptop when working outside/12v lights for awning/shower cube/starlink if I want to take it off the roof an move it to spot w/ a clear view of the sky. Would recommend. Also, ask them if they would install a 3 way switch with the dimmer so you can turn off the lights in bed.


arb.jpg
 
Good call on the upgrades. I had them add an external 12v plug to run a laptop when working outside/12v lights for awning/shower cube/starlink if I want to take it off the roof an move it to spot w/ a clear view of the sky. Would recommend. Also, ask them if they would install a 3 way switch with the dimmer so you can turn off the lights in bed.


View attachment 909219
Hey, thanks for the excellent suggestions!!

So tell me more about these other upgrades…. I hadn’t really thought about exterior lighting and haven’t seen anything listed about that anywhere.

Most importantly the switch? I have always thought it crazy you couldn’t turn the lights off from bed? Tell me more about this one, is there a second switch over by the bed somewhere? Pics would be helpful if it’s not too much trouble.

Thank you in advance for your help!!
 
Hey, thanks for the excellent suggestions!!

So tell me more about these other upgrades…. I hadn’t really thought about exterior lighting and haven’t seen anything listed about that anywhere.

Most importantly the switch? I have always thought it crazy you couldn’t turn the lights off from bed? Tell me more about this one, is there a second switch over by the bed somewhere? Pics would be helpful if it’s not too much trouble.

Thank you in advance for your help!!
Re: the 12v lights exterior, there's light strips in the 23zero awning and the shower cube. You can power them with a portable power brick or you can plug them into the 12v outlet with a cigeratte lighter usb-c adapter. My big use is for the Starlink and powering laptop while working outside.

Re: the dimmer and 3 way switch. I don't think STC does that, but it's something they should do. I saw another member attach a second wire switch to the bottom of the lift actuator next to the bed. I also saw someone replace the on/off light switch at the entry with a Bluesea dimmer. There's a video on YT by ExploristLife that shows how to wire in two 3-way switches with a dimmer. The switches would be on-off-on switches and one would be at the original location and the 2nd one somewhere near the bed. I will wire in a dimmer and place that by the bed as well. I made a power bank that attached to the L-Track near the bed that has a couple of 12v outlets and 2 mag safe chargers. I'm going to add the other switch and the dimmer to that. See pic below. The mag safe charger will move to the top. Everything is velcro on the edges, so things can be moved around easily. Wires get tucked into the factory loom, so it looks seamless. Parts are ordered and hopefully will fab it up in the next week or so. This really should be an option from STC. There's plenty of space available to install it above the factory installed 12v plugs next to the heater. I've been using dimmable rechargable lights from Amazon hanging from the ceiling L track and dimmable batter power fairy lights as we find the factory ceiling lights way too bright. It would be great to simplify things and not have to worry about charging the batteries for these individual lights.

1771287465050.png
 

Forum statistics

Threads
191,276
Messages
2,935,007
Members
235,274
Latest member
ELShockley
Top