**Tepui RTTs and Accessories**

Box Rocket

Well-known member
Box Rocket,

I'm in the process of planning my kit for my F150 and I'm finding it difficult to find a bed rack/topper that fits what I want, so I figure I'm going to have to build it myself. To that end, can you provide detailed mounting requirements and packed standing heights of the Tepui tents? I'm looking hard at the ruggedized Autana, but building the rack to be as adaptable as possible would be ideal.

I'm dynamic impact analysis engineer during the week - I'll eat up every bit of technical information that you can give me.
Relative to a footprint of the packed tent, could you lay out where and how strong the mounting needs to be, and where is ideal?
How much load has Tepui designed the tents to take for relatively static loading (overnight sleeping with wind load, wind load while driving) and dynamic loading (going over rough trails for low frequency loading and washboard roads for high frequency loading)?
What are typical/acceptable/anticipated anchoring designs for the tent-to-rack interface?

Thanks!
Wow! Well, as a non-engineer you're going to get a dumbed down answer that is probably not as detailed as you'd hope, but it's the best I can do. I hope you'll forgive me. :)
If you are needing to build a custom rack.....
Closed dimensions of the Autana Ruggedized are 48x56" with a total height (including mounting rails and stowed ladder) of 15"
The supplied mounting rails are 32" apart center to center and typically run the long axis of the tent but can be mounted to other direction also (this requires the rails to be shortened).
Mounting locations can be anywhere along that rail since the brackets slide in the rails. So you should be able to make your mounting locations wherever makes the most sense for what you want from your rack. Ideally the mounting brackets are located approximately somewhere in the outer 25% of each end of the rail.
The standard tents are rated to hold 800lbs and since the Ruggedized models are more sturdy construction you can plan on at least that. There are not numbers specifically for dynamic loads of difficult trails and washboard roads. Just too many variables to account for. What I can say is that I regularly travel rough terrain with my tents and under normal conditions there is no need for concern. I also travel faster than most on washboarded/rutted roads and the tent mounting is more than adequate for this travel also.
Typical/acceptable mounting is to use the supplied mounting brackets/hardware, although you could upgrade it to something else if you felt like it, although alteranative mounting methods may not be covered under warranty if damage occurs.

.

.

Tents have been used in winds up to 100mph without issue.
 

JKUR

New member
Box Rocket,
Would you happen to know the maximum vehicle height for the Autana with attached anex? My Gobi just shipped out today so I'm trying to decide on a RTT. It will go on a 2015 JKUR with 3" lift and 35's but I'm not sure the rack height yet. Also is the standard non ruggedized non sky Autana not being made anymore?
 

Box Rocket

Well-known member
Box Rocket,
Would you happen to know the maximum vehicle height for the Autana with attached anex? My Gobi just shipped out today so I'm trying to decide on a RTT. It will go on a 2015 JKUR with 3" lift and 35's but I'm not sure the rack height yet. Also is the standard non ruggedized non sky Autana not being made anymore?

Ideal height for a tent with the annex attached is between 6' and 6'8" to use full height of the annex. Lower will still work with a bit a slack in the walls, higher can also work and there are annex extensions available if needed.
.
The "old" standard Autana has been replaced by the Autana Sky. You can get the Siberian Camo Autana that is standard materials without the Sky Windows.
 

Box Rocket

Well-known member
FYI, I will be attending FJ Summit this week so I may not be as prompt with responses but I will check messages/posts as often as possible. Thanks for your patience if I'm a little slow to respond for the next few days.
 

Outside somewhere

Overland certified public figure brand ambassador
Ideal height for a tent with the annex attached is between 6' and 6'8" to use full height of the annex. Lower will still work with a bit a slack in the walls...

Is this pretty standard for all the tepui annex's? Is there a better/best way to guy the annex out to get the most usable space and eliminate the extra material from being buffeted in windy conditions should I be at the 6' height? The jeep this is going on is not lifted at this time so I figured a rough estimate with a rack on top to hold the RTT the base of the tent should be at 6'-6'2 (est) I've got a few of those nite ize tent tie outs, misc 550 lne so if there is a better way to tie this out I'm all ears.
 

TwistedGray

Observer
I suspect you guys will be more responsive over the weekend than Tepui :)
...given that they're closed and I am impatient.

Decided that I needed a Tepui tent so I drove up to Santa Cruz, did a bit of work and headed over to the showroom and then warehouse. Shawna (?) was super helpful at the showroom, picked up tent over at the warehouse where the guys bolted it on and gave me two great words of advice. I'll note just one of those, ZIPPING THE COVER IS A TWO HAND JOB. Fingers on the backside of the zipper to prevent material from catching "otherwise you will waste 15-20 minutes of your life getting it to back out". Mention this for a reason, onto that later.

For now, I can't for the life of me figure out how or why the two halves won't seat properly (image). I tried different ladder heights and slightly adjusting the angle, pulling, pushing, a moderate amount of manhandling, but nada. I remember it was super simple in the show room, so I have not a clue what is going on here. I double/triple checked to make sure nothing was obstructing the two ends.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Tepui1.jpg

And now on to the zipper for the cover. I got from the start of the zipper to the first corner and made it around relatively fine (it's a little tight here). I am running now along the "front" and stretch over the window to zip it up while trying to make sure I don't catch material. Reach a little bit out, fingers got out, and WHAM the zipper sucked up a bit of material (the heavy stuff). I spent every bit of the next 30 minutes easing it back out with no major issues (just wasted time and lesson learned). At this point I go back to zipping it closed and the teeth popped out (doh).

So, I unzip to the start and the slider pops off. I looked at it and it appears that when I was trying to get it unstuck it must have managed to widen itself from the different angles of approach I took, so I got it back on the track and get it a little squeeze with pliers. I go back down the first section, around the corner, and super cautiously down the next section. Meanwhile, my wife pointed out that the teeth popped out early on so back off we go. I unzip to the start and again the slider pops off. Now I'm getting a little frustrated, more-so at myself, put it back on and squeeze it down a little more than before. I run it up and down it's own track and all seems well. I line it up, start to zip the first section, make it to the corner and the slider more-or-less splits open (image below). So now I have a broken slider and a cover that won't ... cover.

Annoyed to all hell, and it's 4:10pm so Tepui is obviously closed until Monday. I am hoping I can go down to Beverly's and get a new slider for the zipper because this sucks...thoughts on this as well?
Tepui2.jpg


Other than these two *facepalms* I have had a great experience. The staff at the showroom was amazing, and the guys in the warehouse were super helpful. Unfortunately I seem to just hit a bunch of stupid, dumb luck...and now I have another forum to get addicted on, oy!
 

swcurtis

New member
My wife and I are interested in a tepui RTT but we would like to take a look at on before we purchase. Would anyone know of a place to look at one that is close to Syracuse, UT?
 

fredgoodsell

Adventurer
My wife and I are interested in a tepui RTT but we would like to take a look at on before we purchase. Would anyone know of a place to look at one that is close to Syracuse, UT?
Rack n road in Murray has at least one on display.
Or contact forum member Box Rocket. He is a Tepui rep and lives in your area. He's super friendly and helpful
 

nnnnnate

Adventurer
@twistedgray

I had the same question about the two halves seating and was told that it it normal. Adam said that the canvas is tight and just needs time to relax and then it will seat better. What I did, because I'm impatient, was throw in a tie down strap and when I set up the RTT I strapped my roof rack to one of the rings on the ladder edge and tightened it down a bit. This pulled the two halves together and was pretty solid. I did this for three nights in a row a few weeks ago. I was out last night and had forgotten an extra strap but noticed that while the halves weren't totally seated they were closer than they were a few weeks ago. I'll try to remember the strap in the future but don't expect it'll be needed forever.

As for the zipper, it was pretty tight the first couple times as well but now I don't have any issue getting it started.

Good luck, go out and use it and things should loosen up a bit.
 

TwistedGray

Observer
Thanks, but problem is that the zipper is broken in half so I can't properly close the cover. Hoping they can swap something out next week because otherwise were going to have to run ratchet straps over it, not that appealing, in the interim.
 

Yarjammer

Wellreadneck
I suspect you guys will be more responsive over the weekend than Tepui :)
...given that they're closed and I am impatient.

Decided that I needed a Tepui tent so I drove up to Santa Cruz, did a bit of work and headed over to the showroom and then warehouse. Shawna (?) was super helpful at the showroom, picked up tent over at the warehouse where the guys bolted it on and gave me two great words of advice. I'll note just one of those, ZIPPING THE COVER IS A TWO HAND JOB. Fingers on the backside of the zipper to prevent material from catching "otherwise you will waste 15-20 minutes of your life getting it to back out". Mention this for a reason, onto that later.

For now, I can't for the life of me figure out how or why the two halves won't seat properly (image). I tried different ladder heights and slightly adjusting the angle, pulling, pushing, a moderate amount of manhandling, but nada. I remember it was super simple in the show room, so I have not a clue what is going on here. I double/triple checked to make sure nothing was obstructing the two ends.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Are you referring to the two halves of the floor? If so, sometimes the "top" half bows slightly and does not properly seat in the "bottom" half channel. It doesn't happen every time but it is something to be mindful of. Just lift the top portion up slightly and apply a little pressure on the center of the floor near the join and it should go in just fine.

As far as zippers go... I feel your pain but I'm envious you live close enough to deal with it in person. My annex zipper (tent side) has missing teeth and a broken shoe that they graciously offered to fix under warranty- if I could get it packaged/crated up for the shipping company to receive. I tried to go through the local reseller to handle the warranty or at least give me the shipping materials (removed during an install at their shop and usually discarded) and got no help.
 

TwistedGray

Observer
Okay, so those offering input on the two halves matting here is some useful information from my discussions with the guys at Tepui. In short, they should always mate and you should not have to fight it. With me it is particular to the type of bars on the car. I have a Subaru Crosstrek with Subaru's aero bars. Because of this the fit is slightly off and causes the rear to sit slightly angled...AND because of that it forces a small bow in the center of the two sections (particularly the male side - ladder side). Consequently this mm or so bow does not allow the two ends to happily mate.

So, those who use Subaru aero bars be forewarned that the fit is not good and you should really opt for a different set of bars (read: the square style ones that sit higher). I am working on modifications that allow me to use the aerobars because:
a) I don't need to climb higher
b) I already have the bars
c) I don't want to fork over even more hundreds of dollars for bars to hold the tent

I will follow up if any of my solutions solve the problem, but meanwhile I wanted to inform those that have the aerobars. It will work, but probably not the best idea as you'll wear down this mating area in time at a higher rate than you might otherwise.

ps: You could probably force it into place like what was mentioned with the ratchet straps; however, I am not convinced that is a great approach. You would then be adding stress to where ever you are ratcheting to which is likely some part on the car itself.
 

TwistedGray

Observer
ps: Tepui has been amazing to work with!

@Yarjammer, yes it is one of the main reasons I went with them. If I have any problems I'll just drive there :)
 

Outside somewhere

Overland certified public figure brand ambassador
Okay, so those offering input on the two halves matting here is some useful information from my discussions with the guys at Tepui. In short, they should always mate and you should not have to fight it. With me it is particular to the type of bars on the car. I have a Subaru Crosstrek with Subaru's aero bars. Because of this the fit is slightly off and causes the rear to sit slightly angled...AND because of that it forces a small bow in the center of the two sections (particularly the male side - ladder side). Consequently this mm or so bow does not allow the two ends to happily mate.

So, those who use Subaru aero bars be forewarned that the fit is not good and you should really opt for a different set of bars (read: the square style ones that sit higher). I am working on modifications that allow me to use the aerobars because:
a) I don't need to climb higher
b) I already have the bars
c) I don't want to fork over even more hundreds of dollars for bars to hold the tent

I will follow up if any of my solutions solve the problem, but meanwhile I wanted to inform those that have the aerobars. It will work, but probably not the best idea as you'll wear down this mating area in time at a higher rate than you might otherwise.

ps: You could probably force it into place like what was mentioned with the ratchet straps; however, I am not convinced that is a great approach. You would then be adding stress to where ever you are ratcheting to which is likely some part on the car itself.

Is there any way you can take a couple of pics of what you are talking about? Think I understand what you are talking about and I have the same issue with a tent I just bought but I want to make sure. Thanks.
 

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