The Cactus Red mod thread.

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
DT ProFab is building 10.5" and 11.5" AAM axle diff covers. I was fortunate enough to get a prototype to try on Cactus Red. The shell is 0.250 mild steel plate that is laser cut and CNC bent. The seams in the shell and 0.375 thick flange are TIG welded. After welding they use a flywheel grinder to true up the flange. Fill plug is a 3/4 NPT, drain plug is a 1/2 NPT. I didn't wiegh it, but it's heavy - at least 4 times heavier than the stock cover.

Install is very easy. Loosen the bolts on the stock cover, crack the seal to drain it, remove the stock cover. The gasket is reusable, and it only goes on one way, it is not symmetrical. Clean up the remaining oil, install the new cover, refill. For fill and drain plugs I ordered Gold Plug magnetic plugs - super strong magnets on'm! http://www.goldplug.com/

The stock cover holds 85 oz of 75/90W Synthetic Gear Oil.

I refilled it with Valvoline synthetic, and it took all I had without reaching the fill hole. I could stick my finger in and found the level of oil about 3/8 down, and figured that a gallon of oil was probably enough...

Yes, that's right - it went from 85 oz to 128 oz, and I suspect it would take nearly another quart to get it to the top.

Took some photos of the inside of the diff, the gasket, and the installed cover.
 

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crawler#976

Expedition Leader
Stopped at DT ProFab after work today.

Dave and I spend almost an hour under the truck and discussing the clearance between the spare and the cover. We both agree it will make contact as it is with a 35" spare at stock PW ride height.

The cover I have is a prototype, and as such, it's serving its purpose to find problems. Dave will be redesigning the diff cover to increase clearance between the upper part of the cover and the tire, but retain the extra capacity. The cover was mocked up on bare Power Wagon frame and axle without a spare.

Once they get one done, I'll get it on the truck. For now I'm gonna put the spare in the bed - I don't want to drain it and reinstall the stock cover since I have no place to store the extra $20.00 of 75/90W synthetic gear oil I put in it.
 

SFROMAN

Adventurer
Read through the whole thread. Very smart and effective upgrades. My build is mirroring yours, only my truck is an F250.

Have a few questons if you dont mind me asking.

What size winch do you have on the truck? And do you feel it is enough for your size truck? I am trying to figure out my winch size but I think I want to make mine hitch mountable. That way im able to place in the front or rear or completely off when not in use.

What type of locker do you have? Is it an ARB or a pemanent locker like a detroit?

What do you use to air up?

Does the company that made that cover plan on making one for a Ford F250 axle? What about the front axle?

And last one

Have you felt a need to build some sort of bellly pan? I am planning on building some sort of undercarraige protection.

DEL
 

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
:wings: The Power Wagon package from Dodge offers all of the upgrades you mention as factory items, with the exception of air. For and additional 6K you get:

2.50" factory lift via longer progressive coils and flexible rear 7 leaf springs, 4.56:1 gear ratios, 12000 lb Warn winch, electric lockers front and rear, full skid plates, 1 ton rear axle shafts (1-9/16 dia), electronic disconnecting sway bar, and upgraded Bilstien shocks.

The supplied winch is a Warn 12K that I upgraded to synthetic rope. It is sufficient for the truck. I would not consider a hitch mount for a winch of this size.

First, the winch is heavy, very heavy, well over 100 lbs. I don't believe anyone makes a portable mount for a winch of it's size, and if they did, the combo would be nearly 150 lbs. to do it right. Doesn't sound like fun moving that around!

Secondly, I'm not a fan of hitch mount for any winch of any size, but would consider one with a 12K winch to be especially dangerous. Not all scenarios with a winch lead to a straight pull. Even with multiple pulley blocks, some angle will be present. Consider what a hitch mount uses for attachment - a single 1/2" dia pin in double shear placed in a receiver. Torsion on the mount and pin with a big winch could be disastrous IMO.

Both front and rear AAM differentials come with electric lockers. The factory switch only permits there use in low range, but a simple modification allows them to be used in 2 high and 4 high as well.

The sway bar disconnect is what I use the most. It really helps smooth out the ride.

I carry a ViAir 400P for air. It's a little undersized for 35" tires, but that's OK. It takes about 4 minutes a tire from 18 PSI to 45 PSI, and that gives me time to take a look at the truck after a trail ride.

DT ProFab builds Dodge parts (IE: Dodge Truck ProFab).

Mark

EDIT: I forgot to mention that since it's all factory installed, it's all covered under the Bumper to Bumper LIFETIME warranty I got with the truck :victory:
 
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crawler#976

Expedition Leader
I used a single pole double throw center off switch - ON OFF ON for my lights.

I have my switch setup to use the dimmer switch as one position, the other is on at anytime. For a 2009 Dodge Power Wagon I tapped into the white with green strip wire on the headlight harness.

Since the circuit is interrupted by the switch I used a single wire out to the relays. I used two 30A relays on my truck. My initial lights were four 100W Hella's, so I used one relay for each pair. With the HID's I could have used a single 30A relay for all four since the total draw for all four is less than two of the 100W lights.

My diagram works for me - your results may vary :sombrero:

I also included a diagram of a single pole single throw switch thru a relay for comparison
 

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coder

New member
Make sure that the level of the gear oil does not go higher than the bottom of the axle shafts otherwise the whole foaming thing starts to happen.
 
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SFROMAN

Adventurer
Sir,
Thanks for the speedy and detailed response to my questions. The Power wagon is definetly a nice truck with all those features from the factory. Your response about a hitch mounted winch of that size makes sense, so I will be mounting mine behind the stock bumper if I can if not on some sort of bumper like an ARB.
 

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
Found a used 50 Qt ARB Fridge/Freezer here on the Expo!

Finished up the install this evening. Used an ARB wiring loom w/ Hella power port for power. Made a 1/2 plywood platform that bolts to the existing seam mounting holes. Really looking forward to using it!
 

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GTABurnout

Explorer
Stupid question....

I see your in AZ so figure you may know. I noticed the Extinguisher in the cab of your truck. Dod this live in your truck or something you put in for trips? I want to carry an extinguisher but I am afraid of what will happen to it in AZ 120+ days in side a truck where it gets 150+.

Also nice build I plan to steal some ideas for my diesel. And man I wish they made a diesel powerwagon....
 

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
The extinguisher lives in the truck 24/7. We don't get the same high temps you do, and in all the rigs I've owned over the year, it's never been a problem.

Mark
 

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
Decided to make some removable flappage for towing the StarCraft RT10.

The mount is bolted to the existing bumper mounting brackets using the factory hardware. The flap is retained by a pair of 0.250 pins. Two 24" x 18" flap provides good coverage from flying debris.

Everything went well on our maiden voyage with the new to us trailer. It tracked well, towed easily, and sure beats the heck out of the tent/platform combo we used previously.
 

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Any new mods? Looks like I'm going to go with the DT Profab driveability kit for the MDR. I've gotten some great responses about different setups from posts here, including yours, but the DT seems to offer everything I'm looking to do for a truck with 218k on the odo. I know you've spoken highly of them.

How has the carpet kit/bed platform worked out for you? :sombrero:
 

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