What I learned
What I learned along the way:
1. Don't believe (almost) anything you see on the news:
The truth of traveling in muslim countries and even recent war zones was nothing like the way the news and state department paints the picture. Of course, the state department information is not false, but so conservative it would make traveling anywhere seem unreasonably dangerous. As Americans, we were treated with respect and interest by everyone we met. From Turkey to the most conservative village in Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, the people were wonderful. Of course this does not eliminate the need for proper planning and research, especially from people living in those countries or with direct knowledge. We had resources (many) that we consulted with throughout the trip, especially about Osh and Jalalabad.
2. It is better to go underprepared or with a cheap vehicle (or no vehicle), than to not go at all:
We encountered Russian hitchhikers that traveled with NO MONEY AT ALL! Literally, they traveled with only their wits and a few days of hard work per week to make ends meet. They were seeing the world because it was important to them, and the method they used to see it was a reflection of their desire to explore no mater their budget. I was humbled by the fortitude and dedication of these travelers. The route was also filled with adventure cyclists, who traveled with little money and were able to live on as little as $100-150 per month. Some were traveling around the world with a budget of $10,000. If you have the goal of serious international travel, it is completely possible despite your budget - it just might require a change in the mode of travel.
3. Mongolia:
Mongolia is absolute magic. See it before everything changes. They are laying asphalt in nearly every direction out from UB.
There are a few ways to do that:
Rent a Russian UAZ "jeep" for about $80 per day. Do it as self-drive and just know you are going to break down in some fashion. Make sure the truck has five good tires and the spare is as good as the four on the ground. Make sure it has a lug wrench, jack and pump. Then head west out of UB on the Northern Route or East into the most remote areas of the country.
Rent a moto (this is how I will do it next time): There are a few moto rental companies in Mongolia
Take a tour with Overland Experts: Bruce and his team have been traveling to Mongolia for years, and have the program dialed.
http://www.overlandexperts.com/recreational/travel/mongolia.php
4. Breaking down is actually quite fun:
We have always over-prepared for trips in the past, and as a result, we have NEVER had a single disabling failure on a vehicle in 15+ years of travel, including every continent except Antarctica. I have never used a spare tire in nearly 100,000 miles of travel. Oddly, and despite our best attempts at going "gangster" on this trip, we still completed the journey without a single mechanical, and with no flats. BUT!!!! We traveled with another car for the Mongolia leg of the journey, a Suzuki Swift, which is absolutely ill-suited for every single road we drove. As a result, the fuel tank was punctured twice, there were at least five flats, three busted rims, the oil pan was crushed-in (the sump guard was ripped off somewhere along the way), the transmission case was cracked and the front strut exploded. As a result, we searched bazaars for tires, banged out rims with borrowed sledge hammers, shared vodka with truckers, were invited into yurts, met 9-year olds that could operate a set of tire irons better than me (by a wide margin), and generally limped, towed and coasted a vehicle across a country - what an absolute blast!
The indispensable compressor saving the Swift again. We used it another dozen times for locals.
Sometimes, there are no roads - at all
After another hole in the fuel tank