The Restoration And Build Thread For My 1992 FJ80
- Thread starter Summit Cruisers Jr
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Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Thanks!
Thanks! Maybe some day...
Didn't get a whole lot done on the my truck this weekend. I moved home for the summer last Friday, and started prepping for a possible trip some friends and I might take out to Utah/Colorado. With that in mind, I've been doing some prep work on it to make sure the trip goes smoothly.
I dropped the driveshafts and greased them and the ujoints. Then put some fresh 15w-40 oil in and started working on the more serious issues.
First was to deal with the trailer wiring 3-2 wire converter that had stopped sending power to my left rear turn signal in the bumper wing. I put a new one in and all is good.
Since I got stuck in the river and the truck sat in sand and water for 6 or so hours, there has been a lot of noise coming from the pulleys and belts. My dad happened to find a 91 Cruiser in a parts yard and was able to scavenge some pulleys off of it.
Definitely not good.
None of the old pulleys spun very long and all made noise.
When moving the power steering pump out of the way to get to one of the pulleys, the return line split and started leaking. I recently replaced the outgoing line and that was a huge nightmare that involved taking the radiator out and I feared that was in store for this line. However, that wasn't the case and a trip to Autozone and I had a new line that was just slightly different in diameter. My dad bought several filters for powersteering pumps so we also put that in.
I had painted the bumper wing light holders to match my wheels a couple of weekends ago, but the look was getting on my nerves. I was between taking my headlights out and painting the surrounds in graphite gray or painting the bumper wing pieces in black. I decided to do that. I think I'm going to tint the lower valence lights a little bit to make them not so clear/chrome-looking. I wish they had never been on the 80, but oh well.
Something in my air horn solenoid also stopped working and my air horns are no longer getting power when I hit my horns to unleash air so that is something I plan to work on in the next day or so. It's hard to check for power by myself.
I also need to grind the welds off that hold my bumper on and remove the Badlands winch. A couple weekends ago I was helping my dad around the house and needed to use the winch. I was pulling the line out and all of a sudden the winch just started clicking. Opened up the solenoid box and everything looked brand new. I checked for power and everything was working as it should so I believe the problem is in the winch itself.
I also need to get some materials to finish reinforcing the receiver hitch to a frame crossmember.
My brother's LC got some 315/75/16 Mastercraft MXTs after one of the old Nittos almost blew. Ride greatly improved. Also put on the replacement valence and bumper since his wreck.
Can't have that nasty factory bumper hanging down.
A cutting wheel, flap disk, and 30 minutes or so of time later
After taking his old valence out, we figured out we would not be able to put the 11" light bars in the valence and have it look good so we will not end up doing that on mine.
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Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
After dealing with unbelievably slow windows for years, a weird warped outside run, and a wind noise that recently appeared, I decided to replace the front window runs. While I did this, I also rebuilt my window motors according to the guide my dad posted several months ago on IH8MUD which is posted below.
Here's how the old run looked. No idea how it got that warped.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/got-slow-windows-heres-the-fix.840926/
I ordered runs for both front windows. Came out to be $145 shipped
Driver's is Part Number: 68151-60010
Passenger's Part Number: 68141-60010
It was very simple to pull them out. I just grabbed at the bottom and worked it loose until I could get it to pull out.
The new ones have this foam in the center. Not sure what year they switched to that, but mine didn't have it. I'm sure it's there to help wind noise when the window is fully closed for a better seal.
With it all done, my windows will roll down and back up in just under 10 seconds.
Here's how the old run looked. No idea how it got that warped.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/got-slow-windows-heres-the-fix.840926/
I ordered runs for both front windows. Came out to be $145 shipped
Driver's is Part Number: 68151-60010
Passenger's Part Number: 68141-60010
It was very simple to pull them out. I just grabbed at the bottom and worked it loose until I could get it to pull out.
The new ones have this foam in the center. Not sure what year they switched to that, but mine didn't have it. I'm sure it's there to help wind noise when the window is fully closed for a better seal.
With it all done, my windows will roll down and back up in just under 10 seconds.
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Bretthn
Explorer
Still loving the thread. You got me motivated to clean the window tracks and lube them with some silicone spray.
I also ran a 50 amp circuit in the garage for my new to me welder and may copy your swingout in the factory bumper. Of course mine is on a 100 series but it looks like the layout under the bumper cover is very similar to the 80.
I also ran a 50 amp circuit in the garage for my new to me welder and may copy your swingout in the factory bumper. Of course mine is on a 100 series but it looks like the layout under the bumper cover is very similar to the 80.
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Awesome! Interested to see how it turns out if you do one! Let me know if you have any questions
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Thanks!
Trying my luck with another Badland's 12,000 pound winch. I'm going to open this one up and look at adding more waterproofing to it. I also plan clock the winch so the handle is on the side instead of it facing upwards on the top which I believe allowed water to enter and sieze the last one.
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
The other day I stated building a new center console. I have really been wanting a better more useful design than the single compartment style that came in my 1992. I could have bought the dual lid from a new 80 series, but they are still awkward to use for an armrest.
I wasn't sure what material I was going to do. I was between MDF or steel. I decided to go with steel like a Tuffy. They use 16 gauge on the walls with 1/8" for the lid. My dad had some left over 12 gauge in the attic so I am using that for as much as I can.
I started with a cardboard mock up. This took several evenings to get most of the basic measurements and angles that I wanted. I have seen Tuffy consoles modified to fit in the 80 series, but the fitment of the front cup holders just looked a little out of place.
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These are the biggest issues that I would like to fix.
1. Lack of an arm rest
2. Improved storage space
3. More CUPHOLDERS!
4. An iPhone mount
5. An organized rocker switch panel with labeled rocker switches
6. A secure and lockable lid
I'm making the console wider, but still tapering it into the shifter surround trim so it will leave plenty of room to operate the parking brake.
First mockup in the works. This was probably the third version. It shows a basic layout for everything.
I plan to add a color matched leather top pad much like the Tuffy's.
I started with the passenger side as that is the side that has to conform to the rear heater. It took awhile to get it to fit snug without being to snug. Being able to remove the console without pulling off the shifter surround that it slides into is a big priority.
This is where I was trying to curve the top to match the curvature of hole it enters, but it's just too complex and I don't have the metal shaping skills.
Here is both sides completed and being used to mock up the piece that will fit between them.
I wasn't sure what material I was going to do. I was between MDF or steel. I decided to go with steel like a Tuffy. They use 16 gauge on the walls with 1/8" for the lid. My dad had some left over 12 gauge in the attic so I am using that for as much as I can.
I started with a cardboard mock up. This took several evenings to get most of the basic measurements and angles that I wanted. I have seen Tuffy consoles modified to fit in the 80 series, but the fitment of the front cup holders just looked a little out of place.
-
These are the biggest issues that I would like to fix.
1. Lack of an arm rest
2. Improved storage space
3. More CUPHOLDERS!
4. An iPhone mount
5. An organized rocker switch panel with labeled rocker switches
6. A secure and lockable lid
I'm making the console wider, but still tapering it into the shifter surround trim so it will leave plenty of room to operate the parking brake.
First mockup in the works. This was probably the third version. It shows a basic layout for everything.
I plan to add a color matched leather top pad much like the Tuffy's.
I started with the passenger side as that is the side that has to conform to the rear heater. It took awhile to get it to fit snug without being to snug. Being able to remove the console without pulling off the shifter surround that it slides into is a big priority.
This is where I was trying to curve the top to match the curvature of hole it enters, but it's just too complex and I don't have the metal shaping skills.
Here is both sides completed and being used to mock up the piece that will fit between them.
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Bretthn
Explorer
Very nice, can't wait to see it finished. I made a wooden one for an 80s S10 Blazer years ago in shop class and it came out like crap. After adding padding and vinyl to match the interior it covered up all my imperfections and looked half way decent. I didn't and still don't have the fabricating skills that you have.
Beautiful truck!! You certainly have skills, and it sounds like a dad who likes to work on things with you when you need a hand. That is so awesome
Wish my old man had been that into trucks when I was your age. I wouldn't have had to learn so many lessons the hard way
Again, beautiful truck. I LOVE the retro color and styling.
Wish my old man had been that into trucks when I was your age. I wouldn't have had to learn so many lessons the hard way
Again, beautiful truck. I LOVE the retro color and styling.
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Thanks you guys! Definitely awesome to be able to work so closely with my dad on this truck. Most of it probably wouldn't be near as nice without his help.
I got all the materials in. The only things that I should have left to buy are some longer bolts to hold the console down in the middle, a piano hinge, and have an upholstery shop make a pad with matching leather.
This has finally allowed me to continue on this project. I was bending everything with a vice and random pieces of angle iron and square tubing, but this has made it much easier and precise.
Once I had to floor bent up, I rebent the console sides and the backs of the sides to allow the back to have a flat place to mount.
I set everything back in and marked roughly how everything compared to the floor. Then I measured and started tack welding the sides onto the floor. It's pretty awesome seeing it stand on its own now. The only kind of annoying thing is that most of the metal I used is slightly warped and it doesn't contour to my floor exactly so I'm going to have to fill the edges between the floor and sides with something.
The hardest part will be making the top piece that covers the top.
I got all the materials in. The only things that I should have left to buy are some longer bolts to hold the console down in the middle, a piano hinge, and have an upholstery shop make a pad with matching leather.
This has finally allowed me to continue on this project. I was bending everything with a vice and random pieces of angle iron and square tubing, but this has made it much easier and precise.
Once I had to floor bent up, I rebent the console sides and the backs of the sides to allow the back to have a flat place to mount.
I set everything back in and marked roughly how everything compared to the floor. Then I measured and started tack welding the sides onto the floor. It's pretty awesome seeing it stand on its own now. The only kind of annoying thing is that most of the metal I used is slightly warped and it doesn't contour to my floor exactly so I'm going to have to fill the edges between the floor and sides with something.
The hardest part will be making the top piece that covers the top.
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
I ran out of gas in the welder the other day, but I did manage to add some more welds on the inside. With clamps, the console comes together nicely and I can't wait to weld it up for good. I started making another cardboard top piece.
When I had 6 or so inches of water in the front floor boards I took out most of the nasty water-logged insulation and figured I would eventually replace it with something. Well after noticing the insane heat coming from underneath the factory console, I decided to look around locally for a Dynamat alternative. I didn't want to pay their expensive price for such a small area, and I didn't want to wait a week for it to show up.
I went to Lowe's and found "Peel and Seal". Looking it over I was a little bit skeptical as it just didn't feel right. Felt too thin with a tar like backing that I read melts when it gets hot.
Then I went to Ace and found "Wrap-on Insul-foil". It pretty much looked like everything Dynamat is but at $25 for a 12" by 15' roll so I figured why not.
I covered both passenger and driver floor boards, the area underneath the driver's seat, and underneath the console. I still have plenty left so I will likely add more in other places later on.
Some new Oem rear brake shoes also came in today. A master cylinder rebuild kit is also on the way since my brakes have been anything but great since going through two brake boosters, using raybestos brake shoes, and putting on the 35s.
When I had 6 or so inches of water in the front floor boards I took out most of the nasty water-logged insulation and figured I would eventually replace it with something. Well after noticing the insane heat coming from underneath the factory console, I decided to look around locally for a Dynamat alternative. I didn't want to pay their expensive price for such a small area, and I didn't want to wait a week for it to show up.
I went to Lowe's and found "Peel and Seal". Looking it over I was a little bit skeptical as it just didn't feel right. Felt too thin with a tar like backing that I read melts when it gets hot.
Then I went to Ace and found "Wrap-on Insul-foil". It pretty much looked like everything Dynamat is but at $25 for a 12" by 15' roll so I figured why not.
I covered both passenger and driver floor boards, the area underneath the driver's seat, and underneath the console. I still have plenty left so I will likely add more in other places later on.
Some new Oem rear brake shoes also came in today. A master cylinder rebuild kit is also on the way since my brakes have been anything but great since going through two brake boosters, using raybestos brake shoes, and putting on the 35s.
Summit Cruisers Jr
Well-known member
Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild
Lately my brakes have been performing at less than ideal levels, and good brakes are a priority over a console so I've been spending time working on them instead.
I did new shoes in the rear drums last week and adjusted my pedal to engage the brakes earlier as they needed to be pushed almost to the floor for any response. This is after bleeding the brakes and LSPV at least 100 times. I'm not sure if it was the old re manufactured brake booster or a gunked up master cylinder, but there was a point where the pedal would stick half way down through its stroke.
Ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit, and because my booster has a warranty at O'reiley's I ordered a replacement for it just to be sure.
After pulling out all of the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, I noticed there was A LOT of gunk in the bottom. Especially considering there is a filter over it.
The reservoir detaches by a phillips screw on the side.
Then remove the c clip on the inside. It holds the first piston and spring in. Then there is a small bolt/screw with a copper washer on the bottom that holds the second spring and piston in place.
It's a messy job. Even after all the fluid seems drained out, more comes out as the pistons are removed. Then I bench bled it to keep a lot of air from getting into the brake system. I used this brass rod to push in on the pistons probably about 40 times until no bubbles were exiting the clear tubes.
Lately my brakes have been performing at less than ideal levels, and good brakes are a priority over a console so I've been spending time working on them instead.
I did new shoes in the rear drums last week and adjusted my pedal to engage the brakes earlier as they needed to be pushed almost to the floor for any response. This is after bleeding the brakes and LSPV at least 100 times. I'm not sure if it was the old re manufactured brake booster or a gunked up master cylinder, but there was a point where the pedal would stick half way down through its stroke.
Ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit, and because my booster has a warranty at O'reiley's I ordered a replacement for it just to be sure.
After pulling out all of the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, I noticed there was A LOT of gunk in the bottom. Especially considering there is a filter over it.
The reservoir detaches by a phillips screw on the side.
Then remove the c clip on the inside. It holds the first piston and spring in. Then there is a small bolt/screw with a copper washer on the bottom that holds the second spring and piston in place.
It's a messy job. Even after all the fluid seems drained out, more comes out as the pistons are removed. Then I bench bled it to keep a lot of air from getting into the brake system. I used this brass rod to push in on the pistons probably about 40 times until no bubbles were exiting the clear tubes.