Overland Hadley
on a journey
Sure.
I am working on cleaning them up, their life has been one of canoe camping and cooking over the open fire is the norm. So far I have the plates cleaned, and they are beautiful.
The TARDIS - A Four Wheel Camper Build
- Thread starter Overland Hadley
- Start date
Sure.
I am working on cleaning them up, their life has been one of canoe camping and cooking over the open fire is the norm. So far I have the plates cleaned, and they are beautiful.
O.H.
I have on order from Stan a Kestral Hawk(tundra) in basically the same configuration that you are speaking about. I settled on the shorter original cabover shell model with a few options. I am having them install the propane compartment on the left (drivers side) of the rear door. I am also having them install an outside shower door only and a small porthole window towards the front on the drivers side.That way I have visability on that side if in stealth mode. I also decided to go for the couch dinetteset on the passenger side and the 5 ft roof Thule racks installed at the factory. I want to avoid drilling any part of this aluminum shell. I will put a marine deep cycle battery in the back and basically use 12 volt devices. Using a 12 volt relay close to the battery under the hood and protecting the cable coming back to the marine battery in back with a 100 amp breaker, I can flip a switch from the cab and recharge the marine battery as I drive down the road. I will use a green lighted switch in the cab to make sure the truck battrey it is disconnected from the camper battery when I park. The cable can come in through the wooden door where the tie downs go. Using LED lighting there should not be much currrent draw at all. I put firestone airbags on the rear and I will be getting the camper sometime in September. I will probably use some of everyones ideas on this post. Thanks
I have on order from Stan a Kestral Hawk(tundra) in basically the same configuration that you are speaking about. I settled on the shorter original cabover shell model with a few options. I am having them install the propane compartment on the left (drivers side) of the rear door. I am also having them install an outside shower door only and a small porthole window towards the front on the drivers side.That way I have visability on that side if in stealth mode. I also decided to go for the couch dinetteset on the passenger side and the 5 ft roof Thule racks installed at the factory. I want to avoid drilling any part of this aluminum shell. I will put a marine deep cycle battery in the back and basically use 12 volt devices. Using a 12 volt relay close to the battery under the hood and protecting the cable coming back to the marine battery in back with a 100 amp breaker, I can flip a switch from the cab and recharge the marine battery as I drive down the road. I will use a green lighted switch in the cab to make sure the truck battrey it is disconnected from the camper battery when I park. The cable can come in through the wooden door where the tie downs go. Using LED lighting there should not be much currrent draw at all. I put firestone airbags on the rear and I will be getting the camper sometime in September. I will probably use some of everyones ideas on this post. Thanks
Overland Hadley
on a journey
c-z
Congrats on ordering a FWC!
Couple questions. Why did you choose the shorter cabover? Tell me about the porthole window option, how much was it and how big is the window?
Also, you will want to have the cables coming into the camper through a dedicated and sealed hole. Mice will be running around in the bed of the truck while you are camping.
Congrats on ordering a FWC!
Couple questions. Why did you choose the shorter cabover? Tell me about the porthole window option, how much was it and how big is the window?
Also, you will want to have the cables coming into the camper through a dedicated and sealed hole. Mice will be running around in the bed of the truck while you are camping.
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The window is $175 and it is oval shaped I believe. I ordered the one that opens for the same price, probably without a screen. I will make something to keep mosquitoes out. It is about about a foot wide, I think. Large enough for some air and visability in the middle of the night.
I ordered the shorter version for basically the same reasons as you. as the journey will normally be alone and I do not like the huge overhang of the queen size bed over the cab. I will probably just use the 30 inch bed without pulling out the inside extension and am thinking about your suggestion of the thermarest dreamtime pad.
The cable through the wooden tie down door will have to be a small hole with a rubber grommet around it. I am just trying to eliminate drilling into the aluminum shell as alot of used ones have this problem. The floor of the tundra has water drainage holes in the front and I will run the cables through there(with a grommet and ground the negative on the frame close to the rear battery. The larger cables let the battery charge quickly.
I ordered the shorter version for basically the same reasons as you. as the journey will normally be alone and I do not like the huge overhang of the queen size bed over the cab. I will probably just use the 30 inch bed without pulling out the inside extension and am thinking about your suggestion of the thermarest dreamtime pad.
The cable through the wooden tie down door will have to be a small hole with a rubber grommet around it. I am just trying to eliminate drilling into the aluminum shell as alot of used ones have this problem. The floor of the tundra has water drainage holes in the front and I will run the cables through there(with a grommet and ground the negative on the frame close to the rear battery. The larger cables let the battery charge quickly.
Might I suggest powering the switch, and thus relay as well, off an ignition hot line if you want to really make sure things are disconnected when you are parked.
Just run the cables through the wooden floor pack area inside the truck bed, you don't drill the aluminum that way and it is shielded from the weather. Those tied down doors are flimsy for starters and having a cable through it might make it difficult to slide out of the way to actually access the tie downs.
Also it is a preference things but better practice is to actually run that negative line back to the truck battery rather than using the truck frame as the conductor, aka what some people call "grounding" (however it really isn't a ground in the sense of stray current protection like in household wiring, its actually completing the circuit using the truck frame).
I think there is sufficient metal in that truck frame to make for a pretty good conductor. I want to make it a "cleaner" install and not have an extra cable running all the way to the front of the truck. I could use an ignition hot....I will wait until I get the camper to decide where to drill a hole. You may be right about that flimsy door and then opening it while a cable is run through it. I wont do what the owner of the used 2001 Granby did that my brother bought a year ago. The previous owner drilled a 1/2 hole through the aluminum on the drivers side for the #12 gauge wire and then wired it with a house duplex box with a house wall switch.
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I don't think it is any "cleaner" at all to only chase/route one wire as opposed to two. In my opinion the only reason people use the frame is just to save wiring cost. It can often be plague my corrosion issues, etc. as well. All of which is going to increase resistance and voltage drop, not a big of an issue with a low draw item but I'd personally want maximum performance out of my battery lines. Well that is my personal take on it, enough said.
Yeah the slider doors are just 1/8" plywood in plastic tracks (assuming that haven't changed them in recent years). Popping a hole in the plywood in the portion sitting in the bed wouldn't concern me (that is actually how mine is wired), it is shielded form the elements just fine and caulk seals it up completely.
Stan@FourWheel
Explorer
We did change the access port hole design a couple of years ago.
The old style like you mentioned worked ok, but was a bit filmsy.
The new access port hole covers we are using now are at least 1/4" thick, attached with spring loaded hinges, and have a foam weather seal around the edges.
They seem to be working quite nicely.
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The old style like you mentioned worked ok, but was a bit filmsy.
The new access port hole covers we are using now are at least 1/4" thick, attached with spring loaded hinges, and have a foam weather seal around the edges.
They seem to be working quite nicely.
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Attachments
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Pods
I will consider what you have said. It would eliminate two lugs which as you said could be an area of high resistance. I was planning on using star washers underneath the lugs to make good contact with the frame but I do have the extra cable.There is also a quick disconnect connector for larger cable that can handle the amperage. That would make it easier for some to remove the camper from the truck.
I will consider what you have said. It would eliminate two lugs which as you said could be an area of high resistance. I was planning on using star washers underneath the lugs to make good contact with the frame but I do have the extra cable.There is also a quick disconnect connector for larger cable that can handle the amperage. That would make it easier for some to remove the camper from the truck.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
The new hinged doors are a huge improvement from the old sliding kind.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
Thank you.
Sometimes I feel like I am just a poor rambling man, waiting to earn enough cash to order his camper.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
Toilet System
A Thetford toilet would be convenient, but they are not simple or lightweight. So I am going to stick with my PETT toilet system.
I have used the PETT and Wagg Bags for a few trips now and have not had any problems with them. Only inconvenience is the emergency mid day stop (I have a cranky gut) and that can be a real hassle with the PETT. I considered going with a Thetford for this reason alone, but I could not justify the dedicated space in the camper or the extra weight it would entail. They also need to be emptied into a real toilet, where the Wag Bags can be dropped at any trash can. (Buy at wallmart - Return to wallmart)
Also the PETT can be used outside of the camper, I find this preferable, even when traveling solo. Of course it can also be used inside during inclement weather, but with not having a wet bowl the smell can be powerful.
I take an extra can of cat litter powder, to supplement the Poo Powder. And it seems to work just as good, if not better. In fact I am considering just making my own Wagg Bag- a trash bag, a freezer zip lock and some cat litter powder. Would be a lot cheaper, and should work fine as people throw out diapers all the time.
So thats how it goes down when I am camping.
Wagg bags and the PETT toilet are now sold by Cleanwaste.
A Thetford toilet would be convenient, but they are not simple or lightweight. So I am going to stick with my PETT toilet system.
I have used the PETT and Wagg Bags for a few trips now and have not had any problems with them. Only inconvenience is the emergency mid day stop (I have a cranky gut) and that can be a real hassle with the PETT. I considered going with a Thetford for this reason alone, but I could not justify the dedicated space in the camper or the extra weight it would entail. They also need to be emptied into a real toilet, where the Wag Bags can be dropped at any trash can. (Buy at wallmart - Return to wallmart)
Also the PETT can be used outside of the camper, I find this preferable, even when traveling solo. Of course it can also be used inside during inclement weather, but with not having a wet bowl the smell can be powerful.
I take an extra can of cat litter powder, to supplement the Poo Powder. And it seems to work just as good, if not better. In fact I am considering just making my own Wagg Bag- a trash bag, a freezer zip lock and some cat litter powder. Would be a lot cheaper, and should work fine as people throw out diapers all the time.
So thats how it goes down when I am camping.
Wagg bags and the PETT toilet are now sold by Cleanwaste.
I've been wondering about the dometic 970 series toilets for my build.
At the moment for #2 where a cat hole isn't feasible and and outhouse isn't around I just used a couple gal bucket with a trash bag in it and cat litter. An actual seat seems like a nice prospect.
P.S. Don't ever drink out of the orange nalgene in my camper.
At the moment for #2 where a cat hole isn't feasible and and outhouse isn't around I just used a couple gal bucket with a trash bag in it and cat litter. An actual seat seems like a nice prospect.
P.S. Don't ever drink out of the orange nalgene in my camper.
ExpoMike
Well-known member
The PETT system (or similar) works great over any liquid system. Easy to dispose of, as trash cans are much more available when traveling then toilets that you can dump a liquid system. We have been using our PETT for camping over the last 4 years. Very happy with it.
Dave Bennett
Adventurist
Agreed. There's a reason the USMC chose these for use in remote FOB's overseas, field sanitation doesn't get any easier than these. It's what I use in my truck, although I use the wag bags with a hassock toilet which is really just a fancy bucket. Lightweight and does the job.