Overland Hadley
on a journey
Yes, the Wave works at altitude. This is one of the main reasons I chose it over a Buddy heater.
The TARDIS - A Four Wheel Camper Build
- Thread starter Overland Hadley
- Start date
Yes, the Wave works at altitude. This is one of the main reasons I chose it over a Buddy heater.
Carlyle
Explorer
I'm pretty sure Thule stopped making that table a few years ago, as I went to get a second one for parts and couldn't find one. One the hand, the table is heavy and the plastic top warps over time. I'm currently replacing the top on mine with oak slats.
Carlyle
Explorer
I had the wave in my last camper up to 10,600 feet and it worked just fine.
Carlyle
Explorer
For what it is worth, I ordered my 2011 Hawk shell with a few options. I had the propane storage installed in the rear to the left of the doorway. The storage locker for propane is made out of flexible plastic , almost like tupperware is made out of.The material is probably 1/16 of an inch thick. It is totally sealed to the wood at the base and just has an outside door that has ventilation louvers. I cut out about a 6 inch hole in the top of the plastic so I could stand upright a regular 20 lb propane bottle. I turn the valve off and on with every use but I have yet to seal that top opening I need to get to this valve so I am not sure exactly how I will do this yet. Anyway this plastic box seems like it would contain propane vapor if it was sealed properly. My wave 3 would not work well at all at 10000 feet in Colorado last summer. Taking my 3 bag military sleeping bag system with me this year.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
Thats interesting.
So the factory locker is airtight from the camper, but would in no way provide any protection if there was a propane fire at the tank or an explosion. Not that is should, just interesting to hear how lightweight it is.
Thanks for the info.
I think the RV guy I spoke with said that the Canadian Highway Safety act requires 3/16 galvanized, so if there was an explosion or fire, that would probably help prevent it from spreading into the camper. I can't see why the hatches used to install the turnbuckles could not also be used as vents for placing a propane locker under the front seat. I just ordered some of that iCore II from FloorsToYourHome.com so once I get that installed and get the couch/bed back together, I'll take it over to the RV shop and see what they say. Did you just drill right through the floor when you installed your cabinets/sink/stove? If not, maybe I should install the couch supports before I lay the flooring. Also, what did you use for underlay? I think this stuff comes with some rubbery underlay stuff but I think I remember you using reflectix. Is that right?
I think any vapor that could leak would pretty much exit out those louvers. That should prevent an explosion. I had an older (1984) Palomino with a wooden box built into the side from the factory and it had copper tubing running through the walls of the box going up to the stove. This defeated the airtight purpose also but it seemed to work ok. I guess the main thing is to check connections to the bottle once in awhile and be aware of any "funny smells". Also turning the bottle off whenever it is not in use. I still need to make my storage airtight but I haven't addressed it just yet. It is really handy to be able to use a regular 20 lb bottle so a refill can be purchased along the way.
I'd also expect propane boxes to be a bit beefier. So a question I have is: do tanks ever "blow" and release propane at high pressure (I'm sure it happens more than never, but is it extremely rare)? I assume that slower leaks are common enough that you absolutely have to account for them.
Of course, even if something is unlikely, the consequences can be catastrophic...
It seems like the factory setups usually have plenty of venting, so any high-pressure blowout of the tank would get cleared out through louvered doors and holes in the bottom. But with a DIY box (with let's say 1 inch of venting per 7lbs of propane) I don't know what would happen in a high pressure release.
Of course, even if something is unlikely, the consequences can be catastrophic...
It seems like the factory setups usually have plenty of venting, so any high-pressure blowout of the tank would get cleared out through louvered doors and holes in the bottom. But with a DIY box (with let's say 1 inch of venting per 7lbs of propane) I don't know what would happen in a high pressure release.
I am not a propane expert but here is my 2 cents worth. This is old news but the newer style 20 lb tanks have a float assembly in them like your toilet water supply. When this float reaches the 80% full mark, the float closes so no more propane can be put in the bottle. This leaves room for expansion so if a bottle sets out in the sun all day or whatever,it should not create pressures that would cause an explosion. I haven't heard of any catastrophic leaks from a bottle just setting there like outside of lots of convenience stores and home depots, etc. Of course the bottle needs to be used standing upright so that you are just using gas instead of liquid propane. I am sure there are others who know more about this subject out there. I refill the smaller Coleman type bottles from a 20 lb bottle with an adapter bought at harbor freight. I refrigerate the small bottles in my freezer overnight and turn the 20 lb bottle upside down, outside of course, (to get liquid) with the adapter and small bottle attached then I turn on the valve and let it fill. It works very well, eliminating throwing away those small bottles after use.
ETAV8R
Founder of D.E.R.P.
The new struts came, so I installed them, complete with French SS twisted shackles. The shackles are captive pin, so they are easy to use.
Yes, the struts are also SS. This is from my last post.
Not sure how I missed the roof mount pic. I thought you had the bimimi fittings up there too. I'm having a hard time wrapping my mind around how the top system works. Looks like it isn't fixed and can allow movement which seems counter-productive to the lifting strut purpose.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
It would be better to have the bimini fitting on the top as well.
I wanted a shackle at the top so I could hang stuff from it. I also wanted a low profile on the top fitting, so when I inevitable hit my head on it, it would be a little less painful.
But I would recommend doing the bimini fitting I have on the bottom at the top as well, as long as you are not worried about hitting your head on the pointier fitting.
ETAV8R
Founder of D.E.R.P.
So today I went about working on finally putting my table in. I originally thought about putting it on the passenger side close to the door as you have shown in these pics. I'm guessing you did not use the wood spacer plate behind in this spot due to the small shelf in the storage area. Did you utilize any of the factory screws to help secure the mounting plate for the table?
On the drivers side I'm guessing you used the plastic wedges to clear the overhang of the lid for the side storage.
Do you find that with the table mounted on the passenger side back by the door it has enough reach to come across to the drivers side? I know my configuration is different than yours. After running into issues with the plate mounted near the door I considered between the small doors for the turn buckles but will have to use a spacer to clear the 1/4 or so ledge for the storage area up top.
Other ideas while I have the camper off are doing the underside insulation. What type of screws did you use to attach your insulation?
On the drivers side I'm guessing you used the plastic wedges to clear the overhang of the lid for the side storage.
Do you find that with the table mounted on the passenger side back by the door it has enough reach to come across to the drivers side? I know my configuration is different than yours. After running into issues with the plate mounted near the door I considered between the small doors for the turn buckles but will have to use a spacer to clear the 1/4 or so ledge for the storage area up top.
Here is the mock-up of the main cabinetry parts. Remember this is minimalist to save weight.
You will notice that I changed the layout slightly. I decided to move the propane locker to the far side on top of the step. I know this is moving some weight away from low and center, but it seemed worth it to me. It allows me to add a second jerry can water tank, and it also allows the storage tote to be sideways which is much better for the interior layout.
The cabinets line up exactly with the edge of the extended bed. Things like this make me happy.
Other ideas while I have the camper off are doing the underside insulation. What type of screws did you use to attach your insulation?
Overland Hadley
on a journey
Correct, passenger side mount does not have spacers and the drivers side does. But on the drivers side I made some aluminum spacers instead of using the plastic or wood ones that came with the table.
Both mounts are through bolted.
With the original table, it did not have good reach from the passenger side mount to the drivers side bench. But now with table V3 (sized at 15x30) the reach is good. I feel I have found the max table size that works nicely in the space I have available, only took me three tries.
I have not insulated the bottom outside of the camper. I decided that I feel better with the wood being able to breath and stay dry. But I do have insulation under the flooring, and I am very happy for that.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
It is fun to see the photos of when the interior was being built. I want to design and build another camper (or boat) space!