Trailer Lid idea
- Thread starter msand1977
- Start date
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
The entire lid can be made of Fiberthane.
The material does flex, so an internal structure would be needed to give it strength and rigidity.
This can be done by creating bows inside the lid made from Fiberthane.
The end result would be a lightweight, strong, rigid, structure.
If you send me sketches I'd be glad to quote you on it. If we got a group order together we could amortize the design and CAD costs over the production run.
We could keep the individual sheets down in size by step cutting the top and making it out of two pieces.
The material does flex, so an internal structure would be needed to give it strength and rigidity.
This can be done by creating bows inside the lid made from Fiberthane.
The end result would be a lightweight, strong, rigid, structure.
If you send me sketches I'd be glad to quote you on it. If we got a group order together we could amortize the design and CAD costs over the production run.
We could keep the individual sheets down in size by step cutting the top and making it out of two pieces.
4WD School
Adventurer
Add me to the list of people wanting a lid for my M416. :smiley_drive:
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Fiberthane comes as an un-coated product, and it's definitely something you don't want to work with by hand, it's made from urethane and fiberglass. We finish it in linex.
The issue with a single sheet is wouldn't provide any rigidity, it would be difficult to seal against the trailer body, and it would be difficult to hinge.
A sheet of marine plywood to achieve your goals, be less expensive and available locally to you.
I'm more interested in producing a true lid that can be shipped in knock down format.
old.ski.bum
New member
I be interested too. I have a M101CDN I'd like to put a lid on and be able to put a RTT on. Thanks!:wings:
d0ubledown
Observer
i used good ole steel sheet for the skin and some 1X1 and 1X2 for the bracing. the lid was formed to make it 4" high and domed at the top for extra strength and to drip water easier. hinged with 3 SS HD needle bearing door hinges. it weighs in at about 100ish lbs. welded in some notched 1X1 for gutter mounts for my thule roof rack.
would have liked to use aluminum, but this was a budget build, and could not put that much money for the trailer lid which would be purely off road use, so it'd get dirty & beaten..etc.
would have liked to use aluminum, but this was a budget build, and could not put that much money for the trailer lid which would be purely off road use, so it'd get dirty & beaten..etc.
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Can you supply me with the outside dimensions of the top of the main box on the M 416 and the Canadian 101.
If we can get 3 people to measure their trailers we can get a statistical average.
Pull 3 measurements, two outside and one middle.
Anyone wants to pull diagonals? It would be great to get measurements off a trailer that was still square.
I have the design drawn out, once I get measurements I can calculate costs.
If we can get 3 people to measure their trailers we can get a statistical average.
Pull 3 measurements, two outside and one middle.
Anyone wants to pull diagonals? It would be great to get measurements off a trailer that was still square.
I have the design drawn out, once I get measurements I can calculate costs.
Tight_wad
Adventurer
I don't need a top anymore, but since I did a lot of measuring to get mine right:
Bed measurements were done with the bed mounted, widest measurement used for sides and ends, only a 1/16 inch variance ( 3 measurements per ). My diagonals were exactly dead on. My actual lid measurements are in my build photos.
Hope this will help.
Bed measurements were done with the bed mounted, widest measurement used for sides and ends, only a 1/16 inch variance ( 3 measurements per ). My diagonals were exactly dead on. My actual lid measurements are in my build photos.
Hope this will help.