Trailscape's 06 Tundra

[trailscape]

I don't recall what shocks you are running on the rear. I have shocks with adjustable dampeners on the rear, so when my truck is loaded down I crank them up and it dramatically firms up the rear. No sway at all. Normal driving unloaded I run them at position "1" (out of 10). Loaded up I run them at "8" or "9". I haven't connected my front sway bar for probably 4 years now. I should also mention that I'm running stock leaf packs with single AAL and overload spring retained.

Thanks. Thinking I might be due for a shock upgrade. I’ve been running the Old man emu kit from toytec for probably five years now. I did upgrade to the archive garage leaf springs.

 

[smokeysevin]

Shocks will probably help more than you would expect.

I don't run a front sway bar but I also don't have a topper which could make a difference. I am running 2.5" coilovers in the front and 2.5" shocks in the rear on super soft deaver G57s. One thing that really helped the body roll was adding the airbags. If I run them empty the back likes to waggle around but with 5 to 15ish psi it really stiffens stuff up without making the ride harsh. The downside is that one of my lines has a leak in it somewhere and the drivers side likes to go soft.

The cantilever rear shock setup I use isn't great for body roll because the shocks are further inboard than they would ideally be. I needed the clearance for the bags so the mounts went where they are.

Generally you want the shocks as far outboard on the axle as possible to resist body roll. It has no impact on purely vertical axle travel where they are mounted but on roll you effectively increase your lever length by running them out as far as possible.

Sean

 

[trailscape]

Shocks will probably help more than you would expect.

I don't run a front sway bar but I also don't have a topper which could make a difference. I am running 2.5" coilovers in the front and 2.5" shocks in the rear on super soft deaver G57s. One thing that really helped the body roll was adding the airbags. If I run them empty the back likes to waggle around but with 5 to 15ish psi it really stiffens stuff up without making the ride harsh. The downside is that one of my lines has a leak in it somewhere and the drivers side likes to go soft.

The cantilever rear shock setup I use isn't great for body roll because the shocks are further inboard than they would ideally be. I needed the clearance for the bags so the mounts went where they are.

Generally you want the shocks as far outboard on the axle as possible to resist body roll. It has no impact on purely vertical axle travel where they are mounted but on roll you effectively increase your lever length by running them out as far as possible.

Sean

I had the smaller Airlift bags before the new leafs. I was typically running them pretty high, say 50psi or more. I took them off because the leafs added enough lift and really improved the ride. I think they just broke in enough that I'm feeling that body roll again. I could always put them back, but figured I'd be losing out on the extra flex gained from the leafs. Might as well install a rear sway bar if I go that route?

 

[trailscape]

Been crazy busy.. Planning to make a move to Alabama. I love Colorado, but I'm ready for a change.

 

[WVI]

Trailscape,
I hope you enjoy Alabama.
I was stationed there for 8yrs. I miss it!

 

[Wallygator]

Subcribed! This is a great build. I'm looking to get a top like yours but thinking about the flat roof with a rack to make things easier for mounting. Do you think the lower front really makes a huge difference with wind resistance vs the flat roof? Also how did you make your floor? Looked through the whole thread and didn't see how you did the floor. I Currently have a hard shell roof top tent on a bed rack and looking to go more stealth and to keep a mountain bike on the truck full time. Thank you for posting your build, so many great ideas.

 

[huntsonora]

Been crazy busy.. Planning to make a move to Alabama. I love Colorado, but I'm ready for a change.

View attachment 663535

Where in Colorado are you? I live Windsor quite a bit. I don’t know if I could leave all the public ground here

 

[trailscape]

Where in Colorado are you? I live Windsor quite a bit. I don’t know if I could leave all the public ground here

I’m in Westminster. Yeah, the state has a lot to offer and I really like it here, but I spend a lot more time at home these days. I think I’ll actually get out and travel more after moving away.

 

[trailscape]

Been really busy trying to pack, get things ready for a move. I hate moving..

So, I had my brakes done recently. Pads, rotors, drums, stainless brake lines, etc..

Today I was looking under the truck and noticed I'm missing the rear proportioning valve. I've heard of people removing these, but usually it's replaced with a manual valve (which I actually have, but didn't think to give it to the installer). Just thinking it's kind of odd that removing it was never mentioned.

Brakes seem great though. The pedal has a much firmer feel with less travel.

 

[smokeysevin]

Install the manual prop valve asap, the truck will swap ends really easily without one. You are giving the rear waaaaaayyy more fluid than needed and it will cause the rear tires to lockup super quickly.

Sean

 

[trailscape]

Install the manual prop valve asap, the truck will swap ends really easily without one. You are giving the rear waaaaaayyy more fluid than needed and it will cause the rear tires to lockup super quickly.

Sean

I've stomped the brakes pretty good testing it out, they really seem good at the moment. But, yeah.. I don't even know what to make of this.

Know where I can find a reference for a prop valve install? I have ABS and can't find anything specific. I have the Wilwood 260-12627 valve which I thought I had seen from a thread some time ago.

 

[smokeysevin]

Ok so that was way less of a problem than not having one at all. That valve still restricts fluid flow to the rears. I thought you meant you didn't have one at all anymore.

I would just leave it as is or replace the arm and call it good.


Sean

 

[trailscape]

Yeah, I was referring to the part attaching to the axle. I'm not sure what exact name of that is. Can't figure out why a shop would remove that component.

Ok so that was way less of a problem than not having one at all. That valve still restricts fluid flow to the rears. I thought you meant you didn't have one at all anymore.

I would just leave it as is or replace the arm and call it good.


Sean

 

[trailscape]

Got some gremlins lately. I don't know what's going on.

If my parking lights are on and I turn off the ignition, the AC/fan will stay on until the lights are turned off.
If the parking lights are off, they turn on when I turn on the AC/fan.
Truck will stall if I turn the headlights on with the AC on.
Both my front turn signals blink together. Rear work fine.


****** is happening.

 

[smokeysevin]

Got some gremlins lately. I don't know what's going on.

If my parking lights are on and I turn off the ignition, the AC/fan will stay on until the lights are turned off.
If the parking lights are off, they turn on when I turn on the AC/fan.
Truck will stall if I turn the headlights on with the AC on.
Both my front turn signals blink together. Rear work fine.


****** is happening.

Check connections in the steering column and under the dash. I had a worn wire in the steering column that would cycle the overdrive on the transmission on bumps or when shifting the shifter position.

Sean