Traversing the US (and back)

jessejman

Adventurer
Day 8 continued

So when we entered the park, running from east to west, we basically got in for free. We were excited about the little known back door through the pass. However, when we arrived at the park entrance (we were exiting), there was an exit station checking for park passes. We were not so excited about this. Planning my argument for not paying the $25 fee (we didn't use the maintained roads, didn't hike on the trails [too hot], didn't use one of their facilities[way too many people]), we approached the station. The car two cars in front us pulled away and out jumps the ranger from the booth and sprints over to a nearby larger structure. The exit booth is unmanned. The excitement in the front seats was intense. This was our chance. I slammed down the accelerator and we leapt forward - no, not really, we do drive an 80 series Land Cruiser - so we slowly gained momentum and passed through the check station displaying our imaginary pass in our empty hands. This was to be a repeated theme.

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So we headed through the plain to Del Norte occasionally checking our rear view for a green and white ranger truck. Whatever, I know they're horribly understaffed. And then we headed back up into the mountains. This time into the Rio Grand NF and over Stormking Pass.

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Not too far into this canyon we found a nice free place to stop for the night.

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jessejman

Adventurer
Day 8 continued

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Another relatively short day that we really enjoyed. We were starting to hit a good pace at this point.
 

jessejman

Adventurer
Day 9: Stormking - near Lake City,CO

We woke up did some exploring and got on the road. We climbed up to Carnero pass on NF 690 then took a westward turn into Lower South Park, the big open meadow. This was a great section with lots of trails that crisscross the entire Rio Grande. And there was almost no one up there. We could have spent two weeks right here exploring the area.

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That's where we're headed. The San Juans looking at Engineer and Cinnamon Pass.
 
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jessejman

Adventurer
Day 9 continued

Dropping out of the Rio Grande NF we hit state highway 114 and took it west for about a mile before heading southwest onto some smaller NF roads that would eventually lead us onto 790, Cebolla Creek. We also passed through more beautiful high meadows: Burro Park, Big Meadow, Groundhog/Willow Park (my favorite).

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jessejman

Adventurer
Day 9 end

I wanted to stop and camp at Willow Park. It would have been an incredible campsite, sheltered with trees with open views at all sides. But at over 11000 feel we decided it was too cold a spot for the kids. Previous nights at over 9000" the kids sleeping bags were maxed out. Next time we'll bring warmer bags. \

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Instead we descended and found a nice free NF campground with no one in it. We soon found at why. There was one pesky chipmunk who was bold enough to get in our car looking for food. That's why I don't like organized campgrounds.
 
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jessejman

Adventurer
Day 10: Cathedral to Ouray, CO

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We continued down and back into civilization.

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This was a little community called Cathedral. As Stephanie was taking this photo I distinctly remember having that gut-wrenching/dropping feeling of something not right with the car. Every morning I went through a pre-trip checklist of all vital fluids and connections. I did that on this day but I stopped right here just past those rocks on the left to make sure we didn't have a flat or one axle-shaft locked in 4wd.

I was hearing the dreaded whump-whumping coming from the front right wheel. I went through possible causes: air pressure at 30psi (to ease the rough roads/provide traction when needed) - right where it should be and had not been making noise before, axle not locked in 4wd - nothing there, tie-rod end dust covers were beginning to crack but not bad enough to effect anything, diff fluid good, trunion grease good, only obvious thing left was the wheel-bearings.

It was hard to tell the difference as driving on gravel is loud as it is but I knew that something was wrong and I thought or thought I imagined that the slight whump-whumping got worse as weight shifted to that side of the car in turns. Nothing to do but keep going now and we had some stout days ahead of us.

I prayed the front end would hold together until Telluride/Norwood where we would stay with family and have access to a garage.

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Down Slumgullion Gulch into Lake City. Only expensive gas here but we thought we'd have enough to make Ouray

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Up towards Cinnamon Pass...

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things were about to get good.
 

jessejman

Adventurer
Day 10: Cathedral to Ouray, CO

I chose Cinnamon Pass over the more popular Engineer simply because I've done Engineer before and I wanted to see American Basin. The photos speak for themselves. We have tons and it's hard to pick the best. Also, if you can't tell all of these are unedited and some through the windshield which I know you can see. I'm purely an amateur at most of all this and especially at shooting photos of óberlanding.

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A subaru could easily make it up Cinnamon. One just needs to be comfortable with exposure. My wife was not. She walked some of the 'bad' sections. So much for doing Black Bear tomorrow.
 

jessejman

Adventurer
Day 10: Cathedral to Ouray, CO

Over Cinnamon, up Houghton Gulch (back towards Engineer) and then down the Mineral Creek. Mineral Creek was definitely a step up - maxed out clearance and off-camber. Too bad I was probably destroying something in the front-end.

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Lunch and poser pics.

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My wife 'lucky to be alive.' And to think that she has climbed 1800' routes in Yosemite!

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Looking down into Animas Forks.
 

jessejman

Adventurer
Day 10: Cathedral to Ouray, CO

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Up Houghton Gulch the views were amazing.

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And then we started down Mineral Creek. As a side note, adding to the tension in the vehicle, my wife kept shoving the GPS in my face showing me that the road along Mineral Creek (the one we were on) ended. She thought we should go back and out another way to Ouray but I had to keep reassuring her that a trail this well used would not simply dead end. It went down...but it was steep.

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It was like this for hours. No jeeps or other trucks that day. We were only passed by ATVs and motos. Again, not very reassuring.

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I think this second photo does a good job of showing the pitch of the trail. It constantly wanted to spit us off or roll us over. At least, that's what it felt like. No trouble though; the Cruiser never even got light despite some pretty heavy leaning.

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Upon descending to Million Dollar Hwy we cruised into Ouray to check out the local mechanics, get some groceries and gas up for the trip over Imogene Pass into Telluride. We also had to find a place to camp for the night. Good luck! There was nothing open - no pay campgrounds, no NF campgrounds, nothing. So we cruised up Camp Bird road towards Yankee Boy Basin and found a little place to pull off and tuck away for the evening. It was a high (read 'cold') camp but it was free and quiet with a wonderful view of the surrounding mountains.
 

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