Unimogadventures - Our build and travel thread

[charlesrg]

I'm wondering how the Kalori Silencio 2 are doing ? Do you feel the need of 2 of them ?
I've spec 2 of them in my 19 foot box (2 inch FRP insulated) and wondering if it's overkill. Looking to switch to a Kalori Siliencio I or another radiator with 24V fan. The end goal is to control the fan with PWM so I might replace the fans on the kalori unit.

 

[Iain_U1250]

I'm wondering how the Kalori Silencio 2 are doing ? Do you feel the need of 2 of them ?
I've spec 2 of them in my 19 foot box (2 inch FRP insulated) and wondering if it's overkill. Looking to switch to a Kalori Siliencio I or another radiator with 24V fan. The end goal is to control the fan with PWM so I might replace the fans on the kalori unit.

For where we live, having two of the Kalori S2s is overkill, we can heat up the camper in a few minutes with the fans on high. We have stacked another layer of fans ( three only as I used the fourth for our fridge vent ) on the back of the original Kalori fans, almost silent computer fans that give just a gentle breeze compared to the massive amount of air the Kalori fans can move. We are drawing in outside air for the Kalori fans, so that does make a difference rather than recirculating the air, and we also tend to have the roof hatches in their semi-closed position which allows of airflow which I think is a necessity. We have never had any condensation problems.



I worked out a long time ago that we needed about 5kW to heat the camper to 20C with an outside temp of -30C ( if we insulated the front windscreen and windows), and one Kalori S2 doesn quite cut it . We have the 9.3kW Webasto version, so plenty to spare which goes into the engine block as well, we also heat the hot water system, and the rear compartment with the watertanks in it. I was also considering having a loop in the battery compartment as well, to keep the LiFePo4 batteries warm if we ever get to a really cold place, but a heat pad seemed easier.

I also have a fan providing positive pressure into the two rear storage pods at the back of the truck, which will keep the batteries there warm as as well.



I used the space around the water heater tank to store spare hoses, fanbelts, brakes lines and turbo oil lines and anything long and skinny.

 

[Iain_U1250]

Whilst I am here, might as well update some other things I've done to the truck.

First off - here is the 250A Mechman alternator ( I have a 12V truck so everything is easy). I need to get a smaller pulley made for it, as at idle ( 700-rpm) it does not charge much, but over 1500rpm, it puts out the around +200A, so it will work for now. At +200A, it does not run hotter than the old one did (80-90C), and Mechman say they one I have is good for more than +120C. The pulley that came with it doesn't have the same spacing as the a/c compressor next to it. Like the old one, I run a dual belt pulley, and doesn't squeal at all. I tried it with the Mechman pulley that came with it, and the belt got pretty hot, and you can see the wear. Switching to this pulley and all is good.




The new alternator is a basically a bolt in replacement for the generic Bosch 120A one, but getting the right regulator proved to be difficult. I told Mechman to make sure the voltage did not get over 14.5V, so to protect the LiPoFe4 batteries. When I tested it, it ran at 14.9V - too high as it is pretty close to the 15.0V when the BMS will cut out the batteries.

I got them to send me a 14.5V regulator, which turned out to be a dud, so I bought one locally, a 14.5V one from a Honda. That one was cheap, only $40, so I bought a spare for just in case.





The other thing I fitted is some new Ironman Foam shocks, they are significantly bigger than the Koni shocks, and quite a lot sitffer. They have transformed the truck, no long does it wobble like an old Range Rover. The truck still leans going around roundabout, but it does so slowly.




The shocks are phyically much bigger, so much so that they don't fit with the plastic covers on the front of the U1250 - but they do on a U1300. Ironman supplied some rubber boots for to replace the cover, bit of mission to get them on but they fit OK.

 

[Jostt]

Hello Ian, congrats for your nuclear plant... You can sale the extra energy, jeje, nice shocks, I think the koni you use were the std no? The hellget ones work I bit better on the MOG, but in any case is good to know about other brands and options, I will follow your comments about your new ones, I think even this year will be not possible to visit Phillip Island by the situation...

 

[Iain_U1250]

Correct, the Konis were the standard ones for a U1250. I saw the Hellgeth ones, they have the same problem on a U1250 - need to take of the upper shield and replace it with a rubber boot. The Ironman ones are even bigger than the Hellgeth Konis. The best thing was the cost of all four as about half the cost of a pair of Konis over here.

Might be a while before Australia lets people in given the current state of the Covid in the rest of the world.

 

[joeblack5]

Be aware that some alternators will adjust the voltage upward when temps go down..
To faster recharge when cold but also lead acid batteries voltage is temperature dependent.

Johan

 

[charlieaarons]

Iain, what are the extended and compressed dimensions of the Ironman shocks, eye-to-eye? Do they take a 20mm bolt? My stock shocks are roughly 444mm-719mm.

 

[Iain_U1250]

Iain, what are the extended and compressed dimensions of the Ironman shocks, eye-to-eye? Do they take a 20mm bolt? My stock shocks are roughly 444mm-719mm.

HI Charlie, these might be a bit better for your truck, the bigger ones - 755mm extended length

http://www.ironman4x4.com/products/...0-front-and-rear-shock-absorber-foam-cell-pro


I got the ones for the U1300 - 710mm extended length.

Unimog UL 1300L, 1550L, U4000 Front and Rear Shock Absorbers - Foam Cell Pro

www.ironman4x4.com

They both take the 20mm bolt.

 

[Iain_U1250]

Be aware that some alternators will adjust the voltage upward when temps go down..
To faster recharge when cold but also lead acid batteries voltage is temperature dependent.

Johan

Thanks Johan, I doubt the simple regulator I have will be that sophisticated, just a standard old fashion 14.5V regulator. I could have chosen a 14.2V or a 14.4V as well. Pretty common style regulator, found on Toyotas, Hondas etc.

 

[Iain_U1250]

There was another thread about tyre inflation systems and I thought I should share my system that I built then took off and why.

I had four coil connector hoses like these.





The connector to the tyres was a screw on fitting. I tested it all out a few times and to be honest, found the difficult part was screwing the connector onto the valve, especially when the wheels are muddy or I've been on the beach.


I have the a manifold to connect both tyres on the axle together, and Jamec Pem automatic tyre inflator (https://www.jamecpem.com/collections/tyre-inflators/products/auto1000-digital-auto-inflator), which connected to the trucks air system. All I had to do was turn on the isolation valve, power up the inflator and it do the rest.



The biggest problem is the Schrader valve on the tyre, they limit the airflow a lot. They also tend to be fairly soft brass, so it is easy to damage the threads on it. It was a hassle to fit the coils back into the tubes, and in the end I decided to take it off and just put some air connectors on each side of the truck, so I can connect the tyre inflator onto each side. That way I can keep the automatic inflator stored away inside the truck along with the coil air hoses. I also found the clip on connector for the inflator much easier to use than the screw on connectors, but occasionally they would need to be refitted as they would sometimes leak. The air connectors need some protection from dirt under the truck, so I use some rubber feet for chair legs.





Each fitting has a valve so I can make sure there are no leaks.



This is the weak point in the system, the fittings are quite finicky to fit, and would sometimes leak a bit of fiddling to get it too seal.



For lowering the pressure, I decided to go back to more manual systems, I already have two sets of these Staun Automatic Tyre Deflators, https://stauntyredeflators.com.au/ I have set each pair for 15 PSI, 20PSI, 25PSI and 30PSI. That way I can just put them onto the tyres and get back in the truck and wait till they stop deflating. They are pretty easy to use, just set and forget.

Whilst they are pretty slow at dropping the pressure in the big 365/80R20s tyes, all four are getting done at the same time and they automatically stop when they are at the right pressure. We run the rear tyres about 5PSI higher than the front tyres. They are not 100% accurate, so 15PSI might give about 0.5PSI different, usually on the high side I've found but not worth worrying about.

These are the front tyres at 15PSI, for the soft sand on our favourite beach.



This is 20PSI, for the more serious off-road or hard sand



This is 25 PSI - when the corrugations get bad




I also have an ARB tyre deflator https://www.sevenslot.com.au/product/arb-tyre-deflator/ if I want to be more accurate, this is really quick to deflate the truck tyres, as you screw the inside of the valve out. It works great but is a bit more effort to use as you have to keep checking the gauge.

So this is what we carry around now.






We have spent a fair bit of time driving on soft sand beaches, and found that it is best to go with lower tyre pressure, it puts less strain on the truck than trying to keep the pressure high so you don't have to pump them back up later.

 

[OllieChristopher]

Holy crap Iain!! I just came across this thread. That is one hell of a rig you fabricated. I did not have to go through all 50 pages to see this is a serious vehicle that gets used for its intended purpose. If not well beyond it!!

I think it's important to note that most everyone here in the United States has no clue as to the capability of a rig like yours. Almost all monster builds that are similar to yours here in the US do not see much more than a smooth 2 track or local coffee shop.

Thank you for sharing and giving me some good ideas for my daily driver "baby build" (1/2 ton truck/motorcycle camp hauler).

 

[Iain_U1250]

Thanks, it took a long time to build it, and we make sure we use it for what it was intended. We prefer going to places where there are no people, main reason for building the truck. Our travels were limited last year, so hoping to get away more this year. This is our map of where we have been with our truck and our Land Rover.

 

[Iain_U1250]

I was bored so decided to make this little video of our build - just photos taken from Day 1 until the end of our first trip around Australia.

 

[Sitec]

View attachment 635043

Great build vid. Where was this pic taken? Looks like a great spot off the beaten track. Has Covid hampered your travels or are you still mobile? Cheers.

 

[Iain_U1250]

Time for a bit of feedback on the modifications and how things went on our latest trip.

With all the drama around snap state border closures, we decided to stay within a few hours drive of the border, so just went down to Black Rock campground in Bundjulung National Park. We were there four years ago just before we started moving around Australia for work, and we liked it a lot, so was an easy choice.



We took a roundabout road to go there, spending a few nights at various other places as it was still school holidays are it was booked out until Australia Day.

We took the "scenic route" which included a few rough washed out tracks, the new shock absorbers worked great, reduced the rolling by a lot. Trish was most impressed and a lot happier. One of the locals suggested a "short cut" up to a campground, which turned out to be a 2 hour extra long drive up some very washed out tracks. Truck did it easy as usual, was just slow and driving straight into the sun most of the time.



We took the normal route on the way down, must quicker and easier.

I noticed that the air intake temperature was a lot higher than normal when we were driving up a long hill. It normally sits around 50-70C, about 30-40C above ambient when on full boost. This time it got over 130C. I pulled over an found the intercooler radiator was leaking. I disconnected the pump and we carried on. I pulled out the radiator for some roadside repairs. It seems when I replaced some of the mounts on the intercooler last week, I manged to tighten the fan so that the shroud pulled into the radiator. We have been traveling on some rough dirt roads and guess the soft aluminium didn't like it.


I repaired it with some JB Weld - the leaking hole was actually quite small, and I sucked a bit of the epoxy into the hole as well.


The fan doesn't come on much, so I will leave it off. Normal driving speed is enough to force the air through the radiators anyway, and I've modified the grill to make sure as much air as possible goes through the radiator. I guess the intercooler really works, given the big drop in intake temperature it creates. This damage also did not stop the truck from working, just meant I have a bit less power and had to watch the EGT on long climbs, it got to 630C before I backed off, and normally it seldom get above 600C on full boost. The JB Weld held water, and we had no problems on the rest of the trip, but simple how just tighten a few bolts too hard on the rubber mounts created a problem. I think I'll replace the radiator anyway.

The new lithium battery system worked great, as did our folding glass auxiliary solar panels which I put up on the roof. We were seeing 20+A going into the battery during the day. Battery new got below 80%, despite having two overcast days. The ability of the lithium batteries to take charge seems so much better than the lead acids, the would be back at 100% in only a few hours of sunshine.




One of the main reasons we loved Black Rock was because of the Jerusalem Creek next door, it is a 9km paddle to the end, and we did it each day we were there. Our inflatable boat works great, however on the very last day as we were packing it up, the floor panel lost air, the seam had come adrift. Looks like an easy repair, and we have all the proper glue etc so will give fixing it a go. We have had the boat for more than 12 years now, and has been used quite a lot.



I also gave the drones a few test flights. The Mavic Pro 2 is just great, super stable with a fantastic camera. I recently bought a Mavic 2 Mini - tiny little drone that weighs 248g. It is super quiet, but no where near as stable in the wind down at the beach. The bigger Mavic is rock solid - does not move at all in the wind, the Mini wanders a bit, so need to be watched carefully, as it can drift a metre or two quite easily. It is a great little drone, and the whole kit can fit in a pocket of a backpack and weighs next to nothing compared to my normal cameras I carry around. I would still take the Mavic Pro over the Mini if I wanted to do an serious photos or videos, but for a bit of fun on a hike or to capture some unique angles, I will carry the Mini with us a lot more.