VanKrishna: Operation K.I.S.S.

[silvrzuki77]

Don't know if you had a chance to drive on the freeway yet, but I ended doing the exact same thing for the vacuum leak in my van. When I got on the free way I would lose my AC since I passed the vacuum canister. I bought a universal canister from Amazon and hooked it inline. Haven't had any issues since.


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[Jb1rd]

You must have been reading my mind!! I was just getting ready to post something about this. Indeed I too am losing AC at highway speeds, it is weird in that it seems to build vacuum and work properly then it's gone, I start getting a little warm and then notice that it kicks back on, I am guessing that it still leaking somewhere, just not as prolifically as before.. Where is the "canister" located exactly, I have no idea what most of these things are, I just started chasing down lines and looking for obvious problems and got lucky with this fix (having a tenacious friend around helps too

Don't know if you had a chance to drive on the freeway yet, but I ended doing the exact same thing for the vacuum leak in my van. When I got on the free way I would lose my AC since I passed the vacuum canister. I bought a universal canister from Amazon and hooked it inline. Haven't had any issues since.


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[silvrzuki77]

Yeah the canister is buried in the engine compartment where you can't get it. The system needs that reservoir to get the AC going. $12 part and you will be good to go!


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[Jb1rd]

Sooooooooooo, where do I plumb in the "universal" canister? Not sure where I would put it.

Yeah the canister is buried in the engine compartment where you can't get it. The system needs that reservoir to get the AC going. $12 part and you will be good to go!


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[silvrzuki77]

Anywhere between the engine manifold line and where it goes up into the dash. Cause essentially you bypassed the stock canister. I can take a picture tomorrow if you need it.


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[4x4pair]

I did the same thing with a universal canister...problem solved. I routed my line through the firewall on the passenger side and snaked it up under the dash. With two people it was pretty easy.

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[Jb1rd]

Still plugging away, but.....

...I unfortunately do not skateboard nearly as good as I remember and have suffered the reality shattering defeat of growing older :drool: Good news is it's not broken, bad news is it's not broken, now its a hobble around and wait game which makes working on the van a little more difficult trying to crawl in and out of the elevated beast and crouching/kneeling is not very pleasant either!!

 

[Jb1rd]

Finally got around to getting mounting brackets made for the Tuff Stuff Lights (JW speaker 7" round headlight knock offs) I will say that I really miss having dedicated shop space and equipment, even at "bro" deal pricing, fabrication work is ridiculously expensive!!! What in essence is a very basic concept took over 4 hours to build
Simple angle iron brackets with 4 5m x 16mm allen bolts attached to the pre-drilled and half@$$ed tapped holes in the light housing. (we wound up re-chasing the threads) The white stuff is some type of extruded solid plastic that comes in rods, we cut these to fit then realized that the holes in the Aluminess bumper are not centered very well and had to cut one side down and add a shim to the other side to get it to center correctly.

The block in the center is a 1" square solid piece that we milled down, then tapped and died for a 1/2" x 13pitch x 1" Allen bolt, it is also cross drilled to allow the 1/4" x 20pitch x 5" through bolt, this allows for up and down positioning and the allen bolt accommodates the side to side positioning

We ended up drilling out an access hole so we can get at the nuts for easier adjustment/tightening

These are meant to be replacement headlights for Jeeps so I will wire them with at 3 pole switch that will allow for Hi Beam, Low Beam and DRL

Thanks to forum member 1DER for turning me on to these lights as I think they will make a great addition to the anemic lighting that comes stock with these beasts, next up will be the Rigid 5x7 direct replacement head lights and a 30" Rigid or Baja Designs dual color light bar mounted above the winch.
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[Jb1rd]

Undercarriage Coating??

I remember seeing somewhere that you can get your undercarriage coated for a pretty reasonable price but can not for the life of me figure out what it is called and who would do it???? Crawling around under there has brought it to my attention to get it done sooner than later. TIA

 

[Jb1rd]

Source (SPOD) style wiring kits

Do any of you have experience with this SPOD type product; Looks like a good price but how is the rel world quality? Getting ready for the pre wiring and came across this when looking for the SPOD
https://www.amazon.com/LITE-WAY-Jee...id=1475811691&sr=8-1&keywords=the+source+spod

 

[Jb1rd]

VanKrishna or BBBB (************** Big Blue Beast)

Mr. Observant here found what looks to be a frame mount battery box on my 03 E350 with 5.4, I was not aware that the gas engines had a second battery. Can anyone tell me if they have one of these on their gasser???

 

[Raul]

Mr. Observant here found what looks to be a frame mount battery box on my 03 E350 with 5.4, I was not aware that the gas engines had a second battery. Can anyone tell me if they have one of these on their gasser???

I do. 2000 E-150 Chateau 5.4l. I replaced the original battery with a deep cycle connected to a HD relay as a House Battery.

 

[Jb1rd]

Was it as difficult to remove and replace as it looks?? Looking at it, I am not sure how to tackle getting it out :drool:

I do. 2000 E-150 Chateau 5.4l. I replaced the original battery with a deep cycle connected to a HD relay as a House Battery.

 

[Jb1rd]

Gearing

This is a cross/double post from the Coyote thread but it seems pertinent here as it is regarding my van;

"Can you, or someone here school me a little on this please? I have a Quigley converted E350 EB with the Agile RIP kit and 285/75/16 tires, I would love to go to 35's but I really do not think it is necessary or going to add any benefit to me other than "COOL" factor (based on the majority of use) I would however like to get 17" or 18" rims at some point in the future so I can grade my brakes but other than that I feel content with the 33" size range. I do not know what gears are in there but I know the PO did not change them so they are what Quigely originally spec'd. How do I find out what gears are currently installed and what should I be looking for in the new gears"?

 

[Raul]

Was it as difficult to remove and replace as it looks?? Looking at it, I am not sure how to tackle getting it out :drool:

It is not difficult (just anoying) if you can support the battery. I use a floor jack. If I recall correctly, The box is supported by 4 bolts on the frame. 2 are in round holes (your pic#3) and need to be removed. The other 2 are in slotted (your pic #2) holes, loose the bolts, slide the box and it comes out. Not very convenient to check the water level.