Weather proof Bulkhead connector for solar panels?

Alloy

Well-known member
After 8 pages of this thread, it became apparent that there is no "perfect" solution to the initial problem I outlined in my original post. The issue with the J560 is that it is big and bulky (and ugly sticking up out of the roof) and won't fit under the 2" clearance of the roof rack. I held my nose and ordered the "fiddlefucky" SAE two pole bulkhead connector. If I find something better some day, the good news is that of all the options I looked at, this requires the smallest hole in the roof. Therefore I can always enlarge the hole to accommodate something better.

A touch of silicone grease will prolong the life.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
As soon as someone makes a pripotary expo trailer plug thats submersible to 90ft, Locking, with a 2awg power feed, air supply, camera lines and most importantly a swivel base so they can do barrel rolls with their fully articulating hitch you know this crowd is go nuts trying to give their money to em.
And costs $350
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Nope, simpler and lower profile. Like this

View attachment 571281
Hell I'm probably going to wind up using the same thing. The bulkhead fitting mounted vertically to the inner face of the rear shoe of my roof rack. I'll cut that wire rig in half and splice the bulkhead end to more zip wire passing down thru one of the rack mount bolt holes into the ceiling and down the D pillar. And I'll put another splice on the other half and run it into the panel mounting frame, terminating in an APP that I can plug the panel into.
 

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
Hell I'm probably going to wind up using the same thing. The bulkhead fitting mounted vertically to the inner face of the rear shoe of my roof rack. I'll cut that wire rig in half and splice the bulkhead end to more zip wire passing down thru one of the rack mount bolt holes into the ceiling and down the D pillar. And I'll put another splice on the other half and run it into the panel mounting frame, terminating in an APP that I can plug the panel into.

Thats pretty much exactly my plan. The bulkhead connector passes through the top of my fiberglass hardtop (Jeep) and then down to an Anderson connector inside the Jeep. I've made up an Anderson-to-Anderson cable to plug into my Suaoki battery and I also made a 30' long 10AWG extension cable that is SAE on one end (to plug directly to the panel's lead) and Anderson on the other end (to plug into the Suaoki battery pack) when I want to park/camp in the shade but deploy the panel in the sun.


IMG_3427.jpgIMG_3429.jpg


Of course now that I've finished this and spent hours sourcing everything it dawned on me that I should have just used McMaster Carr...

 

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
Looks similar to Anderson to me.

Which products there do you think meet the specs you posted?

Unfortunately, nothing I found was "perfect" so I solved for the external features of the SAE connector - extremely low profile. As you can see from the photo, it is very close to the roofline and more or less "disappears" when not in use. I'd like to cover the back side of that bulkhead connector on the interior to make it look a bit more OEM, but for now I'm making a gentle bend and routing the wire to some adhesive wire tie mounts.

Once I decide on a final mounting position of the aux battery, I'll affix the Anderson plug nearby either via a panel mount that I got on eBay or by screwing it down to a panel for a horizontal mounting position.

2020-03-09_09-40-59.jpg2020-03-09_09-41-00.jpgs-l1600 (1).jpg
 

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
???While I wait for the Why is my connector turning green, how do I clean it, and it is weeping water inside.

haha. Yea, well the generous goop of RTV around the outside bulkhead flange and the dielectric grease inside the connector should buy me some time.

Do a google image search - I guarantee that if you eliminate MC4 connectors, 80%+ of what you'll see for solar panel connections will be SAE connectors for some reason.

Nice thread form ! Self seizing ?
No locking washer required.

The actual unit I received is even better-finished than the one in the images. I'm pretty impressed for something that was 3D printed. The APP connector does need to be glued in place) or there is a provision to drive a roll pin all the way down through it as well.

 
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john61ct

Adventurer
Unfortunately, nothing I found was "perfect"
Sorry I'd inferred that you saw something better for your use case than that SAE unit on the McMasters site.

If so, linking to it might benefit others reading this thread in the future.

If not, then at least people won't waste time looking for it.
 

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
Sorry I'd inferred that you saw something better for your use case than that SAE unit on the McMasters site.

If so, linking to it might benefit others reading this thread in the future.

If not, then at least people won't waste time looking for it.

Sorry for the confusion. I used the item I posted in my original post . https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...onnector-for-solar-panels.213241/post-2747056

They are a dime a dozen pretty much anywhere you look. The one I ended up with wasn't particularly noteworthy - I picked it based on the fact that it used 12 AWG wire instead of 10, which would have been overkill and more difficult to work with.

Here's my final parts list:

Bulkhead connector (2-pack) $12
Ten Pack 10 AWG Anderson contacts for the #1327 housings - $10
10 AWG SAE connector (or 30' extension cable) - $10
14 AWG SAE connector (for Panel connection to bulkhead) - $9
10 Pair Anderson Powerpole connectors with contacts (30 amp) - $17
50 ft. Spool of 14/2 tinned duplex wire - $21

The wiring plan is as follows:

1583807395658.png
 
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rayra

Expedition Leader
Looks like a good plan to me, I did much the same


solarpanelmount23.jpg



My rooftop solar has been 'temporarily' wired for over a year. Still need the proper bulkhead connector and routing thru my roof rack footing into the ceiling, down the D pillas and into my rear power module where I have the PWC controller installed.
My rooftop solar panel is a folding / portable panel kit, which I built a custom locking frame for on the roof deck. But I've also made provision for setting the panel on the ground far from the vehicle, presuming I can find a shady spot to park the vehicle in the desert southwest. In which case I use a long tether cable and jack into a PP15 on the rear face of my power module.
So as seen in the above pic, I've got a variety of cabling / connection options to support different configurations. The panel itself originally had the PWC mounted on the back side of the panel's tilting leg framing and was wired with SAE connections. So I have the shorter SAE to PP plugged into the panel and the long lead with PP15 connectors on both ends running back and down along my liftgate and into the power box . All I have to do is unlock the roof frame and take the panel down and set it within 30' of the vehicle.

eta I've got room on my roof, what I'd like to do is re-make my roof mount and have a permanently mounted panel forward of existing panel and keep the rear folding panel at the rear, relocatable. but I have to find a fixed panel that's <44" long. I already have a 'Y' connector (PP15s) on the input of the PWC. As well as a newer PWC
 
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Alloy

Well-known member
Sorry for the confusion. I used the item I posted in my original post . https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...onnector-for-solar-panels.213241/post-2747056

They are a dime a dozen pretty much anywhere you look. The one I ended up with wasn't particularly noteworthy - I picked it based on the fact that it used 12 AWG wire instead of 10, which would have been overkill and more difficult to work with.

Here's my final parts list:

Bulkhead connector (2-pack) $12
Ten Pack 10 AWG Anderson contacts for the #1327 housings - $10
10 AWG SAE connector (or 30' extension cable) - $10
14 AWG SAE connector (for Panel connection to bulkhead) - $9
10 Pair Anderson Powerpole connectors with contacts (30 amp) - $17
50 ft. Spool of 14/2 tinned duplex wire - $21

The wiring plan is as follows:

View attachment 572502

If used in the cold the 10ga duplex wire might be hard to coil....and the jacket adds allot of bulk.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
haha. Yea, well the generous goop of RTV around the outside bulkhead flange and the dielectric grease inside the connector should buy me some time.

Do a google image search - I guarantee that if you eliminate MC4 connectors, 80%+ of what you'll see for solar panel connections will be SAE connectors for some reason.



The actual unit I received is even better-finished than the one in the images. I'm pretty impressed for something that was 3D printed. The APP connector does need to be glued in place) or there is a provision to drive a roll pin all the way down through it as well.


Would use black 3M 5200 Fast Dry instead of RTV.

SAE are cheap and will last a 2 years if used 1-2 times a month. The easier it becomes to use a SAE connector the higher the electrical resistance.
 

SBSYNCRO

Well-known member
Would use black 3M 5200 Fast Dry instead of RTV.

SAE are cheap and will last a 2 years if used 1-2 times a month. The easier it becomes to use a SAE connector the higher the electrical resistance.

I thought about 5200 but based on exactly your other point, I wanted something that would perform a gasket function more than an adhesive function, since I’ll likely be replacing every couple years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Alloy

Well-known member
I thought about 5200 but based on exactly your other point, I wanted something that would perform a gasket function more than an adhesive function, since I’ll likely be replacing every couple years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

5200 should make a gasket also but 5200 shouldn't break loose as easily as RTV when the plug is used. Myself I'd rather take a chance it needs to be cut off vs. have it leak on a trip.

Another option is a min. 1/8" silicone gasket with a little RTV. Depends if the surface is curved.

A washer that is larger than the clamp nut and placed on the inside under the clamp nut will reduce the amount that the socket can move when being used.

When installing put masking tape circle on the roof that is 1/8"- 3/16" larger on both sides of the socket/gasket. It will keep the sealant from spreading and looks better. Take the masking off when the sealant becomes tacky. Take the masking off too soon and the sealant will form long strings.
 

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