What did you do to your Mitsubishi today?
- Thread starter Nebel
- Start date
Tinted the windows on both trucks. Wow very good decision. Can't barely see in so hopefully stuff will be safe in there and should cut the heat for the little guy in the summer.
Balanced all the tires, and changed oils. The 98 had a drip above the alternator... The 06 is dry as a bone.
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Balanced all the tires, and changed oils. The 98 had a drip above the alternator... The 06 is dry as a bone.
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Schitzangiggles
King of Macastan
Replaced my timing belt, water pump, some coolant hoses, plastidiped the grill and bumper, fixed the passenger front door handle, and replaced the exterior door handles.
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Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
Schitzangiggles
King of Macastan
Put on a Moog steering damper and replaced the transfer case shifter (which was all but gone!) Also installed JDM corner lights and removed the "Montero" badges and slapped on a Pajero rear emblem (no pics, sorry).
PS: If (like me) you complete your transfer case shifter swap, can shift into all 4 4wd/2wd settings but your dash 4wd indicator isn't relaying the information correctly DON'T assume you've f*cked something up and take EVERYTHING back apart again. After spending literally 2 hours after the initial installation fiddling around with the shift fork locations, the detent spring, etc etc I finally just keyed on the IGN, put it in Neutral and ran through the shift pattern about 4 times. At first only the 2wd indicator lights and center diff lock were working, then about the 3rd or 4th time through the dash 4wd indicator started relaying the correct information. SO, I fully installed the shifter and tried again: still working. I put it in park, started the truck and ran through the shift pattern againin neutral: still working. So then I actually took it out and went through all 4 positions and everything works.
So the moral of the story is install the shifter with 2 out of the 4 bolts (before you lay down your bead of sealant) and row through the shift pattern a couple of times before you button everything up to get your 4WD indicator lights working as well as to make sure you've installed everything correctly.
PS: If (like me) you complete your transfer case shifter swap, can shift into all 4 4wd/2wd settings but your dash 4wd indicator isn't relaying the information correctly DON'T assume you've f*cked something up and take EVERYTHING back apart again. After spending literally 2 hours after the initial installation fiddling around with the shift fork locations, the detent spring, etc etc I finally just keyed on the IGN, put it in Neutral and ran through the shift pattern about 4 times. At first only the 2wd indicator lights and center diff lock were working, then about the 3rd or 4th time through the dash 4wd indicator started relaying the correct information. SO, I fully installed the shifter and tried again: still working. I put it in park, started the truck and ran through the shift pattern againin neutral: still working. So then I actually took it out and went through all 4 positions and everything works.
So the moral of the story is install the shifter with 2 out of the 4 bolts (before you lay down your bead of sealant) and row through the shift pattern a couple of times before you button everything up to get your 4WD indicator lights working as well as to make sure you've installed everything correctly.
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BEG
Adventurer
Finally fixed my leaking, rusted fuel pump hanger assembly. The PO had patched the supply elbow with epoxy and it was a leaky mess. The tip of the supply and the entire return elbow snapped clean off when trying to remove the assembly from the tank:
I cleaned up the rust with phosphoric acid, drilled the hanger top for -6AN supply and -4AN return bulkhead fittings and added new submersible in-tank supply and return hoses:
I painted the top with rust-resistant enamel, cleaned and lubed the electrical connectors, added stainless mounting hardware and used pushlock hose barbs for the connections:
Here it is installed (sorry about the glare from the new gauge sender). Not the prettiest, but better than $600 for a new OEM hanger:
The rubber supply line bypasses the hard line and goes right to the fuel filter. I added a M14x1.5 to -6AN adapter at the filter inlet and used another -6AN pushlock hose barb to connect it. No leaks
I cleaned up the rust with phosphoric acid, drilled the hanger top for -6AN supply and -4AN return bulkhead fittings and added new submersible in-tank supply and return hoses:
I painted the top with rust-resistant enamel, cleaned and lubed the electrical connectors, added stainless mounting hardware and used pushlock hose barbs for the connections:
Here it is installed (sorry about the glare from the new gauge sender). Not the prettiest, but better than $600 for a new OEM hanger:
The rubber supply line bypasses the hard line and goes right to the fuel filter. I added a M14x1.5 to -6AN adapter at the filter inlet and used another -6AN pushlock hose barb to connect it. No leaks
Finally fixed my leaking, rusted fuel pump hanger assembly. The PO had patched the supply elbow with epoxy and it was a leaky mess. The tip of the supply and the entire return elbow snapped clean off when trying to remove the assembly from the tank:
I cleaned up the rust with phosphoric acid, drilled the hanger top for -6AN supply and -4AN return bulkhead fittings and added new submersible in-tank supply and return hoses:
I painted the top with rust-resistant enamel, cleaned and lubed the electrical connectors, added stainless mounting hardware and used pushlock hose barbs for the connections:
Here it is installed (sorry about the glare from the new gauge sender). Not the prettiest, but better than $600 for a new OEM hanger:
The rubber supply line bypasses the hard line and goes right to the fuel filter. I added a M14x1.5 to -6AN adapter at the filter inlet and used another -6AN pushlock hose barb to connect it. No leaks
I'm dreading the day I need to do this. Currently using two hose clamps on high pressure side, one on each side of the rib. How much time did you have on your work?
BEG
Adventurer
It's hard to say, since I have a "spare" Montero that I took the fuel pump hanger from so I was able to take my time. If you had all the parts and tools ready to go and you cleaned up the top of the hanger while it was still on the car, I'd say it could be done in 3-4 hours. If I had to do it on a running car I would do the following:
1) PB blast all of the hanger nuts until they spin freely (this could take days/weeks depending on how bad it is in there)
2) Thoroughly clean and de-rust the top of the tank and hanger
3) Plan where you will route your lines and make all of your connections (I connected the supply line to the filter, since there's very little room to work between the tank and the rear diff and m14x1.5 inverse flare adapters are expensive, but the rubber return line is easy to connect to the stock hard line)
4) Measure all the lines, cut them to length and push them onto the fittings (you get one chance)
5) Pull the hanger, modify it on the bench, and install it
6) Test it to make sure everything works and doesn't leak
7) Mask the hardware/electrical connectors and paint/rustproof it as desired
It's much easier to pull a junkyard hanger and do it all on the bench though.
brad2274
Adventurer
Replaced interior bulbs with LEDs for only $4 ! (map lights, passenger, and cargo) decent quality but ill probably add extras in the future, be careful if you take apart the cargo light as its spring and ball will shoot out.
Taking it to north Carolina in a few weeks for some camping, ive got decent A/T tires, not planning to do a bunch of trails but should i be concerned about not having snow tires or chains? (florida boy who's only driven pavement, beach, and dirt)
Taking it to north Carolina in a few weeks for some camping, ive got decent A/T tires, not planning to do a bunch of trails but should i be concerned about not having snow tires or chains? (florida boy who's only driven pavement, beach, and dirt)