What multi axis hitch do you prefer?

go4aryd

Adventurer
I use the Lock n Roll.... I have had no real problems with it so far. But its a pain to hook and unhook. I usually resort to beating it with a hammer

The Lock & Roll is a piece of cake compared to the MAX. I never needed a hammer for mine - I would just shake the vehicle a bit and on she'd drop.
 

teotwaki

Excelsior!
EDIT: leaving my post here but Martyn has fixed the link


I'll have one on line in a couple of weeks.

No binding is evident when we manipulate the coupler by hand.

There is some restriction in the downward movement due to interference between the shaft and the draw bar, but it's at such a sharp angle that it would never be encountered in "real life".


I know this is an old thread but the A/T video link appears to be broken Martyn

At this point in the web site http://www.adventuretrailers.com/knowledge_center.php

Scroll down to

TRAILER, GENERAL USAGE VIDEOS
A Series of videos on Hitching and unhitching your trailer, deploying and packing the Roof Top Tent, kitchen usage, fridge slides etc. "Click Here For The Video Section"

The "Click Here" link leads to this message

FOUR OH FOUR
404 File not found

Please update your bookmarks as we've completely rebuilt our website.
Apologies for any inconvenience.



Thanks!
 
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teotwaki

Excelsior!
I use the Lock n Roll.... I have had no real problems with it so far. But its a pain to hook and unhook. I usually resort to beating it with a hammer

I've not had to beat on mine but a Lazy (and Smart!) guy showed me how he just pulls the hitch pin from his receiver tube and lets the hitch assembly pull out. That relieves any minor binding on whatever hitch you are using.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
The Max coupler originally came in a 3500 lb Class II rating, and then was upgraded to 6000 lb Class III.

When the coupler was redesigned for the Class III some modifications were made to the yoke on the vehicle side, it was flared a little to make coupling easier.

Are people finding difficulty with the Class II coupler or the Class II coupler?

If you have one of the original Class II couplers grinding a slight bevel on the top of the yoke where the trailer side drops in may help out the situation.
 

go4aryd

Adventurer
Not sure which one you sent me, but it is flared on the vehicle side of the flange then narrows to an slight interference fit at the pin location moving towards the trailer.

(full disclaimer - having worked in remote equipment maintence/robotics years ago, I have a thing for engineering simple alignments. That may color my perception , but it is the sweat equity user experiance that I share).
 
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677 Sahara

New member
I'm old school. I'll stick with a pintle hitch. Noise not much and it tells me the trailer is still behind me. Turn up the stereo.
 

Borrego60

Rendezvous Conspiracy
I ended up grinding my Max on top so it also.makes hitching it up better and alittle faster.I love the hitch simple and it works great.
 

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