Which e350?

[deezdrama]

New plugs,new coils, seafoamed, fuel injector cleaner, new fuel filter, new pcv valve, cat is good, still runs like crap. Battery was unplugged for a week and cel light came back on instantly.
The damn scanner I ordered a week ago just shipped today
I really wanted to get the floor rust treated so I could start the interrior build (4 day weekend) but Im not sure if I should even start on the inside since its still running like crap.
Not to mention the eventual need to replace the radiator and a chirping pulley.

Looks like most of the "easy fixes" have been marked off.
Would bad o2 sensor, or bad iac make it run like total crap like its running on half the cylinders?

 

[tgreening]

New plugs,new coils, seafoamed, fuel injector cleaner, new fuel filter, new pcv valve, cat is good, still runs like crap. Battery was unplugged for a week and cel light came back on instantly.
The damn scanner I ordered a week ago just shipped today
I really wanted to get the floor rust treated so I could start the interrior build (4 day weekend) but Im not sure if I should even start on the inside since its still running like crap.
Not to mention the eventual need to replace the radiator and a chirping pulley.

Looks like most of the "easy fixes" have been marked off.
Would bad o2 sensor, or bad iac make it run like total crap like its running on half the cylinders?

Bad IAC can make it run funny for sure. Bad IACs on 2 different vehicles of mine yielded different symptoms. One acted as if the throttle was sticky. Wouldn't drop below 1100 rpm, but would do that sporadically. The other one had rough, surging idle issues. Relatively cheap easy part to replace though.

Not sure what faulty O2 sensor gives you.

 

[deezdrama]

Ya,my nephew had a taurus that we replaced iac.... I just remembered that. I was thinking it would only affect idle but remember he had total loss of power and acceleration.

Im going to buy another scanner. Pointless since i got one in the mail but need to make progress now with my 4 days off

 

[deezdrama]

Went to wallyworld and bought a scanner...the thing wont connect. It powers on when plugged in key off...wont connect,key forward wont connect,and engine running wont connect

 

[Bikersmurf]

Sounds like a dud.

 

[patoz]

This is a long shot, but something to consider and check off of the list, so here goes.

I have a 2004 F250 with the 6.8 ltr. VT10 Triton Engine. This is from my Owners Manual...

How fail-safe cooling works

If the engine begins to overheat:

• The engine coolant temperature gauge will move to the red (hot) area.
• The [Water] and [Temp] symbol will illuminate.
• The Service engine soon indicator light will illuminate.

If the engine reaches a preset over-temperature condition, the engine will automatically switch to alternating cylinder operation. Each disabled cylinder acts as an air pump and cools the engine. When this occurs the vehicle will still operate. However:

• The engine power will be limited.
• The air conditioning system will be disabled.

Continued operation will increase the engine temperature and the engine will completely shut down, causing steering and braking effort to increase. Once the engine temperature cools, the engine can be re-started. Take your vehicle to a service facility as soon as possible to minimize engine damage.

When fail-safe mode is activated

You have limited engine power when in the fail-safe mode, so drive the vehicle with caution. The vehicle will not be able to maintain high-speed operation and the engine will run rough. Remember that the engine is capable of completely shutting down automatically to prevent engine damage, therefore:

1. Pull off the road as soon as safely possible and turn off the engine.
2. Arrange for the vehicle to be taken to a service facility.
3. If this is not possible, wait a short period for the engine to cool.
4. Check the coolant level and replenish if low.

Never remove the coolant reservoir cap while the engine is running or hot.

2004 F250/350/450/550 (f23)
Owners Guide (post-2002-fmt)
USA English (fus)


Have you noticed any overheating, or is it possible this engine has overheated before you bought it, and the engine is stuck in the fail-safe mode?

 

[deezdrama]

It didnt overheat at all on the drive home when I bought it nor when i let it run in the driveway after putting all new plugs and coils in.

I drove it around the block and its weird, it has little power and doesnt want to get up to speed but sometimes it randomly snaps out of it and runs good for a few then boggs back down.

I hate to just keep throwing parts at it but cant get the scanner to connect. Thinking about buying a new iac.

I noticed when it was raining that its leaking in the front by the door hinge pillars causing the front floorboards to get wet.
Im wondering if its the windshield seal? Anyone know of leak prone areas on these?

Im feeling overwhelmed .... was hoping to rust treat and install insulation this weekend but its still not running right and now have leaks

 

[patoz]

This is just my opinion, but if I were you I would take it to a professional mechanic or even a dealer and have him/them look at it before I spent another dime on it. It may be somewhat expensive up front, but if you don't get the engine running right, the rest of it is totally irrelevant and you are just wasting money on it.

Sometimes, you just gotta take a step back and look at the big picture...

 

[deezdrama]

Yesterday I went and bought a new muffler to quiet this thing down so I could drive it somewhere to see if there scanner would connect to read the fault codes. While I was there I decided to grab a new iac. The old iac was full of carbon deposits and oil. The old pcv was also full of oil.... not sure what that indicates.
Anyway, after the iac was installed it definately is idling better but still acts like it has a miss when reving the engine.
I was looking/listening for any hissing or vacuum leaks while the engine was running and decided to unplug the MAF to see what it would do.
I expected it to either run like crap or run better once the maf was unplugged since the ecm should put it in default mode, but when I unplugged it , it made absolutely no change at all.
Im not sure if this means the maf is bad or that the ecm is already in default mode and so then is not reading from the maf.

I dont have the money to put it into a shop. Hopefully can get some codes pulled and at least have a better idea..
The scanner I bought connects to my other vehicles fine but will not connect to this van.

 

[Bbasso]

Where are you located? Maybe there is a member close to help...

 

[Navi]

Does the cigarette lighter work? Check the fuse that goes to it. Then retry scanner.

 

[deezdrama]

Yep....the cigarette lighter and the other 12v plug works fine

 

[deezdrama]

Ended up renting an innova scanner from autozone for $150. Connected no problems.
Fault code indicated driver cam shaft position sensor.
The previous owner has the wires spliced and duct taped at the connector for the cam sensor. Hopefully its just a bad connection.
At least ive got it pinpointed now

 

[Bikersmurf]

ouch.... I paid about $150 CAD to buy my Innova 3100 scanner. I've had no problems with it connecting. More recently I've seen them for $80-90.

Most shops only charge $70-80 to check the codes for you and tell you what's wrong.

I'm glad you've figured out where to look next. I'd use western union splices, solder, and heat shrink tubing to fix any cut wires. Cut insulation, paint on "electrical tape" might be the best option. If needed, get a new connector or one from a wrecker if it's too damaged.

 

[deezdrama]

Yeah... i planned to run by junkyard for a connector after work tomorrow. I got a huge amount of electrical supplies from an arcade machine I built last year so will definatelly solder and shrinkwrap at least.
Oh and it was $150 to rent. I got my money back but yea...that was a high price. They probably hope someone keeps it so they can buy two more lol