Which truck for me?

[Stryder106]

Hey guys, I'm a new poster. I've been trying to read and research a lot - now I come to you for advice. Please excuse me if this is the wrong place to ask.

I'm getting ready to finally pull the trigger on a truck, I would really like your opinions on which size/style truck would be best for me. I have a vision for what I want and I intend to do most of the work myself. I don't expect it to take any less than 5 years (and probably much longer) to reach the final result. At this point, I'm looking for sturdy, good bones to build on.

Here's a breakdown of what I'm eventually trying to accomplish:

• I will be living and traveling in this truck 100% of the time from day one; meaning I need to have a functional, livable truck right out the door.
• I prioritize in this order:

1. Performance
2. Durability
3. Reliability
4. Ride quality/comfort
5. 
   
6. 
   
7. Fuel efficiency
8. 
   
9. 
   
10. Cosmetics

Essentially, I care about how well the truck performs more than anything, followed closely by how much punishment it can take. I don't care at all about how much or little gas mileage it gets, and I care even less about how it looks.​

• I live in the desert and will be traveling extensively - on a daily basis the truck needs to be able to traverse most moderate/rugged desert roads at 40-60mph, climb some moderate trails, and still be street legal in California. I'm not expecting to accomplish JKU levels of crawling capability or Hammers trophy truck levels of long travel capability, but something decently ok at both and more of an emphasis on the LT side of things.
• I travel light and minimal, however I do expect to be under at least ~500-700lbs of load most/all the time.
• My budget for the base vehicle is $20,000, and again it needs to have at least some of that capability right out the gate.

I'm currently looking at used 1/2 ton RCSB trucks. Specifically I have my eye on a 2010 Sierra 1500 5.3 & a 2004 Ram 1500 5.7.

Any advice welcome, and again my apologies if this is the wrong place.

Hi - not wrong place at all. Fuel efficiency should be a concern as that efficiency will directly correlate to weight because you will need to have the fuel on board somehow to go distances deserts require (I've had to go as far as 408 miles between fuel stops). 500-700 lbs will go away really quick when you deduct: Your body weight (200, water, food, fuel, storage, bedding, recovery gear, second battery, winch, etc). Just your body weight, winch, second battery, and recovery gear will eat up 500lbs.

Ride quality and comfort are best in an IFS. The speeds you are mentioning over washboard are IFS. Mods can be made to handle the extra weight. I've plated my frame, bigger axles, trussed reared, stiffer springs, bigger shocks, bigger brakes, stronger wheels, thicker tires, etc. But, as mentioned - if you're starting from scratch and can get a 2500 right off the bat - you're ahead of the game because you won't have do as many mods - which will save your budget.

If you want to live full time in it, I'd get a hardshell popup - which again is more at home on 2500, but can live on a 1500. I use a RTT but I'm not full-time and desert winds have caused me a few sleepless nights.

Good luck - keep us posted.

 

[bcfre]

Hey all, thanks so much for all the replies.

A couple clarifying points:

• My budget is $20,000 for the base vehicle, the intent is to buy good bones/platform and invest on top of that over time
• I'm currently in a small car, so really any amount of space beyond that is an improvement. Just need some room to stretch out, and I hate constantly pitching/tearing down the tent. Also, desert wind is almost impossible to sleep through in anything soft.
• I'm planning on starting with just a camper shell and eventually designing/building something a little more custom for myself
• I'd like to reiterate that fuel economy means nothing to me as long as the truck is doing what I want to it do
• I traverse about 100-150 miles of desert a week, it ranges from hard packed washboard to rocky hills to soft sand. Currently beating the hell out of my 4cyl car at 5-10mph and then trekking things it can't handle, would love to upgrade that to 40-50mph and not really be limited on where I can go. Not expecting those results immediately
• I will constantly be hauling things, but rarely (if ever) towing

I've seen a lot of back and forth on IFS vs solid axle, still unsure on where to stand with it at the moment. I do value performance at speeds over rugged terrain more than things like technical trails/rock climbing, however I plan on doing at least a moderate amount of that. I'm hoping to build a truck that will withstand my day-to-day and week-to-week punishment, it doesn't necessarily need to hold up to obstacles that I need to go out of my way to find.

I value agility a lot so I'm going to check out a few smaller trucks this week (Tacoma, S10, etc). Also going to check out a few 3/4 ton SA (F250 & Ram 2500) to see which direction I'm leaning toward. My main concern with smaller trucks is the payload/weight restrictions (especially through my application) and the durability.

 

[bcfre]

Hi - not wrong place at all. Fuel efficiency should be a concern as that efficiency will directly correlate to weight because you will need to have the fuel on board somehow to go distances deserts require (I've had to go as far as 408 miles between fuel stops). 500-700 lbs will go away really quick when you deduct: Your body weight (200, water, food, fuel, storage, bedding, recovery gear, second battery, winch, etc). Just your body weight, winch, second battery, and recovery gear will eat up 500lbs.

Ride quality and comfort are best in an IFS. The speeds you are mentioning over washboard are IFS. Mods can be made to handle the extra weight. I've plated my frame, bigger axles, trussed reared, stiffer springs, bigger shocks, bigger brakes, stronger wheels, thicker tires, etc. But, as mentioned - if you're starting from scratch and can get a 2500 right off the bat - you're ahead of the game because you won't have do as many mods - which will save your budget.

If you want to live full time in it, I'd get a hardshell popup - which again is more at home on 2500, but can live on a 1500. I use a RTT but I'm not full-time and desert winds have caused me a few sleepless nights.

Good luck - keep us posted.

I had not thought about fuel efficiency as it correlates to distance. I don't imagine I'll be traveling more than 300 miles before refueling, however I'll keep that in mind when searching.

 

[rayra]

1500 short beds are typically 20-24gal tanks, the long beds and Tahoes / Subs are 28-32gal. Figure ~~12mpg for a 5.3L for a little safety margin.

 

[Rovertrader]

Sent you a pm....

 

[billiebob]

Please explain how you think IFS is unreliable/ poor durability? This has got to be the biggest myth running... I have zero issues with any of my IFS/IRS 4wd's

Oil Field work in Alberta. 30? pickups, 10 Fords, 10 Dodges, 10 Chevys. The boss wanted to compare them in the field. The Chevys got rebuilt front suspensions every year and got sold way before the Fords and Dodges which never needed rebuilds and got sold after 3 years with over 60K miles of Alberta gumbo. That was in the 1990s but solid axles still rule in the oilfield. Lots of guys love their Chevys but the Ford Super Dutys and the Heavy Rams have tougher suspensions.

I'll admit all those trucks get abused every day.

Now in the forestry in BC, at the cardlock watching the forestry workers fueling up, 9 in 10 pickups will be Dodge or Ford, 1 in 10 will be a GM product. No half tons and they all have 100 gallon tidy tanks.... or a few chainsaws and a half dozen gas cans.

 

[billiebob]

Hi - not wrong place at all. Fuel efficiency should be a concern as that efficiency will directly correlate to weight because you will need to have the fuel on board somehow to go distances deserts require

Yes, I'd sooner get there without having to dump gas in during a rain storm.

I made an accidental discovery last summer, I went from 33x10.50R15s to 7.50R16s.... real skinny 31s. My gas mileage went from 17mpg to 22mpg. Thats an extra 95 miles between gas stations. Or if you drive 12K miles a year. You save 160 gallons. Or of those 12K miles with the 33s, you get 3500 of them for free with pizza cutters.

Plus I gained a much smoother ride, with no negative losses of traction. All big wide tires do well is deliver floatation which makes gravel feel like marbles. There are times floatation is an enemy like at highway speeds thru slush and standing water. These skinny tires just slice thru it at 70mph.

 

[Stryder106]

Oil Field work in Alberta. 30? pickups, 10 Fords, 10 Dodges, 10 Chevys. The boss wanted to compare them in the field. The Chevys got rebuilt front suspensions every year and got sold way before the Fords and Dodges which never needed rebuilds and got sold after 3 years with over 60K miles of Alberta gumbo. That was in the 1990s but solid axles still rule in the oilfield. Lots of guys love their Chevys but the Ford Super Dutys and the Heavy Rams have tougher suspensions.

I'll admit all those trucks get abused every day.

Now in the forestry in BC, at the cardlock watching the forestry workers fueling up, 9 in 10 pickups will be Dodge or Ford, 1 in 10 will be a GM product. No half tons and they all have 100 gallon tidy tanks.... or a few chainsaws and a half dozen gas cans.

If you're carrying 100 gallons of extra fuel you had better have a 2500+. The original post specifically mentioned desert terrain as his dominant environment - and in that environment I would take an IFS any day - because a solid axle front for long distances on desert washboard isn't a whole lot of fun and whenever I've been out with a group it's always the solid axle guys who have problems with death wobble, etc.

Now - I'm not going to say a solid axle isn't good - because they are - just that specifically in a desert environment they aren't as effective or efficient as an IFS.

 

[Buliwyf]

Depends if he's carrying a camper out west. And I don't know how deep your washboard is, but Florida washboard is about 3" usually, and solid axles do well there. Beyond rippled sand, it becomes whoops. And no IFS GM or Toyota is going to fare any better without extreme mods.

I'd still prefer the F250+ solid axle in a sandy environment. They can be made to run quite well.

Death wobble is no problem. The people that still haven't figured it out shouldn't be posting in tech forums. I had a chump recently come back to me with a death wobble complaint. Brought me his alignment sheet, after I gave him numbers for his tech. Idiot alignment tech set the trucks toe to perfectly straight! We fixed that with a string and a tape measure.

Alignments are useless if your tech sets everything incorrectly.

I just got rid of a F350 with 200,000 miles of hard use, tons of powerline roads, gas lines, mud, and rural dirt roads. Abused it like I never would my own truck. Perfect alignment and joints were all in fair condition, but due for maintenance. Never touched the unit hub bearings. I did bring the sector gear in a hair, but that was a 30 minute free fix.

 

[Buddha.]

I will constantly be hauling things,

Like what? How heavy?

 

[billiebob]

The original post specifically mentioned desert terrain as his dominant environment - and in that environment I would take an IFS any day

No doubt, IFS will "outperform, run smoother" than a solid axle. but at speed, fully loaded, you will break something sooner with IFS components than a solid axle. Those of us recommending a solid axle also read the OPs desire for reliability and durability. It is all about priorities and compromize. IFSs are smoother performers on paved roads. Solid axles are more durable off road. On washboard every joint in the suspension is stressed. Yes an IFS will deliver a smoother higher performance ride, IFSs reduce unsprung weight. If your goal is ride, comfort, don't lift it, stick with wheels and tires no heavier than stock. Washboard is all about minimizing unsprung weight. Yes a solid axle is exponentially heavier, but there are very few joints to fail and by comparison to IFSs way fewer pieces to fail. What matters to you. How far away is a tow. How many tools and spare parts do you want to carry.

Ability to handle power.....
All the top dragsters use live axles. Formula One racers are fully independent.
The hottest 1/4 mile oval racers are all solid axles, they are driven to the extreme.
Rally cars are pretty much all independent all around. They also break often but they need peak performance just like a F1 car.

Solid axles are pretty much bulletproof and cheap to maintain.
IFSs are Cadillac rides, fabulous if not pushed by payload, washboard or articulation which is harder on IFSs than solid axles.

Compromize and choice. Only the OP knows which counts more.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I've seen a lot of back and forth on IFS vs solid axle, still unsure on where to stand with it at the moment.

I'd rank IFS vs solid axle low on criteria. While there are pros and cons in theory but the reality is it doesn't matter 99.9% of the time. What matters more is suspension and how well it's matched to your task, especially with washboard. Personally I've had both and was at the point in my previous truck that a solid axle swap was making sense but that was after already having gotten it through plenty of Rubicon-level stuff here (and actually it got through the Rubicon on 33" and IFS). With the new truck I've backed off the harder stuff and IFS isn't what limits the trails but rather growing more mature not needing to take as much risk breaking my truck (it's my only vehicle, daily driver) anymore.

 

[Cruisn]

No doubt, IFS will "outperform, run smoother" than a solid axle. but at speed, fully loaded, you will break something sooner with IFS components than a solid axle. Those of us recommending a solid axle also read the OPs desire for reliability and durability. It is all about priorities and compromize. IFSs are smoother performers on paved roads. Solid axles are more durable off road. On washboard every joint in the suspension is stressed. Yes an IFS will deliver a smoother higher performance ride, IFSs reduce unsprung weight. If your goal is ride, comfort, don't lift it, stick with wheels and tires no heavier than stock. Washboard is all about minimizing unsprung weight. Yes a solid axle is exponentially heavier, but there are very few joints to fail and by comparison to IFSs way fewer pieces to fail. What matters to you. How far away is a tow. How many tools and spare parts do you want to carry.

Ability to handle power.....
All the top dragsters use live axles. Formula One racers are fully independent.
The hottest 1/4 mile oval racers are all solid axles, they are driven to the extreme.
Rally cars are pretty much all independent all around. They also break often but they need peak performance just like a F1 car.

Solid axles are pretty much bulletproof and cheap to maintain.
IFSs are Cadillac rides, fabulous if not pushed by payload, washboard or articulation which is harder on IFSs than solid axles.

Compromize and choice. Only the OP knows which counts more.

As someone who is running a full IFS/IRS wagon weighing 400kg over GVM and traversing through Africa and Australia, I can vouch the only way ifs fails (if it fails) is lack of maintenance, which is just grease the damn thing, which we all know the oil patch boys do so well... im from Alberta originally and ran a chevy for my field service welding rig. so that is an unfair comparison as i never had issues, but also took care of my rig.

Anyways, as OP states in his first post, he wont be doing king of hammers, so a IFS will give you the 50mm of lift and some bigger rubber that will cover you in 95% of places. I have 50mm of lift with tyres that are 265/60r18 vs the factory 265/60r18 and have had zero issues anywhere I have traveled. get the heavier weight range of tyres and the sidewall survives just fine.

As for ride quality, it does ride like a Cadillac, and I like that. I haven't broken a beer bottle in my fridge ever, but my toyota mates have... jsut sayin.


Ability to handle power.....
All the top dragsters use live axles. Formula One racers are fully independent. - straight line racing doesn't require IRS
The hottest 1/4 mile oval racers are all solid axles, they are driven to the extreme. - sliding corners in cars made in a garage doesn't require IRS/IFS
Rally cars are pretty much all independent all around. They also break often but they need peak performance just like a F1 car. - Smashing a car level of IFS into a rock will ******** anything up.

That was possibly the worst comparison. Many people are travelling comfortably in nice light 4wds with IFR/IRS and zero issues. If I have a failure on my system I will message you.

On route through the remote parts of Namibia with my highly unreliable and non durable IFS/IRS setup, double the trouble.... LOL

 

[Stryder106]

Like I said - both are good - each have advantages and disadvantages. My IFS is far from stock and I had put more than 48000 dirt miles on it with never a problem - but I'm also a maintenance fanatic. So - for the OP - my recommendation is - get which truck you like and whether it has IFS or SA don't let that be your determining factor.

Ad yes - if your alignment tech can't properly align a vehicle - it's time to shop elsewhere.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Back to the OP's first post, he says "living and traveling in this truck 100% from day one." Sounds to me like a van would be a better choice than any pickup. Sleeping in the bed of a truck is OK but gets old after a short time. No headroom unless you get a high-rise topper and even then there are still a lot of compromises.