Willman's Bantam BT3-C Expedition Trailer Buildup

Maximus Ram

Expedition Leader
Looks real good....have a question , though....from what I have been seeing on the trailers, there is a prefernce to having the hinge on the side and not the front...is there a specific reason ?

Thanks
Matt
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
FWIW consider something other than WD-40 for the hinge. Based on my experiences in cleaning customer firearms that were lubed with it, it isn't all that great at keeping the crud out.

My lube de jour is Maxima Motorcycle Chain Wax which isn't wet or sticky/gummy once the solvent has evaporated. The only failure place for it so far has been the door limiters in the Suburban.

Matt, I suspect that an end opening lid would be harder to open due to where the CG of an RTT would be. Could be offset with higher lift value gas springs.....
 

gpwpat

Adventurer
How stiff is your lid? I used angle iron for my lid and skinned it. it is very flexable. I flat mounted my tent on the lid with rubber mounts but it was still to flexable so I took the rubber pads out and now the structure of the tent has really stiffened up the lid. This works fine but now I want to put a rack rails in so I can haul other things on the Trailer Like a couple of bikes.

My next version of a lid will be similar to the adventure trailer lid. so I can get taller stuff in there. I am at my limit. and still wish to put more stuff in there.

also If you change your gas strut location or length you can really get it to open up. Seems like a tight squeese to pack it at that angle.

What are you doing with your old fenders? need to sell them?

Here is mine so you can see how wide you can get it to open with a different arangement of struts.
DSC05108.JPG


The 1800 is a great tent. perfect size for the trailer and my family.

When I built my lid I wanted it to open from the side as it allows easier access. you don't have to reach as far to get to everything. Another possible reason is if your tent hinges on the same side as the lid hinge you can open your trailer with the tent deployed, rather than fold up the tent then open the traler. This is one more thing I discovered after the fact. I need to turn my tent around.


Hey does anybody know if the dimensions on a Adventure trailer lid are similar to a Bantam. Could one be retrofitted to work?
 
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Maximus Ram

Expedition Leader
I was just curious , because the trailer that i aquired for free is made from an old Willys truck bed w/ tailgate and seeing how xtra bracing was needed to put the strut in got me to thinking. But that would make sense on it being able to open when the RTT is deployed.

Thanks
 

Willman

Active member
Thanks guys for the kind words!

gpwpat said:
How stiff is your lid?

Solid! I used 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" tube instead of the 1"x1" as i said earlyer......My shop guys gave me the wrong stuff on the our metal rack and i went to town on the 1 1/4" tube with my frame on my lid.....:oops:

I really like the 1 1/4" tube better than the 1" stuff.....It feels more solid.

gpwpat said:
also If you change your gas strut location or length you can really get it to open up. Seems like a tight squeese to pack it at that angle.

With the lid open...i have 2' opening...I also have a trailgate....I going to make the rear cross bar removeable for those big items....

DSC04031.jpg



gpwpat said:
What are you doing with your old fenders? need to sell them?

Love to sell them...PM sent


;)
 

Willman

Active member
Draw latch

I'm a McMaster fan.....

Just ordered 2 of their SS lockable Draw Latch #12435A43 on pg. 2915 to keep my lid down.....

This baby has a load rating of 1100 lbs.......I only got this one due to the padlock hole size being big enough for my locks....Other words....Depending on what type of lock you want to run...you could get the smaller size for less $$$.

13435A430L.gif


:jumping:
 

Tucson T4R

Expedition Leader
Those latches are the same type that are on my KK trailer lid. I have 3 on each side and they work great. When stored in my garage, I keep them loose so as to not compress the seals. Then I tighten them down before heading out on a trip. Nice choice IMHO
 

Willman

Active member
Tucson T4R said:
Those latches are the same type that are on my KK trailer lid. I have 3 on each side and they work great. When stored in my garage, I keep them loose so as to not compress the seals. Then I tighten them down before heading out on a trip. Nice choice IMHO

Brad...Thanks for the infor.!

You Rock!

Your my ice cream hero!.....(It's a ET thing)...lol

:camping:
 

IZZYDUSIT

Adventurer
Nice choice Nic, I have looked at those when I built mine but could not come up of a mounting idea because of the angle between the lid lip and the tub body. It seems as though you'll need a straight up and down angle between the two parts. I thought about building a spacer plate for that reason, but seemd like too much of a problem.
I'd love to see your solution when you come up with one bud. to lock my lid I just drilled a hole into the lid,framework and inserted a ballmount lock. I saw the method here on the trailer forum a while back and it looked like a simple solution.
 

Tucson T4R

Expedition Leader
Willman said:
.................Your my ice cream hero!.....(It's a ET thing)...lol

:camping:

:jump: That was fun being able to hand out ice cream in 90+ degree desert heat to all the children.........both the young and old ones. :shakin:
 

Willman

Active member
IZZYDUSIT said:
Nice choice Nic, I have looked at those when I built mine but could not come up of a mounting idea because of the angle between the lid lip and the tub body. It seems as though you'll need a straight up and down angle between the two parts. I thought about building a spacer plate for that reason, but seemd like too much of a problem.
I'd love to see your solution when you come up with one bud.

Your right on the $$$$$

First, going to see what i'm up against when the parts get here.....

Few options:

  • Spacer plate bolted on the trailer box (straight up and down angle between the two parts)
  • See if the latch can pull off that angle....Might have to fab up a shim on the top (lid) part at an angle to take some of the stress off

The parts should get here soon.....I'll make something work......Gotta love custom work!!!!

Keep ya posted

:26_7_2:
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Is the discussion about those draw-latches being able to pull at angle other than 90* relative to, say, the seal surface?

If so, I don't see any issue beyond being able to actually be able to get the bail over the anchor. There will be a loss in clamping strength in the vertical plane (trig), but I somehow doubt that's an issue with these in this application. :)
 

Willman

Active member
Just about pulled an all-nigher......

DSC04099.jpg


Got lots done!

-Pulled fenders off...AT ones be here next month

-Got my draw hatches mounted...used a piece of small "c" channel 1 1/2" wide and 3" long. Gives the hatches 1/2" spacer. Works and looks great...

-Drilled and installed bolts on the rear leg for the gas lid shock. Used 5/16 bolts.

-Primed & Painted the lid. Used undercoating spray under the lid to keep the tin can sound down a little....

Sorry for the lack of pictures....Forgot my camera......But did stop by the shop today and took this shot above.

:26_7_2:
 

Willman

Active member
Willman said:
I'm a McMaster fan.....

Just ordered 2 of their SS lockable Draw Latch #12435A43 on pg. 2915 to keep my lid down.....

This baby has a load rating of 1100 lbs.......I only got this one due to the padlock hole size being big enough for my locks....Other words....Depending on what type of lock you want to run...you could get the smaller size for less $$$.

13435A430L.gif


:jumping:


DSC04163.jpg


The latch turned out great!!!!

:)
 

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