Alex said:
Is there anything else I should plate or reinforce? I was hoping I had already exposed all of the weaknesses found in the Cherokee platform.
How much lift are you running...5", 6"? One thing (which seems evident that you already know), that stock Y steering is weak. An easy fab up for steering is to use some .250 wall 1.5" DOM and build a wheel to wheel tie rod using some 3/4 ton GM TRE's.
Then using the same material you could either fab the drag link to attach to the tie rod somewhere toward the passenger end...or do like I did and use a Blazer passenger TRE that has provisions for a steering stabilizer mount that can be reamed out for a standard TRE instead.
If your not running too high a lift, then you could be just fine with the stock Y setup, as long as it's upgraded in the strength area. I have never liked the Y design though cause as your wheel travels up and down, the toe of the wheel also changes...which is why when you lift an XJ, because of this design, the tires toe in at the front due to the increased angle of the drag link.
Here's what mine looks like:
Definitely (if you already haven't), plate up both sides of the frame at the steering box, and use sleeves through the frame for the 3 bolts so you can really crank them down without squishing the frame.
Mine's part of the bumper brackets:
BTW....that broken main leaf is the reason why you should carry at least 2 or 3 pairs of Vise-Grips in with your trail gear. I'd prefer the C-clamp type with the little flat swivel feet on the jaws. They work great for clamping the leaf back against the rest of the pack, to at least limp it off the trail.
Another area would be the upper frame mount for the track bar. It looks like your still running the stock mount, which is ok, but you might want to think about getting an HD mount. But don't stop there. You should also plate the outer face of the frame at this mount (you can incorporate this with the outer plate that you put on for the steering box). Then after you bolt the HD mount in place....WELD it on. IMO, anything that is an OEM "bolted on" condition that you don't think you'll ever have to constantly remove...should also be welded on. Not only is it stronger now that it's welded, but if the welds do fail, you still have all the bolts through it to keep you going.
Ok, I have rambled on enough...there are alot more tech pics
HERE that can show you even more shots of the steering and other things that I could be forgeting.
