Yet another 109 build Thread

aka rover

Adventurer
I may still do that I have it setup now for left hand brake, but I may wait till me seats get here I picked up a set off of the Source from a D90 for a little extra comfort.

Ok I see what you mean it appears that the hole on the driver side is missing but its just the angle
 
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aka rover

Adventurer
I decided to build my axles as I had parts laying everywhere and I really wanted to see the ROAM offroad bits all bolted up! So now all my axle parts are ready to bolt in.

For now due to funds im running a disco rear carrier with an ARB spacer ring to get my 4.7 and upgrade to 24 spline, Alaska Mike had a new set of Series Trek axles laying around so I decided to go this route for now as my salsbury has 3.54s in it and I have another project for that. The front is still 10 spline but that will be 24 spline when I install lockers at a later date.
 

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Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
Glad to see the parts are getting the attention they deserve. That is going to be one fun rig when you're done.
 

blue bomber

Adventurer
Looks nice. I dig those hubs, they are dreadfully stylish. Did you convert to the double bearing set up on the swivel balls?
 

aka rover

Adventurer
Glad to see the parts are getting the attention they deserve. That is going to be one fun rig when you're done.

Thanks Mike

Yours is next!

Looks nice. I dig those hubs, they are dreadfully stylish. Did you convert to the double bearing set up on the swivel balls?


I just had to use these hubs I have always liked them, where the gray is was chrome when I got them and that had to go. As for the swivel balls I didnt do the double bearing this time. I figured when I upgraded to 24 spline and CVs I would do it then.
 

aka rover

Adventurer
Well I managed to get the tranny and Tcase ready to go in, So I pulled the mock up units out and installed the ones I will be running. I am going to be installing an overdrive in the near future.

And the AA T-case adapter allows the use of pto or OD units as if it was a stock tranny. I found A cool fill plug plate on one of my old cases and installed it just in case it leaks in the future I can get to the fill plug with ease.
 

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aka rover

Adventurer
I have a question for you Expo types, this rig is gong to be a long range driver and was going to put batteries under the pass seat. But after a little thinking I think that a fuel tank would be a better choice. I was planning on just a couple extra jerry cans for extended drives but now im thinking I really dont need two reserve batteries for the rig and one extra would be more than plenty.

I have the outriggers for the 88 size tank and and a extra tank, and I think even a military type tank that fills from under seat. Any thoughts or comments would be great

Cheers Ed
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
Which tank do you have? If all you have is the passenger seat tank, I would get a rear tank with the second battery. TeriAnn detailed that CJ tank swap on her site, which is a possibility for my own project. Either that, or a custom rear tank.

The need for a second battery really depends on your electrical needs. Other than the 8274, what are you going to have that will require extra juice?
 

aka rover

Adventurer
Mike I have the rear tank in the back its the factory one, As far as power goes I always carry a ready welder so I will need a second battery but think I can get it under the seat as well. So both batteries under the drivers seat.

we plan on traveling around with the=is one day and will live in it for a month or two at a time. So we will have reading lights a arb fridge power inverter for AC power etc.

I ran the exhaust out the driver side just in case I do decided to run somthing under the pass seat.
 

aka rover

Adventurer
I got some stuff done on the rover got the motor resealed and installed in the chassis.
I also got the exhaust started
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aka rover

Adventurer
While I was resealing the motor I cropped the oil pan A little to help with clearance.

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I also finished up the some more of the wireing and got the fuse block about done I still need to wire loom all wireing and fasten it down for the long haul.


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LR Max

Local Oaf
You are asking about batteries. Unless your Alaskan experience says otherwise, I think having one decent sized battery will work just fine. I've been running 2 batteries in parallel for years now. No problems, plenty of power for a dead engine pull as well as enough to crank afterwards. Also enough juice to move the vehicle with the starter motor + 1st gear + low range (on pavement). However this is all in the southeastern part of the US. I have no idea what Alaska is like on batteries.
 

tacr2man

Adventurer
Do you intend to wrap the downpipe or put a heat shield to protect the starter and solenoid ? , as would probably be a good time to do ,
Re fuel tank and battery locations , I put a truck diesel in a 109 about 30yrs back , and as i wanted max fuel capacity I fitted sw tank at rear , to supplement the original under driver and third tank under passenger seat (like MOD 109) I then mounted twin batteries in tray where centre front seat goes with cover on top (same a MOD radio vehicles) cubby box was then mounted on top of that . HTSH

(MOD = military)
 

berg

Observer
What kind of condition is your OM617 in?

What year and vehicle did it come out of?

great build btw
 

aka rover

Adventurer
What kind of condition is your OM617 in?

What year and vehicle did it come out of?

great build btw

Thanks

The motor is out of a 1983 benz sedan 300D I bought a complete car so I was able to drive the motor first.

I took the head off and resealed everything and the motor still has cross hatch in the cylinders. The chain was stretched a bit so I am installing an offset woodruff key to get it back in spec. It appears to be a good motor but only time will tell
.
You are asking about batteries. Unless your Alaskan experience says otherwise, I think having one decent sized battery will work just fine. I've been running 2 batteries in parallel for years now. No problems, plenty of power for a dead engine pull as well as enough to crank afterwards. Also enough juice to move the vehicle with the starter motor + 1st gear + low range (on pavement). However this is all in the southeastern part of the US. I have no idea what Alaska is like on batteries.

Im going to run the batteries in parallel through a blueseas selector switch so if I want to run a battery as a camp battery I can and still have a backup in the morning and also have two for winching and cold starts.


Do you intend to wrap the downpipe or put a heat shield to protect the starter and solenoid ? , as would probably be a good time to do ,
Re fuel tank and battery locations , I put a truck diesel in a 109 about 30yrs back , and as i wanted max fuel capacity I fitted sw tank at rear , to supplement the original under driver and third tank under passenger seat (like MOD 109) I then mounted twin batteries in tray where centre front seat goes with cover on top (same a MOD radio vehicles) cubby box was then mounted on top of that . HTSH
(MOD = military)

Yes I am going to wrap the down pipe as well as put some heat shield on the fire wall as well the motor has to come out one more time and I will wrap it then.
Very good idea there I think I have a MOD tank in my stash of parts, im thinking I want to keep the center of seat box open for trans and Tcase service. Im going to mount the batteries under drivers seat and fuel under passenger seat
 

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