Yet Another Bolt-Together Fiberglass Trailer Kit

[jscherb]

Does that mean your back on the project!!!!! let us know man, were all waiting lol

Nothing's really changed from my last post a few weeks ago, I'm still working on finishing up some things with the CJ Grille Kit before I can start this project. I'll probably start on the molds for the trailer tub in mid-November.

 

[jscherb]

I'm working on the configuration for the first prototype trailer I plan to build from the military tub molds. I decided I want to include some jerry cans in the configuration, so to be able to experiment with some placement and bracket ideas, I made up some 1/4 scale model cans for the model trailer.

Probably the best idea is to mount them on the tongue. On the authentic military M416 and M100 trailers, if you mount jerry cans on the tongue, they'll stick up higher than the rim of the tub, because of the height of the tongue and the height of the tub. Since I've made the tub a few inches taller than the original military tub, and because the HF frame has a tongue that attaches below the main frame, the top of the cans are lower than the edge of the tub.

Here's a shot with the HF tongue box added. There's a space between the cans/behind the box that is begging for some purpose. Not sure what to put there yet.

I also thought about mounting the cans on the side of the tub, but even with the extended height my my tub design, the can is too tall - the bottom will hang below the frame. Not sure that's a good idea for trail clearance.

 

[Mark Harley]

Just go with 2.5 gallon cans.

 

[jscherb]

Just go with 2.5 gallon cans.

Yes, those would work nicely on the sides of the tub, but I try to do all my designs with easily obtainable and very affordable components.

Five-gallon cans are cheap and easy to find, I picked up three this week for $10 each.

One of the main design goals of this project is affordability, so that if it becomes a production kit the price and configurations can be within the reach of many more people than the trailers that are currently on the market.

 

[jscherb]

Had to put the HF tarp on too. Don't have a 1/4 scale model of that, so it's digitally installed .

 

[M35A2]

I don't really know how to answer that question. I don't know how to answer this one either: will a dump run scratch or dent a military M416 tub? Or would it scratch or dent one of the high-end expedition trailers?

It all depends on what you're taking to the dump and how you throw it into the tub.

If you're running a metal recyling business and plan to use a trailer on a daily basis for hauling scrap metal around, or you're running a landscaping business and need to carry loads of topsoil and paver bricks, then a fiberglass tub probably wouldn't be the best choice.

If you're looking for a lightweight, inexpensive, easy-to-build and customize recreational trailer which may be used occasionally for other hauling duties, then a fiberglass tub can be an excellent choice.

I sometimes use my M416 for a dump run. I simply throw a couple of skids inside to protect the floor. I either cut down a standard skid or, when I find them, use skids used for IT equipment that fit perfectly.

 

[M35A2]

As nice as your original Jeep-like trailer designs are, these are even nicer.

I agree that angular fenders are the way to go, especially since they could be used on an actual M416 (or other home-built).

M416s have two floor spring-loaded drains - one front and one rear - that can be opened or closed from underneath. Closed, the unit floats and open, peksy rain water can be drained.

While I am sure that you would want the fiberglass tubs to be one piece with no openings, offhand can you think of any way floor drains could be incorporated (for folks not going with a tail gate)?

 

[M35A2]

Had to put the HF tarp on too. Don't have a 1/4 scale model of that, so it's digitally installed .

How about the tongue box mounted flat to the tub, and the Gerry cans mounted along side the tongue box? Then a small battery box could be added in front of the tongue box.

 

[M35A2]

One other thought: it can be difficult to find a place to mount a license plate on a stock M416 in a place where it looks good, accomodates a tag lamp, and is not susceptible to damage.

With the wider fenders you are contemplating, it should be possible to mount a license plate on a fender. With stock fenders, the plate would either stick out or have to be mounted sideways.

 

[jscherb]

As nice as your original Jeep-like trailer designs are, these are even nicer.

Thank you.

I agree that angular fenders are the way to go, especially since they could be used on an actual M416 (or other home-built).

I haven't decided if I'll do M416-style angular fenders for the first prototype, or if I'll use rounded M100-style fenders. Probably won't decide that until I've got the tub molded.

M416s have two floor spring-loaded drains - one front and one rear - that can be opened or closed from underneath. Closed, the unit floats and open, peksy rain water can be drained.

While I am sure that you would want the fiberglass tubs to be one piece with no openings, offhand can you think of any way floor drains could be incorporated (for folks not going with a tail gate)?

The tubs won't be one piece, they'll bolt-together and consist of two side panels, two end panels and a floor panel. There will be "solid" end panels and tailgate end panels, and a tub can be assembled with one of each, two solid panels (like the military M416) or two tailgate end panels (for carrying long things sticking out of both ends? ) The panels can be bonded together/sealed if a watertight floating tub was desired.

About drains, how about putting a couple of marine drain plugs in the floor?

 

[jscherb]

How about the tongue box mounted flat to the tub, and the Gerry cans mounted along side the tongue box? Then a small battery box could be added in front of the tongue box.

That's a good idea.

 

[jscherb]

One other thought: it can be difficult to find a place to mount a license plate on a stock M416 in a place where it looks good, accomodates a tag lamp, and is not susceptible to damage.

With the wider fenders you are contemplating, it should be possible to mount a license plate on a fender. With stock fenders, the plate would either stick out or have to be mounted sideways.

Yes, the wider fenders I'm planning would be wide enough to fit a license plate without having it stick out. And since they can be installed on an original M416 to provide coverage for wider tires, that would be a solution for original M416's too.

 

[ManleyORV]

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/LPL55CB.html That's the one we use; works great.

 

[M35A2]

Thank you.


I haven't decided if I'll do M416-style angular fenders for the first prototype, or if I'll use rounded M100-style fenders. Probably won't decide that until I've got the tub molded.


The tubs won't be one piece, they'll bolt-together and consist of two side panels, two end panels and a floor panel. There will be "solid" end panels and tailgate end panels, and a tub can be assembled with one of each, two solid panels (like the military M416) or two tailgate end panels (for carrying long things sticking out of both ends? ) The panels can be bonded together/sealed if a watertight floating tub was desired.

About drains, how about putting a couple of marine drain plugs in the floor?

That's a really good idea. They could be in the floor or down low on a side or end panel.

 

[M35A2]

Yes, the wider fenders I'm planning would be wide enough to fit a license plate without having it stick out. And since they can be installed on an original M416 to provide coverage for wider tires, that would be a solution for original M416's too.

Excellent!

With the wider fenders, is the trailer wider than a Jeep? (Or does that depend on the Jeep? My M416 seems exactly as wide as my YJ.)