Yeti and the Marshmallow

Basement Yeti

Explorer
Sweet!!

The hot wire for the camera and monitor came with in-line fuses, I will check tomorrow for those two open spots before I do anything.
 

MrBeast

Explorer
Sweet!!

The hot wire for the camera and monitor came with in-line fuses, I will check tomorrow for those two open spots before I do anything.

On my wrecker that is where I tied in all the wiring for all of my accsessories, works great, and everything is protected by a fuse.
 

Basement Yeti

Explorer
Ok I just went out to my van but there is a bolt holding holding the fuse box under the hood in place and it's dark, so first thing tomorrow morning I will check for those free spaces. I just did a bit of Googling and chances are good my van has them.

So what, I just wrap the bare wire ends around the screws in there and tighten them?

Then all I need to do is solder the hot wires to them after I snake them through the van and find a place to ground those black wires, right? Easy.

I've never soldered so I'll buy more wire than I need and practice.
 

Basement Yeti

Explorer
Why not just tap into the radio harness since the camera is going to be connected to a navigation unit?

Well, because if I can tap directing into the battery it will be cleaner.

you want crimp connectors, they make ring terminals that will crimp on the end of the wire, and then will fit over the stud so you can bolt it down.

http://www.baumanns.ie/images/Crimp-Connectors.jpg

Ok, so I need a crimper?

I just went down and bought a soldering iron, some 18 gauge wire, some electrical tape, and some solder. But the wire is the wrong size, I need 20-22 and different solder to match, I think.
 

Basement Yeti

Explorer
Well I was just going to wire it to a 12V plug, but Mr. Beast seems to think I'm capable. I'll have my neighbor look over my work before I make the system hot. Thanks for your concern though.
 

MrBeast

Explorer
Well I was just going to wire it to a 12V plug, but Mr. Beast seems to think I'm capable. I'll have my neighbor look over my work before I make the system hot. Thanks for your concern though.

I actually have some conserns, wiring is something that when you mess it up, it will haunt you for a long time, expecially if you cut the wrong wire.

I do figure you can handle it, but its going to take some pointers along the way because it is something that is easy to mess up, and the downside is messing it up can cause fires.

You dont want a toasted marshmellow!

When you are at radio shack, a small electronics handbook would be good reading.
 

Basement Yeti

Explorer
I'm fairly confident in my abilities.

As long as the connections are done properly, the right supplies are used, and the wires are secured properly it'll be fine. I'll have a pro look it over though, don't worry.
 

Basement Yeti

Explorer
I would appreciate it if people weren't so nasty when giving me advice, there's no need to be snippy when giving advice. Everything I searched up on Google said that solder was the best connection to use in a vehicle for wire splicing. No one seemed to disagree when I mentioned solder so I assumed that solder would be the best bet.
 

MrBeast

Explorer
I would appreciate it if people weren't so nasty when giving me advice, there's no need to be snippy when giving advice. Everything I searched up on Google said that solder was the best connection to use in a vehicle for wire splicing. No one seemed to disagree when I mentioned solder so I assumed that solder would be the best bet.

In a perfect world yes.

In a practical world crimp connectors.

The only place you want to use solder is if you are replaince a pig tail on a sensor on the engine.
 

bat

Explorer
What is wrong with soldering and using shrink tube over the joint .
 
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Basement Yeti

Explorer
Well I just got off the phone with my mechanic (He's actually a jack of all trades) He says that using a solder on a vehicle is bad bad bad. Most applications where crimping is used are applications with multi-directional movement like vibration, the military, race cars, etc. The reason soldering isn't good is because you create a hardened connection at the terminal between the two wires, and hard surfaces transmit vibration which can eventual lead to micro cracks in the solder and failures in the connection.

Bleh.

I'm going down in a bit to return all this **** before I set myself on fire like a **************. And swinging by mechanic for some pointers. Apparently he doesn't want me setting myself on fire like a ************** either.
 

wrcsixeight

Adventurer
The only place you want to use solder is if you are replaince a pig tail on a sensor on the engine.

Just a FYI,
I've recently read about how some oxygen sensors get need to get their air through the wiring and should not be soldered, so getting a universal O2 sensor and soldering the connections to the oem connector is not a good idea.

I'd just spend the extra for a O2 sensor with the oem connector supplied.

The outside of the bulb is exposed to the hot gases in the exhaust while the inside of the bulb is vented internally through the sensor body to the outside atmosphere. Older style oxygen sensors actually have a small hole in the body shell so air can enter the sensor, but newer style O2 sensors "breathe" through their wire connectors and have no vent hole. It is hard to believe, but the tiny amount of space between the insulation and wire provides enough room for air to seep into the sensor (for this reason, grease should never be used on O2 sensor connectors because it can block the flow of air). Venting the sensor through the wires rather than with a hole in the body reduces the risk of dirt or water contamination that could foul the sensor from the inside and cause it to fail.

Quote from:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm
 

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