Yeti and the Marshmallow

Basement Yeti

Explorer
How is this stuff for sealing my roof vent and other stuff when I install them?
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-CARTRIDGE/dp/B000XBFCUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1301015745&sr=8-1"]Amazon.com: 3M(TM) Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 5200 06520, White, 1/10 Gallon [PRICE is per CARTRIDGE]: Industrial & Scientific[/ame]

They sell little ones at Home Depot, I might grab one to seal those holes in the floor where the bulkhead isn't.

Trying to get my shopping list for tomorrow sorted...
 

wrcsixeight

Adventurer
3m 5200 should be considered permanent. If you ever need to remove it you will need grinding disks on an angle grinder.

Even the fast cure cures pretty slow. The regular stuff takes forever.

Once the container is open, you must use it within 72 hours.
 

Basement Yeti

Explorer
That will work for those pesky holes in my floor. :sombrero:

I guess I will need something else for the sealing stuff. Any suggestions?
 

Basement Yeti

Explorer
If they are RV type vents, use RV vent sealant. They have a Butyl tape to go under the flange, and a tube of goo to go over the screws.
http://www.rvpartscenter.com/DeptSelect.asp?SID=9

Link isn't working, but I get what you mean.

also check out

http://www.campingworld.com
http://www.westmarine.com

oh and for info on life on the road

www.thelonglonghoneymoon.com kind of neat to see what they did. Kind of a honeymoon expo.

I looked on Amazon but couldn't find anything I was completely satisfied with that would serve my purpose, but that kit on Camping World is specified for metal roofs. I'll definitely get it from there, thanks.

Also, that last link is cool, I like their trailer.
 

Basement Yeti

Explorer
I took a nap in my van today. I think best when I nap.

I'm abandoning the cotton insulation idea. It's a crappy stupid idea and I don't know how I ever fooled myself into thinking it would work. Unlike most cargo vans these Astro vans have these bizarre cookie cutter jigsaw looking cutouts in their sheet metal. Even if I spent hours stuffing these gaps in the ribs with cotton insulation there is no guarantee that moisture won't get in there even with a vapor barrier and cause a mould problem.

I can't even stuff the back, side, or front doors with cotton insulation because again, there are tons of tiny little holes and escapes.

I even found WATER inside my driver side rear quarter panel where the metal separated a bit and allowed moisture in. I need to drill a hole in there to drain it and patch it.

So what is my solution? ****** it, I'm going with expanding foam. It's the most logical solution. It's water proof, it expands, it will fill every nook and cranny, etc.

It's just not worth spending hours of time gluing bunches of cotton to the walls, stuffing the jigsaw puzzle looking rips with cotton insulation, spraying the van with nasty stinky spray adhesive, and trying to fight off moisture in the walls and door panels.

No thanks.

Secondly, I won't be painting the interior of the van. I sat on my hands to decide what to do and there are a handful of gouged up bare metal spots and a few rusted spots, it'd be a waste of money to paint the entire interior.

I'm just going to buy a small little can of some kind of rust inhibiting brush on paint or spray paint and treat the problem spots.

KISS, keep is stupid simple, no need to pound in a nail with a daisy cutter. Ya know?

With that said I will be filling the unused bolt holes from my bulkhead with 3M 5200 Marine adhesive, as well as the leaking gap in my driver side quarter panel, and a few other weird spots inside my door. Then treating the bare metal and rust spots after a good scouring with some Scotch Bright pads, and spray foaming the entire interior. I have some e-mails out to see if the expanding foam will cause squeaking, just to be sure.

Learning experiences, yay.
 

MrBeast

Explorer
Just a thought but on the walls why not go with upholstry foam? It will be way less mess, use some spray foam to fill the smaller voids, and skip a spray foam disaster.

The thing you need to be careful with spray foam is that it expands. Because it expands, if you spray it in a place with no room for expansion, it can push the seams of your van apart and even break the spot welds.

Id go with the PVC Dow foam on the floor in the plywood sandwich like I previously mentioned, use the upholstry foam on the walls, then put a plastic vapor barrier on the inside over it to keep any mosture that comes from your breath/sweat condensating out of the foam.

Tuck tape everything, then put plywood (or plexi) up over it, and stain or paint to suit.

Also before you insulate you need to think about wiring, you will want to prewire everything that is going on your 12v system.

They make 12V flourescents, id put 2 of them in the top of the van, also they have 12V LED rope lights, you could put those around the top to give you some nice ambient lighting.

Also things like reading lights, 12v outlets, what all are you going to need?

You need to preplan for this before you insulate and cover the interior in, or you will be taking it out and doing it again.

Check out JC whitney, they have a lot of 12V light stuff, so does camping world.

Also, you planning on any kind of running water in the van or a gas connection for a stove?
 

Basement Yeti

Explorer
Just a thought but on the walls why not go with upholstry foam? It will be way less mess, use some spray foam to fill the smaller voids, and skip a spray foam disaster.

The thing you need to be careful with spray foam is that it expands. Because it expands, if you spray it in a place with no room for expansion, it can push the seams of your van apart and even break the spot welds.

Id go with the PVC Dow foam on the floor in the plywood sandwich like I previously mentioned, use the upholstry foam on the walls, then put a plastic vapor barrier on the inside over it to keep any mosture that comes from your breath/sweat condensating out of the foam.

Tuck tape everything, then put plywood (or plexi) up over it, and stain or paint to suit.

Also before you insulate you need to think about wiring, you will want to prewire everything that is going on your 12v system.

They make 12V flourescents, id put 2 of them in the top of the van, also they have 12V LED rope lights, you could put those around the top to give you some nice ambient lighting.

Also things like reading lights, 12v outlets, what all are you going to need?

You need to preplan for this before you insulate and cover the interior in, or you will be taking it out and doing it again.

Check out JC whitney, they have a lot of 12V light stuff, so does camping world.

Also, you planning on any kind of running water in the van or a gas connection for a stove?

On the walls where I have those big flat open spots where I would have to glue insulation to get it to stay before I panel it is one of the areas I decided spray foam would be best. Talking with the guy at Tiger Foam he says it's pretty easy to fill big flat areas like that and to start with less, and I can always add more, and trim to panel. As for the nooks and crannies being over filled and ripping welds apart, I was warned by the guy at Tiger Foam about that. He recommends using very small amounts of the foam in those areas because I can always add more, and the foam will always expand front to back, so he said stick the nozzle in there all the way to the deepest point and give it a quick squeeze, wait, repeat if needed to prevent over filling. Places like my door panels will be ideal for that too because there is just no way to prevent ALL water seepage and moisture.

One reason I want to stay away from foam, and cotton batting in the walls and stuff is just because moisture is so big of a problem in these vans, and these things, even the treated ones, aren't mould proof forever.

As for my floor. I plan on going with your suggestion. If I have extra expanding foam left I will use it for the floor, if not I will go with that Styrofoam stuff.

Funny you mention wiring, water, and gas. I have to figure out how to disconnect all 3 stock dome lights and the aftermarket light switch controlled dome light from the van battery to connect it to my house battery. There is a protective sleeve that runs along the driver side rail of the van I will protect when I insulate, it has space for the wires from my back up camera and anything else I might need to snake through to the front.

All house wiring, plumbing, and gas will be run through the floor. Which is why I like your flooring idea because I can leave space for things. The gas line will run under the van to the propane tanks, but can just as easily run inside the floor to the back. The water lines will be contained to the driver side of the van only running to the sink and back to a gray water jug very close to each other, maybe eventually to an on demand hot water heater on the back door, but again, it can be run through the floor. Electricity is simple, anything that needs 120V will be run off power strips from the plugs on the inverter, no hard wiring, and will be localized to the passenger side wheel well in the back and one plug in the kitchen, the 12V panel will be inside a box over my passenger side wheel well in the back, and pretty much all circuits will be close to it, or can be run through the floor. The only thing coming from the ceiling are the lights, and vent fan power, I can buy some 1/2" conduit and zip tie it in place before I foam and snake those wires through there.
 

MrBeast

Explorer
Airstream experimented with foam, driving down the road turned the spray foam into powder, small breatheable sized pieces.
 

MrBeast

Explorer
and on that note, spray foam is an easier faster way of inslulating, when done in mass production it is close to on the same level cost wise, no one uses it in trailers or motor homes though. You would think there has to be a reason for that.
 

Basement Yeti

Explorer
Damn, just when I thought I had it all figured out.

I could do cotton insulation for the walls and ceilings, and some of the bigger nooks and crannies, and the smaller nooks and gaps with expanding foam. Then go over the areas with cotton with vapor barrier. But what to do about the door cavities?
 

MrBeast

Explorer
Damn, just when I thought I had it all figured out.

I could do cotton insulation for the walls and ceilings, and some of the bigger nooks and crannies, and the smaller nooks and gaps with expanding foam. Then go over the areas with cotton with vapor barrier. But what to do about the door cavities?

Insulate the back and sliding door, dont worry about the front. I would though make a curtian that will go between the front and back, if you get it a few layers thick that will help insulate it.

You are going to find that you are in such a small space it is not hard to keep it warm or cool. Expecially if you get the Fantastic Fan.

Your front doors have door pannels, they are better insulated than you think, they are not perfect, but they give you some insulation, and the heat/cold transfer through them is not enough to warrant tearing them apart.

Id seriously go with the upholstry foam though, it is way less prone to mould, that is why they use it in SEMI's

I have been in Semi's that were 20 years old and the stuff was still in good shape.

Another thing you may consider is glueing vynil to the plywood on the interior, I had not thought about that until now, but you can buy vinyl at walmart fairly cheap, it is easy to clean, and would look good.
 

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