Yeti and the Marshmallow

[MrBeast]

The underside of the van needs to be power washed occasionally. When it's insulated I don't want water getting under there.

:snorkel:

If you are using anything other than styrofoam for your floor insulation you are asking for trouble. Any type of insulation that can soak up water is going to, even if from nothing more than opening the door in the rain.

Check out American Reliance Industries they build custom sleepers for big trucks, you will note in thier construction they use FRP foam core pannels. And they build these things with the intention that you live in it 365 days a year, probably a lot of good info over there for you.

If you are so worried about the floor leaking, take it to some one and have the holes welded shut.

 

[Basement Yeti]

I'm starting to think the cotton insulation I bought will not fly for this application. It's designed not to hold moisture and breathe, but still, it's designed for use in a house.

On the other hand the toxicity of these products is a concern, for me personally. I don't want to be living in such a small space with all this crap that out gasses toxic stuff.

I still can't get a straight answer about radiant barrier, from what I've read you need an air gap for it to work.

 

[MrBeast]

DOW pink styrofoam will get you taken care of, you can eat the stuff, it will come out pink, but you can eat it and it wont kill you. Might not be a pleasant experince so I highly advise not eating it.

Id go for the foam and not worry about it.

 

[Basement Yeti]

DOW pink styrofoam will get you taken care of, you can eat the stuff, it will come out pink, but you can eat it and it wont kill you. Might not be a pleasant experince so I highly advise not eating it.

Id go for the foam and not worry about it.

Perhaps. One thing I hear about the rigid/semi rigid foams in vans is that they squeak mercilessly.

I am looking at the feasibility of expanding foam.

I think both are along the same lines and both are inert unless they catch fire.

 

[Basement Yeti]

I'm going to use the cotton insulation in the door cavities, roof, and walls and install a 6mm vapor barrier with adhesive spray by 3M.

I'm going to mount my wood paneling through the ribs on my van after I pre-fill the ribs with this stuff.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/18826-Daptex-Latex-Foam-Sealant/dp/B000PS9T90/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1300957212&sr=8-10"]Amazon.com: Dap 18826 Daptex Latex Foam Sealant: Home Improvement[/ame]

Or a soy based foam product similar to it. This will prevent the metal screws from transferring moisture inside the walls. I can also use it to seal gaps and stuff.

I'm not going to use cotton insulation on the floor though, like Nick suggested. My floor has higher and lower sections so I am not sure what I can use to match the uneven surface. Will semi rigid/rigid foam compress to mold into the shape of my floor?

 

[MrBeast]

your floor is ribbed, what you want to do is get a thin piece of plywood, cut it to the shape of your floor, then make a second identical piece, screw and glue a wood edge that it the same thickness as your foam where your doors are, then sandwich the foam between the pieces and glue it in place with some good adhesive.

What adheisive you use will depend on what foam you get, if you use the pink foam regular construction adhesive should work just fine, allthough in your application id cut the caulking tube open and use a trowel to spread it out, probably need 2-3 tubes per side, this way it will not squeak mercalesly.

between the wood and the floor id recomend that you paint the floor with bed liner. Or atleast get a rubber mat this will keep everything from squeaking.

done right it will be about 2 3/4" thick. Then you will have a wood floor you can put carpet over.

 

[Basement Yeti]

Even though I am painting the floor you still think I should use a rubber mat or something?

So I am going to need to prime and paint the back of my van where it's all scuffed up. Then I can lay down a rubber mat or equivalent (Maybe I'll go with cork) And create a sandwich of plywood and rigid foam insulation glued with caulking.

What kind of caulking should I go with, standard home caulking?

What size plywood should I go with? For my walls and roof I plan on going with 1/4" so I can shape it to the contours of my van, will that work for the floor too?

Also how should I secure the wood floor stuff to the van, just drill through the lower ribs?

 

[MrBeast]

Even though I am painting the floor you still think I should use a rubber mat or something?

So I am going to need to prime and paint the back of my van where it's all scuffed up. Then I can lay down a rubber mat or equivalent (Maybe I'll go with cork) And create a sandwich of plywood and rigid foam insulation glued with caulking.

What kind of caulking should I go with, standard home caulking?

What size plywood should I go with? For my walls and roof I plan on going with 1/4" so I can shape it to the contours of my van, will that work for the floor too?

Also how should I secure the wood floor stuff to the van, just drill through the lower ribs?

The glue you want to use is called construction adhesive.

You can use 1/4" for the bottom piece of wood on your floor, but I would use 1/2" on the top so as that it has some structure.

1/4" will be fine on the walls.

You can use CA to glue the plywood/foam core sandwich to the floor. it wont move.

I wouldnt bother cleaning it up too much, paint it with a rust inhibiting paint, or as I said bed line it.

 

[Basement Yeti]

The glue you want to use is called construction adhesive.

You can use 1/4" for the bottom piece of wood on your floor, but I would use 1/2" on the top so as that it has some structure.

1/4" will be fine on the walls.

You can use CA to glue the plywood/foam core sandwich to the floor. it wont move.

I wouldnt bother cleaning it up too much, paint it with a rust inhibiting paint, or as I said bed line it.

Ok, well I want to protect the entire back interior. Should I just go with a primer then, and no paint?

I'm going to head out in a little bit and go to Sherwin Williams, and then to Home Depot/Lowes and get this stuff plus some Scotch Bright.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Good?

And this plus some wood and hardware when I am ready to insulate the back.
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-M...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Also what construction adhesive do you recommend for the floor?

And how is this stuff for my vents and crap on the exterior?
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-CARTRIDGE/dp/B0000AY6CA"]Amazon.com: 3M(TM) Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 5200 05220, White, 3 oz [PRICE is per CARTRIDGE]: Industrial & Scientific[/ame]

 

[MrBeast]

3m products are usually awesome.

http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=39&SubcatID=7

is the construction adhesive you should use.

Saying it for the 3rd time, id use bed liner on the floor. Dont paint it, dont prime it, bed line it. I promise you it will be better.

Bed Armor

Actually id sugjest putting that stuff on your floor and walls too, super easy to clean, but need to find out how well it sticks to wood.

 

[Basement Yeti]

3m products are usually awesome.

http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=39&SubcatID=7

is the construction adhesive you should use.

Saying it for the 3rd time, id use bed liner on the floor. Dont paint it, dont prime it, bed line it. I promise you it will be better.

Bed Armor

Actually id sugjest putting that stuff on your floor and walls too, super easy to clean, but need to find out how well it sticks to wood.

While I've taken most of your advice and will use it I am concerned with the toxicity of the products I will be using and that bed liner stuff for sure is toxic.

Plus, I need to paint the walls, bulkhead, and ceiling.

I'll see if I can get that DAP stuff at Home Depot or Lowes, if not I'll get it online.

I got some Scotch Bright pads to clean my van. Tomorrow I'll get my paint/primer or equivalent, some 6mm vapor barrier, and some spray adhesive. Over the weekend I'll clean and paint the back of my van, insulate and vapor barrier the door cavities, and do a few small things like trim that other speaker grill, install my blind spot mirror, trim the headliner, install my camera, etc.

 

[MrBeast]

While I've taken most of your advice and will use it I am concerned with the toxicity of the products I will be using and that bed liner stuff for sure is toxic.

Plus, I need to paint the walls, bulkhead, and ceiling.

Once the bed liner dries it is inert, it is good stuff, and when you find out how easy it is to clean when it gets dirty you will be glad you did.

Also on the walls since you are worried about keeping it very clean, have you considered using opaque plexi glass? It would certanly allow you to wipe down the inside, and you can edge light it which would be a cool effect kind of making the back of your van glow.

 

[Basement Yeti]

I'll look at bed liners and see if I can find something a water based one or something similar. I just don't understand why a bed liner is better than a rust inhibiting primer and/or paint when they won't experience a lot of wear and tear. The point of cleaning it will be moot since the entire interior will be insulated paneled too.

I'm not really worried about keeping it clean, I'm worried about the toxicity of products used.

 

[MrBeast]

I'll look at bed liners and see if I can find something a water based one or something similar. I just don't understand why a bed liner is better than a rust inhibiting primer and/or paint when they won't experience a lot of wear and tear. The point of cleaning it will be moot since the entire interior will be insulated paneled too.

I'm not really worried about keeping it clean, I'm worried about the toxicity of products used.

Kyle, anyone ever tell you that you worry too much?:snorkel:

 

[Basement Yeti]

Kyle, anyone ever tell you that you worry too much?:snorkel:

Haha, it's not worry man. I don't stress about this stuff. It's just when given the option I would rather not use things that can cause ill health effects when a perfectly good alternative is out there.