YETI Interior Build/Overview

[pratty85]

As a matter of fact if anyone has advice on what I should use for my heating/cooling, refrigeration, inverter, solar panels, and batteries speak up!

I have done some research and this is the direction I am heading:

Power: My second alternator with a cutoff switch in the cab will power 2 Diehard Platinum RV Gel Batteries that will be mounted in the UJOR rear skid.
I was thinking of running the Zamp Solar 145w kit with 30A controller. Possibly a 2500w Xantrex inverter.
I was also thinking of using the Zamp solar panel quick connects and a portable panel that can be set out in the sun while I am parked in the shade

What I will be running for accessories: Engel fridge/freezer, Espar heater, AC?, led lights, 12v fan, and laptop. The only continuous items will be the fridge/freezer and the Heating/AC system.

I am not that electrically inclined ....I can do wiring and soldering, but I am intimidated by a setup this big. So any help would be appreciated.

 

[bknudtsen]

PM McZippie. He seems to have an extensive knowledge of this subject.

 

[McZippie]

PM McZippie. He seems to have an extensive knowledge of this subject.

Thanks... but I'm not into solar. IMHO it's to costly and cumbersome for the limited benefit, unless camping in one spot for days in the sunny areas of the world, then it makes sense as supplement source for battery charging.

 

[bknudtsen]

Thanks... but I'm not into solar. IMHO it's to costly and cumbersome for the limited benefit, unless camping in one spot for days in the sunny areas of the world, then it makes sense as supplement source for battery charging.

But you know why you are not into solar, and that is why you are a valuable resource. I have read your recommendations on AGM battery setups and since pratty85 is adding two more batteries, I am sure that you can point him in the right direction. Plus, he has two alternators, which makes things more exciting don't you think? :sombrero:

 

[McZippie]

pratty85 wrote:
As a matter of fact if anyone has advice on what I should use for my heating/cooling, refrigeration, inverter, solar panels, and batteries speak up!

I have done some research and this is the direction I am heading:

Power: My second alternator with a cutoff switch in the cab will power 2 Diehard Platinum RV Gel Batteries that will be mounted in the UJOR rear skid.
Why Gel rather than AGM batteries?

I was thinking of running the Zamp Solar 145w kit with 30A controller. Possibly a 2500w Xantrex inverter.
On the best sunny days the 145w solar will put out about 80amp, realistic number is half 40amps.
How many Amp hours is your planned battery bank?
You haven't listed anywhere near 2500w of power use, a 1000w inverter would work OK for your list, but nothing wrong with having a larger Inverter.

I was also thinking of using the Zamp solar panel quick connects and a portable panel that can be set out in the sun while I am parked in the shade

What I will be running for accessories: Engel fridge/freezer, Espar heater, AC?, led lights, 12v fan, and laptop. The only continuous items will be the fridge/freezer and the Heating/AC system.


Engle 4 amps
Espar 4 amps
Lights 1 amps
Fan 2 amps
Total round to 10 amps hours, using the above items 12 hours of a 24 hour day. (cooler weather don't need the fridge all day, warmer weather don't need Espar all day)
10 amp hours X 12 hours = 120amps for 12hours of a 24 hour day.
Battery bank size, needed to run above list without recharging 240amp hours. (50% reserve capacity rule)
Charging with 145 watt solar at 40 amps per day, comes up short 80 amps hours. (120 amp hours daily use + 40 amps solar charging = 80 amp hours short)
Still need to come up with an additional 80 amp hours of charging from some other source, or reduce usage and/or have full days of sun for solar charging.

A/C? at 180 amps, you can't carry enough batteries or have enough solar panels or a large enough inverter to run one. (smiley winky face crap)


I am not that electrically inclined ....I can do wiring and soldering, but I am intimidated by a setup this big. So any help would be appreciated.

 

[McZippie]

But you know why you are not into solar, and that is why you are a valuable resource. I have read your recommendations on AGM battery setups and since pratty85 is adding two more batteries, I am sure that you can point him in the right direction. Plus, he has two alternators, which makes things more exciting don't you think? :sombrero:

Yep our 6.0L Diesel E350 also has two alternators....

Exciting is; getting up in the morning and seeing on the voltage gauge that battery bank has run down to 11.90 volts and then start-up the monster 6.0L Diesel powered V/8 generator and watch on the amp gauge as 200+amps are being pumped into the low internal resistance AGM battery bank!

15 to 20 minutes later, the engine's automatic low voltage fast idle controller, returns the idle to normal, signaling that the batteries are recharged for another day of use and the 6.0L generator is switched off.

As a side note, I designed the above system with an automatic low voltage battery disconnect switch, so the house and starting battery could be combined into one large battery bank and there would also be enough reserve battery power to start the engine. Had problems with the low voltage disconnect solenoid sticking closed, so have a generator as back-up if needed to recharge the combined house and battery bank to start engine.

I'm not anti-solar, it has it's place, works OK in sunny climates, if have room to mount enough panels to recharge the battery bank for estimated daily use.
Small rigs of today with power hungry demands, usually don't mount/carry enough solar panels to do that.
So IMHO why bother with the hassles and expense of solar on Plug and Play Vans, when they are still going to need an alternative source to meet the energy demands.

....lets talk wind power (smiley face rolling eyes crap)

 

[pratty85]

This is why I ask....:ylsmoke:

Sorry I got my batteries mixed up....I want to use 2 of these: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02850131000P

I do want at minimum a 2000w inverter.

Skip the AC(not really needed), and my biggest users of juice would be the Engel and Espar.

So how do I bring it all together?

I can always add solar later if I decide.

 

[McZippie]

This is why I ask....:ylsmoke:

Sorry I got my batteries mixed up....I want to use 2 of these: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02850131000P

I do want at minimum a 2000w inverter.

Skip the AC(not really needed), and my biggest users of juice would be the Engel and Espar.

So how do I bring it all together?

I can always add solar later if I decide.

That Sears AGM Battery is a great choice. Rated at 100 amp hours.
Battery bank with two of them, would be 200 amp hours, divide by 2 for 100 amps available (50% DOC), whack off another 10 to 20 amp hours because of problems with trying to pack in a full charge. So you'll have a battery bank with of about 80 to 90 amp hours of useful capacity until recharging is required.

Our Rig has a slightly larger AGM Battery Bank and run both an Espar and Engle and with other small items (fan, computer, lights, etc.) we must recharge daily, when the Engle is run during the day and the Espar at night.

I'll post up some suggestions for your Rig later tonight.

 

[notmiller]

I'll post up some suggestions for your Rig later tonight.

This is why I love this forum! All this valuable input he's already imparted towards the subject, and he's doesn't even consider it a recommendation yet! Keep it coming!

 

[McZippie]

OK here's some battery basics and suggestions for your consideration.
I like KISS and use 'only' high quality marine wire and components rather than lesser quality from RV, Auto or Hardware/Home sources.

Battery Basics:
1. All batteries in a bank should be of the same type, size and age.
2. Ideally battery cables should all be of the same length, guage and wired to a central location.
3. Wire with flexible marine or welding cables with high wire count.
4. Use heat activated sealing wire connectors.
5. AGM batteries are the best choice for both house and starting applications.
6. Battery life is greatly extended by not discharging below 50% State of Charge, measure voltage while batteries are at rest, approximately 12.00 volts.
7. To extend Battery life and pack in the most charge the 'right' charger is required.
Engine alternators and most 120volt chargers do this with varying degrees of success.
8. Use only 120 volt chargers that have an AGM setting.

Assume you want two house batteries inside and already have two outside for starting:

Consdier a change from the two Sears AGMs 100 amp hourse house batteries you linked, to four Sears AGMs 75 amp hour batteries that are all the same size as the starting batteries that are mounted on the frame rail. (1. and 5. above)

Wire all four batteries together to a central location using a marine manual operated battery bank selector switch. (2. above)

Monitor both voltage and amps in and out with easily viewable gauges. (6. and 7. above)

So here's how a 4 battery set-up would work.
From the selector switch, you can choose to run the house or start the engine with either of a 2 batttery bank or combine all batteries together into one large bank with 4 batteries.

While camping and in the Van, to get a lot more hours of benefit from a 4 battery
300 amp hour battery bank, select the switch to combine all 4 batteries together.
Monitor voltage gauge and when voltage lowers to about 11.90 volts, with a 10 amp or less draw (Peukert Effect), use the selector switch to separate the batteries into two different battery banks. One 2 battery bank would have enough reserve for engine starting.
The other 2 battery bank is for continued house use.
Lower house current draw to less than 5 amps, watch voltage gauge (Peukert Effect) the voltage will start to raise.
When voltage lowers to 11.90 volts again, turn off all house current until batteries are recharged.

While engine alternator or 120 volt charging, select switch to combine all 4 battery together.

While camping and sleeping or away from the van, select switch to separate house and starting batteries.

If above is something along the lines you would like to pursue, I can link parts that I would recommend.

 

[pratty85]

OK here's some battery basics and suggestions for your consideration.
I like KISS and use 'only' high quality marine wire and components rather than lesser quality from RV, Auto or Hardware/Home sources.

Battery Basics:
1. All batteries in a bank should be of the same type, size and age.
2. Ideally battery cables should all be of the same length, guage and wired to a central location.
3. Wire with flexible marine or welding cables with high wire count.
4. Use heat activated sealing wire connectors.
5. AGM batteries are the best choice for both house and starting applications.
6. Battery life is greatly extended by not discharging below 50% State of Charge, measure voltage while batteries are at rest, approximately 12.00 volts.
7. To extend Battery life and pack in the most charge the 'right' charger is required.
Engine alternators and most 120volt chargers do this with varying degrees of success.
8. Use only 120 volt chargers that have an AGM setting.

Assume you want two house batteries inside and already have two outside for starting:

Consdier a change from the two Sears AGMs 100 amp hourse house batteries you linked, to four Sears AGMs 75 amp hour batteries that are all the same size as the starting batteries that are mounted on the frame rail. (1. and 5. above)

Wire all four batteries together to a central location using a marine manual operated battery bank selector switch. (2. above)

Monitor both voltage and amps in and out with easily viewable gauges. (6. and 7. above)

So here's how a 4 battery set-up would work.
From the selector switch, you can choose to run the house or start the engine with either of a 2 batttery bank or combine all batteries together into one large bank with 4 batteries.

While camping and in the Van, to get a lot more hours of benefit from a 4 battery
300 amp hour battery bank, select the switch to combine all 4 batteries together.
Monitor voltage gauge and when voltage lowers to about 11.90 volts, with a 10 amp or less draw (Peukert Effect), use the selector switch to separate the batteries into two different battery banks. One 2 battery bank would have enough reserve for engine starting.
The other 2 battery bank is for continued house use.
Lower house current draw to less than 5 amps, watch voltage gauge (Peukert Effect) the voltage will start to raise.
When voltage lowers to 11.90 volts again, turn off all house current until batteries are recharged.

While engine alternator or 120 volt charging, select switch to combine all 4 battery together.

While camping and sleeping or away from the van, select switch to separate house and starting batteries.

If above is something along the lines you would like to pursue, I can link parts that I would recommend.

I would like to do the 4 battery setup, but I am currently been using 2 Diehard Platinum AGM Group 65's that are a still under a year old, and have just over 3 years left on warranty. So I would definitely want to get my use out of them.

So if your willing to help me with a rear mounted 2 battery setup that would be great! Maybe I should run 3?

I would definitely appreciate the parts links!

I will take some pictures of the wires that have already been run from the alternator later this afternoon so u can help me identify what goes where.

Thanks!

 

[McZippie]

I would like to do the 4 battery setup, but I am currently been using 2 Diehard Platinum AGM Group 65's that are a still under a year old, and have just over 3 years left on warranty. So I would definitely want to get my use out of them.

So if your willing to help me with a rear mounted 2 battery setup that would be great! Maybe I should run 3?

I would definitely appreciate the parts links!

I will take some pictures of the wires that have already been run from the alternator later this afternoon so u can help me identify what goes where.

Thanks!

Post pictures of everything inside and outside of the Van that is 120 volt and battery related.
Pictures of starting batteries and house batteries locations etc.
No worries, with the batteries you currently have, they will work just fine.

Start thinking about what components you want to mount inside the Van and where they'd would go;
inverter, on board charger/UPS, 120 and 12 volt outlets, 120 volt transfer switch, 120 volt shore power, 12 volt and 120 volt fusing blocks.

Seriously give some thought to a small generator, maybe room in one those bumper swing-out box boxes???

Go to Blue Sea Marine, Samlex and others listed below, start reading up their components and how they all work together.
http://bluesea.com/
http://www.samlexamerica.com/
http://www.donrowe.com/

Here's a nice plug and play transfer switch
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/solar-power/transfer-switch.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=partsshopping&utm_campaign=partsfeed&gclid=CLjCveCajbICFYVrKgodTnsABw

 

[pratty85]

Here are my batteries:

Where I want to put my new batteries:

Alternator and wires:

Wires that will go to switch?

Wire to battery:

Where I want to have inverter, on board charger/UPS, 120 and 12 volt outlets, 120 volt transfer switch, 120 volt shore power, 12 volt and 120 volt fusing blocks:

This is where I want to mount the fridge, with just enough room for the seat to recline; its the only thing that is toward the front, everything else will be towards the back of the van:

And I seriously have enough room in my rear skid-plate to have 6 more batteries....

 

[pratty85]

On another note! I received my sofa bed from Discount van. It was sup-post to be 68"X48" but they got the measurement on the back wrong so it is only 41"s wide when it lays down. I called them up and they have a new back on the way! And the best part is they told me to keep the shorter back so I don't have to ship it and I have an extra cushion!

And this is roughly where it will be mounted in the van:

 

[McZippie]

One starting battery is under the hood and another starting battery is on the frame rail, right???

If above is correct, look at the frame rail next to battery box and see if the frame rail is pre-drilled for another frame rail mounted battery box.

I'll start sourcing parts with pictures and links, so you can ask questions and decide if you want to use them.