Yetti's 2007 Outfitter Apex project.

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

I got this installed today, and also added two buss bars. Probably should of done that a long time ago. Mfgr's should do that stock...

The new wall paper Its not holding up well, im not sure I may have to pull it all down and do something else, with the hot/cold tem changes its peeling and bubbling in a lot of spots. It had adhesive on the back, but maybe I should of used a secondary spray one.



The battery I dont think I posted it before, its shiny, pretty and just works..




The goal was to install them on the rear wall like this, unfortunately none of the OE fittings would of worked and everything would of needed extended about 6 inches... Unless I was going to run all new wire that seemed like a lot of extra work, and adding a short splice is just something else to go wrong.


So this is the way it ended up. I am not super excited about it being so close to the water pump, all wires have guards though. But ill possibly try to get or source a Plexiglas shield of some sort for the pump.

It reports it all to my phone via a Bluetooth shunt and app. The little display I will eventually install above the fridge with the rest, but thats a pain. And will just wait until I replace the fridge.

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

Screen shots of the settings, from the phone app.

Sent from my magical BlackBerry pocket tool, somewhere remote. Happy Tails & Safe Travels

 

[locrwln]

Looking good, shouldn’t have any problems tracking your battery usage.

Jack

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

Jack,

Thanks! Yeah, I look forward to seeing the system during heavy usage, normally this is the week im at a freezing dog sled event every year. Unfortunately it has been canceled do to C19.

Hope you are still on the road, and enjoying life and remote areas!

Happy tails and Safe travels
Hopefully sent from somewhere pretty and remote.
With my entertainment and navigation multitool.

Contract AEMT, Firefighter, MCPIC,Remote Medic, Safety Manager.

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

I saw this on an TCM article, and decided It seemed like a great idea over the old petcocks. It folds up and fits in there well.

* Hot Water Heater Drain. the spigot i placed on the end would fit a standard garden hose, because I like having options haha

Sent from my magical BlackBerry pocket tool, somewhere remote. Happy Tails & Safe Travels

 

[locrwln]

I saw this on an TCM article, and decided It seemed like a great idea over the old petcocks. It folds up and fits in there well.

Sent from my magical BlackBerry pocket tool, somewhere remote. Happy Tails & Safe Travels

Is that to drain your hot water heater?

Jack

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

Is that to drain your hot water heater?

Jack

It is yes!! I'll try it on my 5iver in a few weeks as well I think.

Sent from my magical BlackBerry pocket tool, somewhere remote. Happy Tails & Safe Travels

 

[locrwln]

It is yes!! I'll try it on my 5iver in a few weeks as well I think.

Sent from my magical BlackBerry pocket tool, somewhere remote. Happy Tails & Safe Travels

Nice, always hated pulling the anode rod to drain the HW heater in my previous campers. is that from the pressure valve? I’m assuming you still have the anode rod.

Jack

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

Nice, always hated pulling the anode rod to drain the HW heater in my previous campers. is that from the pressure valve? I’m assuming you still have the anode rod.

Jack

There are two mfgrs of RV water heaters,

Suburban- who use porcelain lined steel tanks. They require an anode rod.

Atwood, uses aluminum tanks. So they don't require one. Or so I have been told, ( https://www.truckcampermagazine.com...ou-need-an-anode-rod-in-your-rv-water-heater/ " The Atwood manual says not to use one, so far I have not had any trouble, but have only had my new 5er a few years.

so that's how I have been operating haha. My first 5er had the Suburban, and i would go through one a year fulltiming.

 

[locrwln]

There are two mfgrs of RV water heaters,

Suburban- who use porcelain lined steel tanks. They require an anode rod.

Atwood, uses aluminum tanks. So they don't require one. Or so I have been told, ( https://www.truckcampermagazine.com...ou-need-an-anode-rod-in-your-rv-water-heater/ " The Atwood manual says not to use one, so far I have not had any trouble, but have only had my new 5er a few years.

so that's how I have been operating haha. My first 5er had the Suburban, and i would go through one a year fulltiming.

That makes sense. I guess mine were all Suburban based as they had anode rods.

I would have been happy to not have to deal with them.
Jack

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

Whats the bundutec have?

Happy tails and Safe travels
Hopefully sent from somewhere pretty and remote.
With my entertainment and navigation multitool.

Contract AEMT, Firefighter, MCPIC,Remote Medic, Safety Manager.

 

[locrwln]

Whats the bundutec have?

Happy tails and Safe travels
Hopefully sent from somewhere pretty and remote.
With my entertainment and navigation multitool.

Contract AEMT, Firefighter, MCPIC,Remote Medic, Safety Manager.

Truma Combi. No anode rod, just a small internal tank with a easy drain valve.

Jack

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

Awesome, I have thought about what I will do when the furnace, or water heater on this one go out.
That seems like a good option
or a gasoline fired one,

 

[GarrettR]

Not much working room.

Sent from my magical BlackBerry pocket tool, somewhere remote. Happy Tails & Safe Travels

Hey! This thread has been GREAT to read. Great job!

Fellow Outfitter 9.5 owner here, and I am going through this same problem on my rig.

Both valves are stuck and I have to use an Allen key to open them. The black is not too difficult to do but the gray almost break my arm getting to. I am going to have to change the electric valves and switch to a mechanical one.

It looks like the easy fix is to put a slide on the black and use the "main" valve to lock off the gray. but this is not quite ideal either. I like to "rinse" the black out with my soapy gray!

How did you install the gate for your gray and where does it come out at? Any tips for getting in there? I see you made an access panel. That might be a necessity!


Great read, Thanks for posting!

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

GarrettR


Thanks, its been a project but i have been happy with the purchase.

I am glad to hear that its been able to help others out.

Have you removed the inner step? That's where you'll have the best access to the basement.

The grey is the only one that I have replaced. The access hole was already there. Also, just cut the pipe and get the flex rubber boot. It will make it easier for you and save some time. However the gate is in the same place as the original one.

I used a different brand, for the electrics which are rebuildable, but made it a lot harder as they are physically larger than the ones that were originally installed.