rbraddock
Observer
The 21,600 kg is correct. However, that's about 47,500 lbs. Plenty of capacity, even if your truck is armor-plated.
Yep did the conversion the wrong way!
The 21,600 kg is correct. However, that's about 47,500 lbs. Plenty of capacity, even if your truck is armor-plated.
Would be really cool. If I was building a vehicle like this I would still probably buy a deuce and a half (less than $1000), just so I could use the frame, transfer-case, and at least two of the three 2.5-ton rockwell axles. The frames are something like 3x6" straight C-channel and they're over 24ft long - but they're not heat-treated, so you can weld on them (I would make the framework for the 'body' like a racecar rollcage). The transfer-case is divorced, so it would be easy to adapt to any 2WD engine/tranny combo. And the axles are... burly. This setup would not lend itself to being loaded into a shipping container (too tall), but that's what I would do. Actually I probably would have used 900-series 5-ton axles in order to get full air-brakes and a more common 10-lug wheel pattern, but I didn't want to take the time to build a vehicle from scratch, so I just built a deuce and a half.A cabover design or cab forward with rear engine...
Kevin, since you already finished the "America's" drive would you please consider commenting on which items you think "must" be included in your gear and the vehicle's gear or perhaps things you wished you had taken/left behind with you on your adventure? I know this will be very specific to your needs, but it would be very interesting.A cabover design or cab forward with rear engine seems to maximize interior space vs. OAL.
Think of blending a Pinzgauer, a Sportsmobile, and a Westfalia! If the weight was kept down, the engine/drivetrain from a Mitsubishi Fuso would be worth considering.
www.mungoeatsla.ca
Some of my concerns with this design are:
-the rear overhang
-size of motor: without a sourced US EPA diesel engine at this point, the size of the engine compartment is unknown.
-interior layout to fit two comfortably long term (but four if required,) kitchen area, dining, and bathroom facilities plus storage.
-working a pass though into the design of the rear box, while allowing it to have a hard-side, insulated raising roof section.
Kevin, since you already finished the "America's" drive would you please consider commenting on which items you think "must" be included in your gear and the vehicle's gear or perhaps things you wished you had taken/left behind with you on your adventure? I know this will be very specific to your needs, but it would be very interesting.
BTW it is nice to see your blog continues on...
Would be really cool. If I was building a vehicle like this I would still probably buy a deuce and a half (less than $1000), just so I could use the frame, transfer-case, and at least two of the three 2.5-ton rockwell axles. The frames are something like 3x6" straight C-channel and they're over 24ft long - but they're not heat-treated, so you can weld on them (I would make the framework for the 'body' like a racecar rollcage). The transfer-case is divorced, so it would be easy to adapt to any 2WD engine/tranny combo. And the axles are... burly. This setup would not lend itself to being loaded into a shipping container (too tall), but that's what I would do. Actually I probably would have used 900-series 5-ton axles in order to get full air-brakes and a more common 10-lug wheel pattern, but I didn't want to take the time to build a vehicle from scratch, so I just built a deuce and a half.
If you are registering a "kit car" does the engine need to meet EPA requirements?
What about an older diesel out of a 80's Mercedes, but mating a transfer case would be rather difficult. I also know Mercedes make a few diesels in their current line up and would be a good choice for parts sourcing from the globe.
Another diesel source would be a TDI from volkswagen/Audi with an AWD transfer case and an auto or manual transmission. These engines are small and compact and fit in a Jetta or A3. The down side of a modern diesel would be the complexity of electronics.
This is why you should start with something already made ad then all of this can be adjusted. Start with something like a Unimog, Land Rover Forward Control or Pinzgauer and then all you have to do is set it up the way you want to. The EPA will only care about the date of manufacture and since these are one ton trucks, upgrading to a newer diesel like the Cummins or Isuzu motors, is legal. The registration will indicate the year of manufacture and youre fine.
I dont like the cab forward/ rear engine idea. Why would you put the motor underneath the living space? Imagine having an issue and then having to get to the motor. Plus, this creates issues with transmissions and transfer cases. Most cab forwards make the motor and trans accessible through the cab which is much easier.
My problem is with what is available out there! In order to get a good vehicle you have the following options:
1. Buy a huge American truck in order to get a diesel, and suffer in fuel economy.
2. Import a vehicle from abroad (HILUX, D110, etc.) and hope the EPA, DOT, and the rest of Uncle Sam's employees don't stop you half way through the process.
3. Pray the Oil Companies' and Big Three's lobbyist are sick and the US is actually able to get a decent off-road diesel (see #2) to the market.
4. Buy a PINZ, Kaiser, or some other ex-military vehicle that was abused by the military initially and sink tons of cash into it, upgrading and fixing problems.
As someone who would love a diesel, I agree with the above BUT, have you thought about starting with an existing frame and building up from there? It would make registration much easier and whatever you do, will be judged off of that. So, start with an older vehicles one ton frame from a vehicle that was registered (like a rusted out ________) and then all EPA and State standards will be based off of that existing registration. Replacement for insurance reasons might be a little bit difficult but nothing stated value couldnt take care of.
I guess you could register the vehicle as a kit car but I dont know what that does to your safety and emissions standards/ requirements. A lot of people use existing frames and upgrade everything else around it. Look at a lot of the Defenders in the US. Many of them are basically 2005 or later models built on the frame of a 1984/ 1985. When theyre titled, they are titled on the year of the frame.
if you MUST have a vehicle that has a pass-through from truck cab to camper;
and you MUST have a vehicle with 36 inch tall tires;
and you MUST have a vehicle that fits inside a 20 foot shipping container;
then look no farther than the EarthCruiser. It's built on a short wheelbase Fuso FG chassis in Brisbane, Queensland. http://www.earthcruiser.com.au