Yes, extending the overall length of trailer. Not fully settled on how much of an extension but will probably be in the 2-3 feet range to start. Much easier to shorten than lengthen if I change my mind later.
The chassis is rated at 1 ton but with the ~500 lb bed, the capacity is only 1500 lbs. Tack on a spare, tool boxes, fuel, water, ice chest etc, the weight starts to add up. You will be happy with it behind your 2500. The width is just wide enough to see in the mirrors when backing up.
The...
IMO, the springs are fine and are not as heavy duty as the rest of the trailer. Before pulling leafs I would get your tongue done, play with tire pressure, and load distribution. Mine pulled a lot better without the 37s and surge brake (stuck with pintle). Weight in the front of the trailer...
Nice build. These trailers are sensitive to tongue weight and being level. When I want to work on the underside, I just throw the spare tire near the tailgate, lock the brakes, then stand it up. Unfortunately they dont have a lot of tongue space to put stuff to help balance the load. I would...
Pintle set ups are not bad on the highway. Its all I use. I get more clank when empty but with a load I don't even notice it. Never understood then need for a ball mount coupler, sort of like a phillips head screw.
Saw a hood mounted jack the other day and it got me wondering what would happen to the jack in an accident. Seems like a horizontal or vertical bumper mount is the safest.
I have a sloppy fitting pintle and have just gotten used to the noise to the point I don't even notice it.
Duct tape will not work.
Are you trying to sneek up on something?
Looks good. I have a similar wash tub fire pit. It was a PITA to extract the tub from the washer.
I like the griddle on top, I might have to throw a plow disk on top of mine next time I have it fired up.
Other than wheels and tires, this is the most elegant method I have seen for lowering.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134805-Another-way-to-lower-an-M1101-M1102
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