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May want to check the vacuum lines for leaks. Also most Mitsubishi engines tend to be louder with ticking noises.

This is a known possible issue. You can search on google and find a replacement circlip kit. I never experienced it on my 2001 with 170k miles, but a lifted vehicle may provoke the failure of the circlip. Just keep an eye on it or replace it with the kit if you feel nervous.

I used the same ones from my 2009 Lancer Ralliart on my 2001 and 2005 Monteros. The threads are the same and it was a little larger than the original filter (unknown brand). I usually order this set of 6 Mitsubishi filters w/crush washers from Fred Beans...

They are few and far between in the wrecking yards. Try checking eBay. I've found several wrecked Gen 3's for parts there. I ordered a differential for mine from there.

That is the trick. It was the same way for both Monteros I've owned. Also make it one fluid motion from collapse to flip forward otherwise the lower lock mechanism stays engaged and it only folds over. If it doesn't pull up easily just hold the lever, unfold and refold/lift up at the same time...

I put oil in when it was installed and I will check the level again. There was no noise after install but now with about 800 miles I think I am starting to hear it again around 55mph. I am really hoping it is just something else causing the noise or my own imagination.

After a long couple of drives with the Montero and new differential, I am starting to hear the same noise again. I really hope it is not about to break another differential, but I cannot find what might be causing the issue. Both rear wheels and their axles turned smoothly when I did the swap...

I would also double check all wiring for a bad ground/connection if it is not the bolt/balancer.

I used Green Grease as recommended by Monstero. It can be found in most Auto Parts stores, and I used it on the front shaft u-joint. A little grease can go a long way.

Just got back from shop after timing/water pump service. Had new drive belt installed since it was coming off anyway. $180 for parts from RockAuto. $460 labor/coolant at shop. They replaced all seals and water pump gaskets as well. Next will be trans fluid change and OEM brake pads. Afterwards I...

Check for your FSM in the mitsubishilinks below. It should have the rear door removal procedure. I would think you could open the door and replace 1 hinge at a time without removing the entire door.

Thanks. I really like this vehicle, I just needed to fix the obvious issues. I would maybe like the ARB front/rear air lockers, but I do not drive many places that would need it. The LSD should suffice. I now need to do transmission fluid change, oil change, and get the timing belt/water...

. I ordered this replacement from eBay for $300. 2001 diff with 101k (mine has 105k). Installed it yesterday and filled with fluid today. Also changed transfer case fluid. The rear end noise is now gone. The old diff sounds terrible when turned by hand. New one also has an added bonus of being...

I thought the gear ratios were based on the trim/transmissions? 4.9 for the XLS w/4-speed and 4.3 for the LTD w/5-speed. I had heard of swaps between these, but was not sure if there was any other major differences that would prevent the complete swap of an older differential without having to...

Transmission shop said it is the ring and pinion gears. They are probably shot and I need new ones. I have found used differentials on Ebay, but there is a huge price difference between the 2001-02 limited ones and the 2003-06 ones. One seller has some with free shipping and 6 month warranty...

Seems to be the pinion bearing. Noise changes with throttle, but not with turning. I would think carrier bearings would change sound with side load changes. Hopefully a shop can look at it tonight.

Where did you find that rear bumper guard, or did you make it?

I will look into that. Passengers and myself distinctly hear the sound from the rear end. Hopefully it is an (relatively) easy fix.

Replaced the free-wheel clutch vacuum actuator. Rod now moves further when vacuum is applied. Still have the same noise though. Sounds like bearing, but is silent in 2H unless under throttle. Constant sound in 4H, and accel or decel makes no noticeable change. Possibly wheel bearing or carrier...

Hey, check this website and follow the diagnosis procedures. 4wd.blogeasy.com Also get the FSM for yours using the link in my signature. I am working on a similar issue with mine.