Search results

I've run E load Blizzaks on my 2500hd gasser for two winters now. They're great and they still look new. They look unused compared to the goodyear summer setup that came on the truck. I'm careful not to drive on the Blizzaks if it's over 45F.

From my research the extra tank is something like 7 gallons. Info for it is scarce. It’s not clear if it is gravity fed or if there’s an extra fuel pump. Seems like much ado about nothing. My stock 2500hd is 36 gallons and I’d love more fuel.

Might be worth it to grease up where those brake pads make contact with the clips, and under the clips. Half the brake jobs I do around here are done prematurely, not because the pads are wore down but because of rust. The caliper mount rusts under the clips and the brake pads over the clips...

I’ve had several S10 trucks. First things that come to mind are steering components that wear out often, leaking oil cooler lines, in radiator trans cooler which has become ineffective over the years. Hot transmission fluid is bad. Why was the head gasket bad? I’ve never had a head gasket go...

Just ziptie your PVC device to the outside of the wheel, lol.

Ok, so what's the fix?

As far as electrical system goes I'd probably do solar and buy a kit, 100-200 watts. If you store this trailer outside and uncovered it would be nice to know the batteries are being looked after by the solar while you're out of town. I'd switch any internal/external camp lights to LED(warm light...

You can get better brake pads for the regular old style brakes. I’m a heavyish guy and found the cheap pads on my old bike were crap when they were wet so I upgraded.

Our GM trucks put out that much voltage but those Japanese cars don’t. I think 13.8 is the norm, and then there’s voltage drop and losses at the connectors. The point about the DC to DC charger reducing the output from 100amps to the 20/40 the charger puts out is kinda moot. The battery isn’t...

I'm getting flashbacks. A friend of mine had a '85 blazer with that rear mounted gas tank. There had been a custom made skid plate for it that got packed full of mud and rotted out the tank. That was the biggest pita to change. Had to drop the skid plate, the receiver hitch, and then finally the...

You could even have an onboard gas tank like the toy hauler trailers.

The cheapest way would probably mirror what the truck guys do to add a second battery under the hood, except your second battery would be 2-3 times the distance from the main battery. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/how-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50.77503/ In...

I’ve used comealongs to move ~3,000lb cars around the yard and on/off trailers etc. It was a pita, almost couldn’t do it, and they weren’t stuck in the ground/ buried up to their frame. I’m not a small guy. I wouldn’t want to unstick anything bigger than a side by side with a comealong.

The little covers on the back of the panels has two diodes under them. Is that what you’re talking about? Is there something I could/should add to separate each of the pair of panels where they join and go join to the charge controller?

Thanks, I knew there was probably a simple explanation.

I think I'll flip the trailer around so the panels have more direct light and see what happens.

Mostly to get less losses with the standard 10 gauge solar power wiring. Also it's probably less total wires I have to run. I was hoping to minimize shading on the panels. I mounted them in such a way that they wouldn't get any shading from the trailer itself, TV antenna, roof vents, AC unit.

That’s half of the solar panels’ rated output and according to my battery monitor it wasn’t quite keeping up with the load. It’s a bright sunny morning and three of the four panels are on the north side of the trailer, so they’re slightly angled north due to the roof's slight crown.

Alright, still figuring out what I don’t know I don’t know. When the solar would only make 120w it was because the batteries were already full(and equalizing). When I turn everything on I can to draw down the batteries the solar output goes up, because of course it does. This is with every 12v...

I finally got the solar panels and their associated wiring installed on Sunday. 4 100w Renogy panels series/ parallel. I’m surprised to see the twelve volt panels in series putting out 37 volts, I thought it’d be closer to 28-29ish. I’m a little underwhelmed by the wattage being produced but...