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I'm pretty sure that if the lid is open very far when driving it will create a low pressure area right behind it (flow will separate), which will tend to create a low pressure area inside the camper, that the fan will need to counteract... if pressurizing the camper is your goal. I may do an...

I think where you have it perfect, since it is a high pressure area when driving. The roof and sides generally are not, with the back usually the lowest pressure.

I'll be danged... didn't know that: https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/news/four-wheel-campers-new-ownership-announcement/ The buyer had to know that the bust was imminent. I'd value it at the 2019 level, not 2022!

I could be wrong, but if the box is sealed and you close it when it's warm... and then the temperature drops below the dew point in the box... maybe. If that is the case I don't think much ventilation would be needed.

Drill a hole and put something like this over it? Marine vent cover.

Can you say anything about how the water sealing works? Also, is the dacron mostly for keeping bugs out when it's open? Been wondering just how simply this can be done. Any vent that is in a high pressure area and can keep out water and bugs, and be closable when stopped, should work fine.

Exactly. The presence of that forward facing vent isn't really creating airflow in the camper, unless your sealing job is quite poor. If you are perfectly sealed and go into a dust cloud that hits the vent it doesn't suck air (or dust) in at all; it just pressurizes the cabin. The amount that...

(y) Yep, the negative pressure inside the camper that draws in air and dust is caused by motion as well. I don't imagine this works very well if you are following someone or cross paths on a dusty road... ?

Utilitarian?... phew... It's a rolling work of art... (y) 😍

Scupper vents are common in Oz where they use ram air typically to pressurize the interior of a cabin. A vent like the one below that costs $45 (etrailer), may be a viable alternative for those who like it simple and cheap. Best to locate it where you can open and close it easily. I was thinking...

From the website:"Complete builds: $100,000 – $135,000 and up (plus vehicle cost)".

Curious about that second part. Carbon isn't really compatible with fiberglass as a "reinforcement", since it's ~3x the stiffness. The carbon needs to be strong enough to take the total load, else it will crack. In other words making a fiberglass structure and "reinforcing" it with carbon is a...

Try sanding fiberglass on a regular basis... covered in epoxy/FG dust... :poop::eek::devilish:

So 1 inch is enough... seems about right. I think many have been fine with less.

If you use a 1/2 ton or less to haul stuff, then you deal with being over GVWR. That's just how things are done in the US. It's not illegal.

I kinda wish I'd bought that to build my underbed storage boxes... instead of expanded PVC with wet layup of fiberglass. Somehow I never learn to make my tasks easier. Coosa is expensive, especially if you need to have it shipped. I'd just use plywood for interiors, but that's me... I don't...

^^^ Price is the same as 4WC, so...

Thought this might explain a little better. It's simple... just need to drill holes and insert bolts. The weight is distributed on each of the 8 bed mount locations. The beams are 6061 Al. All of it weighs ~100 lbs. I made the floor/base strong and stiff so didn't need a regular subframe. You...

A couple issues with subframes that use fixed pivot points are a) they don't match the natural twist of the chassis perfectly, introducing stresses, and b) these stresses in addition to the ones you get from just carrying the load, are concentrated on a small portion of the chassis. The spring...

I think "branch deflection" is a good feature! You are probably correct, I just wondered if something happened to make you think that. I guess the Kodiak is made like the Bigfoot and Northern Lite, with a self-supporting fiberglass shell made in a mold... then some foam and interior wall...