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Then check for sticky valves and transmission shifting and the other internal issues from sitting too long. Also check the rear-end ratio for highway-ability. Biggest issue I have found on them is poor seals around the bus door causing a lot of road/wind noise and water infiltration issues...

They range all over the map for build quality and condition. That low of miles sounds like it was an old church bus. You need to watch for issues from sitting too much--dryrotted hoses, rodent damage, water damage, etc.

You will want to plenum the intake or exhaust from up high, or add a fan to keep the air stirred up, but down low is common on ultralite rigs--popups, teardrops, etc. I think it is a fair trade for the lower COG and roof height. No way would I put a roof air on a 4wd, just asking for trouble...

There is always the small window unit in the back door/window.

It looks pretty good color-matched. The louvers make nice racing stripes. I think that should pull in pretty clean air, sucking dust on dirt roads is a problem and that is a lot cheaper than a snorkel if it works. Make sure you have a drain hole or two in the box. And maybe a baffle over...

I can't wait to see what the real world MPG will be. I should be able to afford one about the time all the kids are grown and I don't need it anymore....

Did you change the rubber lines? Change them to braided if you haven't. Did they pull the calipers again? Are they hanging up and dragging just one side? Not uncommon for a new caliper to bind up on an old mount.

Wide range of quality in those valves, but the upper end are the same as Grainger. Grainger markups are insane--you pay dearly for their service. It can be worth it for a business, but hard to justify for an individual. Amazon Prime has made things much simpler for my small business--I buy...

Valves: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=12v%20water%20valve&sprefix=12v+water+va%2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3A12v%20water%20valve

Love that raised roof. Angular just looks right. Are you welding in a roof rack while you are at is?

If I had the money.... I want a 6bt in my van SO BAD. but it would also need a tranny that wouldn't grenade behind it. Is that the right manifold for the van? (was it an F-series manifold)?

If I had ANY way to swing that kind of cash...

Single best thing I did to change handling, completely different vehicle on-road. I bought the STEEL adapters from Fred. http://www.wheeladapter.com/ I haven't pushed them hard, but they are NOT the weak link in the rear end.

NICE. I can see that being useful lots of places in a van.

Yes, but it would be really easy for someone to lock them (with their own lock or carabiner) while you are inside. Maybe just some friends to screw with you during that 3 am pee break, maybe not...

The whole plate/handle panel is just plastic, it isn't hard to rip it out to get to the latch linkage (and cheaper than replacing a window if you have to break into your own van). As to the slicklocks, I have never been a fan of a lock that can only be used from the outside on a passenger...

Chains on a 2wd will get you to the point a 4wd can't pull you out unless it has chains, too. So are there other options on the Dana full float?

C. Crazy awesome!

We always had the same problem in the old John Deere tractors. They CONDENSE water inside any night there is dew or frost, but never get hot enough to cook it back out. Yes, eventually enough to push the oil out the top.

Both old vans will be able to get 95%+ of your normal repair parts from NAPA. Big unknown is the front axle and suspension on both--you need to figure out what the donor axle was to get parts and if any parts were custom. Some of the old conversions were downright SCARY on the highway so make...