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Can you say anything about how the water sealing works? Also, is the dacron mostly for keeping bugs out when it's open? Been wondering just how simply this can be done. Any vent that is in a high pressure area and can keep out water and bugs, and be closable when stopped, should work fine.

Exactly. The presence of that forward facing vent isn't really creating airflow in the camper, unless your sealing job is quite poor. If you are perfectly sealed and go into a dust cloud that hits the vent it doesn't suck air (or dust) in at all; it just pressurizes the cabin. The amount that...

(y) Yep, the negative pressure inside the camper that draws in air and dust is caused by motion as well. I don't imagine this works very well if you are following someone or cross paths on a dusty road... ?

Utilitarian?... phew... It's a rolling work of art... (y) 😍

Scupper vents are common in Oz where they use ram air typically to pressurize the interior of a cabin. A vent like the one below that costs $45 (etrailer), may be a viable alternative for those who like it simple and cheap. Best to locate it where you can open and close it easily. I was thinking...

From the website:"Complete builds: $100,000 – $135,000 and up (plus vehicle cost)".

Curious about that second part. Carbon isn't really compatible with fiberglass as a "reinforcement", since it's ~3x the stiffness. The carbon needs to be strong enough to take the total load, else it will crack. In other words making a fiberglass structure and "reinforcing" it with carbon is a...

Try sanding fiberglass on a regular basis... covered in epoxy/FG dust... :poop::eek::devilish:

So 1 inch is enough... seems about right. I think many have been fine with less.

If you use a 1/2 ton or less to haul stuff, then you deal with being over GVWR. That's just how things are done in the US. It's not illegal.

I kinda wish I'd bought that to build my underbed storage boxes... instead of expanded PVC with wet layup of fiberglass. Somehow I never learn to make my tasks easier. Coosa is expensive, especially if you need to have it shipped. I'd just use plywood for interiors, but that's me... I don't...

^^^ Price is the same as 4WC, so...

Thought this might explain a little better. It's simple... just need to drill holes and insert bolts. The weight is distributed on each of the 8 bed mount locations. The beams are 6061 Al. All of it weighs ~100 lbs. I made the floor/base strong and stiff so didn't need a regular subframe. You...

A couple issues with subframes that use fixed pivot points are a) they don't match the natural twist of the chassis perfectly, introducing stresses, and b) these stresses in addition to the ones you get from just carrying the load, are concentrated on a small portion of the chassis. The spring...

I think "branch deflection" is a good feature! You are probably correct, I just wondered if something happened to make you think that. I guess the Kodiak is made like the Bigfoot and Northern Lite, with a self-supporting fiberglass shell made in a mold... then some foam and interior wall...

If you haven't added a layer of fiberglass to the exterior, then that would surely help. Then paint it... ;)

Had to look it up... 23.9'. A similar old Tacoma is 22', and so is the the older Tundra. The new ones though are over 24' so slightly worse than the Frontier. It appears to be a trend.

Kinda think your original wheels with slightly bigger tires would have been perfect. Don't get rid of that camper, it is AWESOME!!!! I built a bigger camper for a '84 2wd. That camper was too big, but yours looks just right and very cool to boot!

Yes. I will say that the door was the only place I had an issue caused from a panel being out of plane, though all of them are warped similarly. And I could have made the door fit very well if I'd simply glued the bottom piece of aluminum angle to match... but unfortunately I had a lapse in...

I think you are right...