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Those are nominally 34.8" while a tire labeled as a 35 is typically 34.5-34.6"... so I'd definitely call it a 35! Mine are 325/65r18 and are 34.6" diameter. They are on 9" +25 offset rims. I cut the body mounts, but I probably could have avoided that by increasing the caster.

Using stock wheels? 295/70r18s fit easily... maybe a little plastic work. A lift isn't necessary, but if you upgrade shocks keep it to ~1.5 inch, ideally.

Who is the builder, or is that a secret? Also, will you have bigger tires or any sort of lift? I think making the berth a few inches taller would be a good idea, since you know you will have two people. You could also make it NS by extending the floor of the berth inside 20" or so. I did that...

Oh, I can't sit up straight... but it's more height than many berths have, and the NS orientation makes it easy for two people to use.

That's strange because the frame does twist a lot, and the clearance doesn't change much when I balance on two wheels. Maybe your cab is flat on top?

Just to give you a bit more piece of mind, I'll tell you how mine is made... 🤪 It's a flatbed style but I figured... "why not make the floor structural?" rather than have a separate flatbed, so that is what I did. I was planning on using full span FG tubes in the panel similar to TC, but the...

My floor height is ~40" from the ground... and the base/floor is "notched" on the outer edge of the 2.3" thick carbon-foam floor/base/flatbed for articulation. The 35" tires (actually 34.5") with sag are about 33" tall, so there is ~6.5" clearance when articulating, and 4.7" straight. It's tight...

I don't know if yours hugs the cab like this, but I do like that feature! I've noticed that a lot of flatbed models are too far above the cab... like FWC for instance.

I'll take a WAG on the forces. Assumptions: Truck and camper weighs 15,000 lbs, has a 80" track, the camper mounting points are 40" wide, the force is only on the camper itself not the cab, and is acting horizontally on a rigid box. To tip the rig over, one side needs to be lifted off the...

Mine is just under 10' tall with a flatbed style, and 35s. The interior height is 76". I don't have anything on the roof, and branches haven't been an issue yet in the west... I just let the camper knock them out of the way. A polesaw would be a good thing to carry. Aterra could be an option...

Yes, that's why I asked you to determine the bolt loading if your rig was tipped over. "Overkill" would be designing in a 100x factor of safety for that condition. Make reasonable assumptions and it shouldn't take more than a few minutes.

I guess ET is offset? A 0 offset is 60mm or 2.4" more outboard than stock. You need a big lift to clear 37s, something I wouldn't be interested in. 40mm offset would be good, but I don't know of any 17s that have it.

How will you do it? Overkill isn't reassuring to me... it's the things not noticed, and workmanship issues that bite you. Yes, I gave an extreme (and ridiculous) condition that I think it would survive. You'd need to rip away all the fiberglass tube bonds as well as the foam core. I'd...

I don't think it's too technical... and people who put together that website have never impressed me with their engineering. Adding overkill in one spot while ignoring the weak link, isn't engineering. Tell me what forces there would be on a habitat that 10 x 1/2" high strength steel bolts...

There are fiberglass tubes in the core and the steel inserts fit inside this tube, and the bolts thread into these inserts. I kinda think that if Godzilla grabbed the rig by the camper, picked it up and shook it... that part would be fine.

They appear to have dropped the NA V6 this year, so I don't think any would be getting "good" mpg with a camper. Maybe the 2.7 turbo if you drive slow. The 3L GM diesel is the clear outlier for good mpg. With a delete and some tuning I bet it could do very well. 🤪

The issue Victorian stated was COG on an empty camper, specifically a short empty camper would be most prone to forward tipping. I don't see how this applies to the Outpost camper though, as they are sold already built.

There is nothing "magic" about a van unless you like banging your undercarriage and axles on rocks due to a lack of ground clearance, not having 4wd, and being underpowered (relatively). A large and aeroish standup camper on a Ram 1500 2wd with a 3.6L engine would do as well as the high top...

Yes... and everyone here has told you that you might as well take fuel economy off your list, if a big expedition vehicle and camper are what you want. There is very little in it. You also said that "camping is boring" and you "like to explore" and you are "worried about the environmental...

I used to build wheels (for a "living") and strong wheel takes a long time to build... 3 rounds of stress-relief, even and proper tension, true, dish, repeat. I've never met a bike shop employee who understood wheels worth a damn. The people who build them at the factories usually do a sloppy...