Isuzu npr 4wd

gator70

Active member
It wasn't cheap, about 1000 euros, I have the plans somewhere


Thank you for being honest. This helps me alot.

My retractables steps, with a aluminum slide out platform, steps following the side of the habitat. Parts alone $520-$540

My labor, and a small charge for a aluminum welder to "tack" the platform aluminium beams to each other. Full welding not required. Since in addition I use pop rivets. This will be a 500lb slide capacity.
 

gator70

Active member
Decisions to build – buy a expedition truck

Goals when deciding what platform, and how it should be used.



My goals



  • Not longer than 23ft

  • GVW 14000lbs

  • Good ground clearance

  • Reasonable fuel economy

  • Seating for more than 3

  • Sleeping for more than 3

  • Able to be off grid for 14-21 days self supported

  • Mechanically easy to fix, without overly complicated features

  • Four season capable

  • At least 100K miles durability before rebuild

  • No rust and with good maintenance history
 

gator70

Active member
Rear bumper fabrication

Requirements

  • One spare tire swing away carrier

  • Two tail lights

  • Tow hitch

  • H-lift jack mount

  • Bracket for two 20lb propane tanks
The habitat is about 86" wide

Tire carrier mount is installed last, due to tail light placement

When mounting bumper on the rear of the Isuzu frame, the factory has left and right bumper brackets that bolt to the frame (four bolts each side). It seems logical to use these, then weld fabricated arms to them with 8 inch 3/16 plate triangular gussets.

The bumper has two 2"X3" 1/4 inch tubes welded to the back side for strength.

Bumper was sourced from smaller school bus.
 

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gator70

Active member
Drivers seat replacement

Attached is a diagram how the factory seat looks and works

The seat cushion with frame lifts off for engine access underneath.

I have a replacement seat. Very nice

1) I consider removing the factory bottom seat frame and asking a upholstery shop to replace the cushion with the one from my replacement seat attaching it to the factory seat frame.
2) I plan to retain the slides and seat belt bottom mount
3) For mounting the back of the seat, it seems it all is specific to retaining the left and right hinges. Then pulling back the upholstery in those areas on the replacement seat, and fabricating the left and right mount for the factory seat hinges.

How I approach this engineering, is the discussion I hope to initiate.
 

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gator70

Active member
CAB rear access door

I have the access door I can buy. (24"x30")

What is the suggestion how I merge this with the cab rear sheet metal?
 

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gator70

Active member
Progress
(55mm composite panels) Steel frame as subfloor mounted to light underside frame - matched to my CAD subframe design using 5 inch c-channel.
Dimensions 5740 mm x 2200mm x 2100 mm (3700 mm on truck frame design with 440mm aluminum storage box on the rear) Six spring mounts - with dual 1 inch springs providing 5 inch movement on the rear and 3.5 inch movement on the front
All season design with water tanks heated and inside
Cab over trucks have tall cabs, unlike Earthroamers.

1731637917794.png
 
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gator70

Active member
I have to give you an A for ambition!

However as the saying goes: The proof is in the pudding!

How about you first build your rig. Field test it for a year or two. HONESTLY post here on ExPo about your failures (and successes)!

AND THEN START TO PITCH your "pipe dream"!!!

Man I'll tell'ya, myself and a lot of the other OG big adventure truck owners ( with decades of experience) here would have to take off our shoes to count the number of times that guys ( mostly with more dollars than sense) have tried to pull off what you are attempting. And most of them tried while it was in the middle of the expedition vehicle "craze", not after "that ship has sailed"!

BTW: I have not seen one success in my 35 years of owning Casa Azul!

By any chance have you perused the for sale section here on ExPo recently?? LOTS of people trying get out from under their "dream rigs" and selling them for far less then they have into them!


Proof ? - Success ? - Pipe Dream ?
 

gator70

Active member
Completely build it up. Drive it off-road for a few years. Learn from your mistakes... Then get back to us!

Quick question, how do you plan to lift the cab when you have a "cab-over" box?

I'm not the first that has a over the cab habitat.

There is large engine access in three hatches inside the cab. (crew cab was not engineered for cab tilt up)

For issues like a complete engine overhaul. The habitat must be lifted off (18 bolts)

The history for this design, is it was a flatbed habitat with four motorized lift jacks for frequent on and off activity. Habitat is fully contained.

1731689354945.png
 
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gator70

Active member
Probably should link to the specific video that you want opinions about...

The video I watched is one of their customers explaining the instructions given to them after the purchase.

As a summary, as I understand it, a steel tube is inside the composite panel foam core during the composite panel manufacturing.

Inside the foam core.

Then the customer is told to drill into this tube from the outer surface, and use a 1/2 inch blind fastener.

If I am correct in my understanding, this steel tube, blind fastener and the foam core is the only point this tall 3500 lb structure is bound to. And from what I did see the amount of theses points of connection is limited to ten.

Will that "foam core" hold theses ten fasteners during 60-70mph cross winds on the freeway? Where I live this wind is common.

 
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rruff

Explorer
Will that "foam core" hold theses ten fasteners during 60-70mph cross winds on the freeway? Where I live this wind is common.
There are fiberglass tubes in the core and the steel inserts fit inside this tube, and the bolts thread into these inserts.

I kinda think that if Godzilla grabbed the rig by the camper, picked it up and shook it... that part would be fine.
 

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