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PartSouQ, Megazip, Luso The place you will find almost nothing is Mitsubishi USA, Few dealers even have documentation and the warehouses have dumped stock. I think the only carry stuff for Nissan/ Mitsu vehicles now.

Keep in mind the cooler circuit is not turned on when the transmission is cool.

Technically the fittings are 10mm, so we do the best we can with what we have. The fluid required in these transmissions is very "harsh" on common off the shelf hose. Pay attention to what you intend to use.

There are two different spline sizes for the 28T, I do not have the tech stuff in reach and not fresh on my mind to explain it properly. In a Starion the 88-89 intercooled diff is stronger & beefier then the 86-87 IC diff. Both are stronger then the Non IC units.

Yes, the torsen diffs are all gear, no clutches. The are great in the front when cornering, they do not yank the wheel our of your hands. Look at names like Torsen, Tru trac and others. As stated I have one of the Russian front diffs here for my Pajero build, the machining and quality is superb...

Those diff blocks are a hoax, there are no actual friction surfaces. Personally I would go on Ebay and buy a Russian Torsen unit or do the actual Star swap. If you use 4wd on the street at all, go Torsen. if only used offroad use the Starion. With the Starion diff always do the plate flip to get...

I beg to clarify, Presuming you are only changing the diff and not the gears as a different ratio requires. You do not tough the pinion. If it was right from the factory you can not make it better. You are best to not change the running relationship of gears. All you want to do is reset the...

No true progress, did make me pour a whisky though. I does want a prime to start, at least cold much of the time just dribble fuel down the center stud of the air filter, otherwise starting fluid works well. I think it goes lean. When priming with fuel it tends to foul #3 plug at a minimum. If...

Update, This still will shut off when it chooses. It has spark according to my timing light, has fuel to the carb. This thing still needs to be primed to start even though the choke and accelerator work. Logic is to spend the money on a Spanish Weber kit. I do not care for carbs with the reverse...

Good research, I have had a curiosity on these lights as well, granted I have not driven with them yet and I do really like top quality lighting I am grateful Mitsu offered these at the time rather than so many lights that were only installed for style. To be looked at rather than assist...

Yah, I went in there to flush the little basket filter, but did not find one. It is frustrating, I sprayed cleaner if not just to see if it flowed, I do not believe the accelerator pump worked, but it did when I sprayed cleaner, So did I fix it, must have, dang thing. Nice thing after parking...

I won, Not sure how I won or what truly was wrong. I fiddled a bit with external lines and wires, nothing. Drained the coolant and pulled the carb, went after the fuel inlet, There is notstinking inlet screen in this one. Might have had one in the past. I started with spraying cleaner though...

Humm, one part just came to mind, The tiny filter screen in the inlet before the needle & seat. When Ethanol showed up here I had problems with them on the dual carbs in my 72 Colt. Took me awhile to figure it out then since it would be one carb that would plug. Since we have a source on Non E...

I have not detected actual water but I get a brown dust with the fuel which is obviously rust. The bottom of the float bowl is brown, it does not plug filters. With the electric pump I drained the tank before pulling the pickup last week, no visual water but I do feel I had some when it started...

Take a look at this site, this is a 93 with the 2.8D engine https://www.japaneseclassics.com/vehicle/1993-mitsubishi-pajero-xr-ii-2dr/

Yes, electric pump has been on awhile, installed it years back when the in tank pickup was rotted. A decent fuel pickup was installed 5 years back and visually checked last week. I bought a new Hyundai Pickup back in the winter but it has gone into hiding. Today I crawled under it looking at...

Humm, the carb I pulled out of storage has a smaller mounting pattern, the time it will take to clean and service that carb and machine up an adaptor plate I can be close to lifting the turbo motor out of my other G1.

Yes, above the bumper where I have the Hella 2000 driving lights, the fogs had the stabilizing strap up to the hoop as well, When I took delivery Shaun had put the fogs inside for the travel.

I am pretty sure I have eliminated the ignition as the issue. I am at wits end with the carb. When this wants to run, it might only idle for 10-15 seconds. Generally needs a prime to start. Then it will fire up and with coaxing accept throttle and run at 2500-3K for a few minutes. My mind tells...

Nothing real to show but I have the factory fogs hung in place. One might say these will be removed if I am going off road.