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What? Yes of course they do < ran the 5 spoke 18's on my 08 HSE before switching to v6 brakes and 17"

And in case you are wondering, it is as awesome as it looks in person as it does in photos

Everyone should do the T if they buy one, no matter what the year and mileage. I did the metal upgrade and when I was going to do it, I simply touched the hose and the T crumbled. Truck had ~70k on it.

Yeah that too. Personally I would swap the battery, swap the brake light switch (cheap and takes 5 minutes) and check all the brake lights to see if any are out. Then reset the codes and see what happens. All 3 of those can cause all sorts of funky errors. . The rule of thumb is the more codes...

And battery, when was that last replaced?

Hood switch (located on passenger side). You could just jump the connection with a chunk of wire (or even a paperclip) if you wanted to test that it is the root cause

I guess the real question is: is the cost of the head gaskets, brakes, suspension > than the cost to fix the rust. Personally I would take a no rust vehicle with questionable parts over a vehicle with rust. That can't be the only place where there's rust.

You mean DISCOVERY 2?

They use miles in the UK ;)

'character' over on disco3.co.uk has over a half million miles on his. You can read about the items he's replaced during that time.

I was also a VW guy. And for the record my Corrado was reliable. I've had the same luck in the Land Rover brand.

I hate this thread. Every time I see it, I go to craigslist and look up Disco I's But I can't get one yet, got to sell another project first :mad:

Good perspective Scott. Jeep doesn't live on the wrangler alone, but on all the 'Trail Rated' Mallroaders

Rust. You can see it here in the door jam. A common point for you salt belt people

I have this kit sitting in the garage. It is pretty involved (cutting/splicing lines, running them to a refill point) At this stage with all the LR3's I offroad with, we've never had a line rupture, or a situation that we couldn't solve by clearing codes and pulling fuses. However, I do carry...

Well when you are looking at a choice between a 30k 1985 defender and a 30k 2008+ D3/D4.... And on moderate terrain (all things being equal like tires, lift, protection) I would take that line. I have off-roaded both.

I really liked my BFG AT's. Worked good on road and never got stuck with them offroad - but then again I don't do mud pits. Personally I would look at the new BFG AT KO2. An updated design of the KO- I haven't kept up on when they are going to release a size that will fit on an LR3

Scott I would love to hear you comments on the DI vs RRC for DD/light offroading (if you haven't already typed it up). With both of them being essentially the same truck under the skin (minus the transfer case) I wonder if they truly "feel" any different

While not actually the DC100 concept, they did start with the DC100, update the front end to the new look and add some bells and whistles.

I would not recommend this on a locking rear diff. Normal diff sure. But locking has additives to make sure the clutches work like they should and don't wear out prematurely.