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There are two factors for sizing wire, amperage and voltage drop. Wire should be sized to handle the maximum amperage the wire will carry. It does not matter if it is a 10" run or 10'. Wire should be sized to keep voltage drop within required parameters. The longer the run the the more the drop...

It is frozen now so whatever is going to break has already. When you have time get it into a heated garage and thaw it out. look for leaks and mop up as it melts. You may get lucky. Open all the drains you can, but they are all frozen shut at the moment.

We have driven all over Baja in our 8' wide truck. That is every mile of hwy asphalt and most of the gravel. Going through towns like San Ignacio to get to the whale watching is also fine. You should recce any small towns if you want to leave the main route, or do it without the trailer hooked up.

I have never seen another one. Added bonus it is a 9.4 tonne axle.

Our truck straight from the factory in 1994. Custom ordered single rear wheel axle with 20" rims and 2 spares. The 20" rims were changed to 22.5's after less than 20 000km due to excessive noise and compound failure. An expensive change.

The reality of overland travel is unless you plan to cross miles of trackless desert 20" tires are not needed. If you are really worried push the width of the 22.5 tires to 395s (425s might even be approved for the 1117). Then look at tire treads for logging and construction.

You can air down 22.5's too. They are a much stiffer sidewall but the footprint and traction will still increase with airing down.

2 problems with tapping existing fuel lines. 1, you can empty the tank with the heater.2, If it is a diesel you are introducing points of possible air leaks to the fuel system.

I would take the 5000' elevation limit on the ThermoTop C with a grain of salt. I don't think you can get anywhere in North America high enough to give you problems. Our Thermotop C only ever gave us problems over 14000'. Then it was a case of having to try multiple starts.

yes

Maybe a class A towing a 4X4?

Those dramatic pictures of flipped RVs are usually stick framed standard north American junk. Composite boxes are incredibly strong.

Yes, the USA has the worst dealer support for Mercedes trucks. The USA also has the fastest cheapest shipping. Once you learn where to source parts it is not an issue. There are a couple of parts suppliers in North America with common Mercedes engine parts on the shelf. Companies like Pacific...

If you are in Co, take some time out to go to La Junta and talk to Rob Pickering at Terry Lee.

Has anyone here imported a completed motor home to the USA? Not a fire truck or a bare chassis, but an original expo truck built on a truck chassis, Unicat, etc. (over 25 years old). What was the import duty? A car is 2.5%, a truck is 25%. That is it for information on the CBP website. I would...

Honestly without seeing the situation in person you have no clue.

That is a different case. A composite camper does not require any external strengthening. Our truck carried 500 lbs of spare leaf springs on the roof for 23 years on a steel roof rack that was only supported by the box corners. One of the first things I removed. All that weight up high is crazy.

Go with a composite panel box, more than beefy enough and will hold its value compared to a plywood home build.

Lots of frost bridging in your method. Your corners will be Ice cold and you will get condensation in the corners and on every screw head. Metal construction is not suitable for cold conditions. There is no need for external metal structure on a composite panel build.

Too big, too long, too big a turning circle, poor break over angle and departure angle, dealer network outside US, Canada?