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PartSouq may be able to ship to your location. They stock a lot of OEM parts. Stalling may be related to a leaking vacuum line.

RockAuto and PartSouq are my sources as well. They have had some low stock, but still got what I needed.

I would check the rubber hose past the gas cap. It may be cracked. Is there any fuel leaking on the ground when parked? There is also an EVAP tank in the rear passenger corner of the vehicle that may be causing problems. Your fuel consumption also seems excessive, but that may be speed/weight...

IIRC there is only the one sensor on the 6G75. FSM seems to also show that. Note that this view is viewing the back of the engine. You can see the 2 covers for your rear seals. The passenger side is just 2 bolts and an o-ring. The driver side with the sensor is similar shaped, but I would...

I've done this when I did my timing job. If you can reach the sensors on each side, then you can do it easily. It is an awkward location with the firewall and cowl. The driver side is actually set at a right angle to the shaft (14846). They are easier to access with the intake manifold...

I would suspect it is something to do with that added wiring, but not sure on its purpose. CoAx cable is probably for an antenna of some sort. Maybe a HAM or CB module was installed at one point. I'd recommend a cheap clamp meter. Klein makes a pretty good one, but a cheaper one should also...

I'm the mechanic, but I'll bite. This is my white 01 XLS, and my current 05 that replaced it.

Yes, but the original OEM size of 265/65R17 is a very uncommon tire size in the US. There is little change to speedometer readout (~2mph @ 60) with the increase to 265/70.

You will want to run 265/70R17 size on your 17" wheels. That size is available in almost every A/T tire model.

I still wander here. A lot have moved to FB. I've only owned Gen 3s. They are not as bulletproof as I would like, but nothing major has changed. XLS vs LTD is only a concern for 01-02. I liked the cloth seats and transfer case lever, but the LTD is better overall. 03+ with the 3.8L engine...

Needs some work, but looks like a good start. Grab the FSMs from the link in my signature. Welcome aboard.

The brakes still work without the booster. You just don't get any help from the powered braking system. The accumulator is the main point of failure and it has an updated version. The accumulator allows the system to provide several power brake boosts even without electrical or engine power...

The rear differentials are interchangeable as a complete assembly. 4spd have a 4.9 ratio, 5spd have a 4.3 ratio. I changed the rear in my 05 using just wrenches to unbolt the axles and driveshaft. When looking for a replacement, you can also be looking for "hyblid" differential on the label...

I would grab a FSM from the link in my signature. Check for information on the drive cycle there.

I would also check the Isuzu/Mitsubishi Heavy truck section on this forum. They will have more answers.

I did not notice that this was not a Gen 3 engine. Most all the info still applies.

A shop was able to do mine in 6-8hrs when I first bought it at 110k. I did it myself at 175k last year. It took 2.5-3 days in my driveway with a good tool set, but I also was dealing with rain. I also was finding all the stripped/damaged pieces from previous owners/work. I would also note...

It is a tool used to tension the timing belt pulley while tightening the bolt. FSM has the procedure. It fits into 2 pin holes on the face of the tensioner pulley while clearing the bolt. Using 2 torque wrenches, this tool applies a small torque to tension the pulley against the belt. Then...

I'll post so my signature links are here as well.