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I'd take a look at the stuff growing in a condenser pan before doing that?

We've been on trips in the spring when they spray the sufficant on the FS roads and end up with 1/4"-3/8" of mud that dries like plaster to everthing. The sufficant must be alkaline as there is electrolysis on all the aluminum.

Fusing closest to the battery is best but the fuses will still prorect the wire unless the wire is cut/worn along the length.

In Canada we borrow from the bank to pay for incentives. Between Prov& Fed debt each of us now owes about $55,000. You want to borrow more?

New (wet/damp) wood is where I've had issues with construction adhesive not bonding. Some types of screws (especially deck screws) are too hard and will break in time and the broken part of the scew falls out. I'll use Cadmium plated #12-10 screws in some places but mostly I use structural...

On a production line it is better to have a useless label than have no label. Wouldn't be surprised if a few panels are labeled at a time.

If all the pos wires are on the same stud its a recipe for a problem. If the inverter is grounded its best to have a GFI I don't like running more than 20A through a disconnect

Missing breakers are factory options for a generator and a 110V water heater. I'd chase down the MISC. Might have the fridge (if there is one) and the PD on the same circuit. Sometime is nice to charge the batteries and not have anything else on The charge voltage for the solar is probably...

The secret to good flare is de-burring the I.D.

The 3 in series should be a good fit for the 100/30 controller.

Certainly not with the brads and staples that hold the production line trailers together. We had cupboards pop open the drawer bottoms falling out so I converted our trailer to Timbren STI air ride.

Do you have a way to disconnect power from the solar controller?

Leakage happens when current goes where it isn't meant to. Often it is facilitated through salt/dirt/moisture/condensation. I've seen leakage with (extension) cord ends on damp mornings, also differnt types of 12V terminals. The chance of leakage happening is minimal but I've seen more than...

Outdoors are 97% marketing and 3% improvents vs. other production line trailers. The Astro foil they refer to as insulation is ridiculous. My choice use to fall with Northwoods Arctic Fox but they've fallen off my list when they stopped using oversized axles.

Me either. I've seen leakage through the mounting fastners to the panel. Isolating the panel from negative works though.

A fold-away may work. https://www.fultonperformance.com/products/trailer-couplers/fold-away-couplers/IcDNSpx3DOQ2iA2x!UrxsGHZeED7ZvuS

Something to keep in mind if you don't drain the water tank out or what I see most often all the water can't drain out of a vehicle. https://nypost.com/2018/12/03/water-on-airplanes-is-basically-e-coli-soup/

5 hours seems kind of long for deburring. Were you using one of these? https://www.toolstoday.com/v-12434-ng8150.html I've also used a burr in a die grinder/dremel but it may mark the surface of the material if it slips. Let the rotation of the burr pull itself along the edge of the material...

Pickling Paste would remove the oxidation/ brighten the metal and take less time.

A buddy just spent a year looking. He gave up and bought a 10yo Jayco for $6000. It has the same fridge, heater, stove HW tank and pump as a new trailer. Figures it's going to cost him $2,000 to re&re the equipment and he'll be able to sell it for $6,000 in 3-4 years. Even if he wrecks it...