Keep the "death" part of it in mind. . . .No offense to whoever suggested it. It's not NEC code compliant. Take care. You've been warned.
With your choice, i'd take out the main fuse (or turn the CB off) leading to the shorepower cable or remove the cable completely to avoid accidents. I hope...
Get a 30A-to-15A adapter and plug it into your inverter output. Then plug your shorepower 30A plug into the adapter. That simple.
DO NOT use the male-male cable again, it will electrocute/spark/short whatever gets in contact with the open prongs of the shorepower cable, wherever it is.
Looks like the 1000A a misprint, tgey ave diff models.
Here's a few more I found:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BATTERY-DOCTOR-Battery-Isolator-Switch-6TXE1?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BATTERY-DOCTOR-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-6TXE0?Pid=search
Theyre out there, you jst...
Then the fuse is the appropriate course of action for it. But it seems you want another layer of insurance, therefore you can either use the solenoid in series as I suggested above or use a Battery disconnect switch such as the Hella switch...
Your winch is already operated by a solenoid; don't need another one.
You can use a 2nd switch (other than the included wired or wireless remote), which use small current to energize the solenoid.
I don't quite understand why you want an extra switch. Just in case the built-in solenoid or the...
You'll need a transfer switch to isolate your inverter from the shorepower cable. The transfer switch lets you select which AC power is active. Checkout Blue Sea marine electrical panels with manual switch. Or you can get and inverter with a built-in automatic transfer feature.
Yes, add the loads of the 3 6ga ckts, not the crosssection or dia. That is if you'll be using the full capacity of the 3 6ga wire simultaneously, which is far from practice. In practice, max simultaneous loads dictate the wire size; actual loads dictate the fuse used. Therefore, I'm in...
It depends very much on the dod (depth of discharge) in the morning before the sun shines. Remember that your 300W panels won't be always putting out its rated 15A or whatever. You'd be lucky if you get an average of 10A in the 6-hour period. That's why more panel watts is better for any...
What are you using to determine the "charge status"? The only absolute way I know is taking specific gravity of the battery electolyte. My meter readings are just telltales of the present situation but they're convenient.
When deciding on wire size, also think of the possibility of upgrading your mobile power in the future, so you don't have to rewire later. For example, Is it possible that you might want to power a fan, a small HDTV, or a bigger fridge later?
Things I don't see addressed in your wiring...
I dont have the patience for oil penetrators, etc.
If you can squeeze a cutter, angle grinder or reciprocating saw, cut the damned bolt or nut. It takes less than 30 seconds. You won't want to reuse the bolt/nut anyway.
If I couldn't use my Fantastic fan while in transit, I'm returning it for refund :-) I'd like to see where the user instructions say that. I have the remote control unit so I can turn the fan on or off anytime, in transit or not...
That would be the best way for a vertical mount. Get the 2-way fan (revesible fan in and out) so you'd push the air out when driving, otherwise you'll be sucking your own exhaust. That would also need a window open up front.
Installing the Fantastic vent sideways, I would be concerned about side leaks during a rainstorm, especially when the vehicle is moving, unless the cover gasket is improved for that purpose. I've had 3 of the vents on the roof and sometimes water goes through the closed cover during a heavy...
When I bought my 26ft motorhome near Boise Idaho, the motorhome broke down 3 times on my way home to Phoenix, Az. With my RV+, I had AAA each time tow it to the nearest Autozone, where I did the repair.
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