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I got this complete 2000 E350 4x4 chassis with this setup:

It'd be nice if there is an add-on blackbox with a temp probe and a logic circuit that taps into one of the internal regulator terminals that effectively controls the alternator's field current to drop or raise the float charging voltage deending on temp change. For a 660AH bank, however, I'm...

No mods to Delco 28SI. It has a 257F overtemp protection switch but never seen it trip. No temp probe at batteries for alt charging; Temp probe at the batteries is only for shorepower/generator charging (so I guess that's the missing component for alt charging). The alt has 2 fans, front and...

My OBA is a 20-gal 1.5HP belt-driven electric contractor air compressor. I separated the tank and the compressor unit. The tank is mounted under the frame and the compressor unit is in one of the external accessory compartments. The two are connected by a custom-made flexible braided and high...

I think the idea behind these dc-dc or alternator intelligent chargers are fantastic; however, I haven't convinced myself to use one since I installed a 200A Delco 28SI alternator in my rig. Perhaps someone here can tell me what I'm missing. The Delco 28SI has an internal regulator with a...

Yes, that could easily be true. However, that 25% advantage is only realized during THAT short period of time, say one hour, out of the 6 hours of peak production. So maybe 25% divided by 6 = 4.17% advantage?

That 20-25% mppt advantage is very difficult, if not impossible to realize, to translate in practical/actual terms because of the timing that the advantage is needed during the multi-stage spectrum of charging. That need presents itself during the bulk stage, which is the shortest charging stage...

The 140W panel is rated less than 8A max power current and less than 9A short circuit current, so a 10A controller is safe. Besides, most controllers have over-current protection.

If I were you I'd leave the existing wiring and Y the new panel using the same size 16ga. Your panels will only be producing about 6-7 amps total, a "13ga" is plenty unless the length is way too long, 20ft or so.

The 8A fuse is the correct fuse as the fridge only consumes 2 to 5 amps. 10 ga wire is plenty for it too, as I figure the length would not be in excess of 20 ft.

Then you're good with your plan. Just make sure you use UV rated cables for your panel wiring.

So if your alternator will be charging the battery, and your altenator can push for example 80A amps extra (ie above your vehicle's electric needs), then use a cable appropriate for that, in this case a 6ga cable is called for.

10ga is plenty for both panels and battery wiring, even if you triple your panels. As for fuse ratings use one based on your actual simultaneous amp draw. Butt connectors crimped properly and sealed should work. How are you going to fully charge your battery? Make sure you use the right size...

I don't see why not, as long as you use properly sized cables to compensate fir the extra lengths.You're not passing enormous currents through the cables.

So it looks like you have one / main circuit breaker and that's it. Then for my troubleshooting suggestion above, instead of pulling individual fuses, you'll have to disconnect/reconnect black/hot load wire from the junction box one at a time.

RVs could either have a floating neutral or the neutral bonded to ground. OP, check your Samlex inverter if it requires a floating neutral or the other.

So are you saying the inverter IS the ONE tripping on ground fault? If so, check and follow all installation instructions for you Samlex inverter. Then I suggest the following steps: 1. Unplug the shorepower cable from the inverter. 2. Turn on the inverter. If ok, proceed. 3. Turn off or remove...

OK, so the problem is a ground fault. But before tackling that, it looks like your shorepower cable is also homemade, not a built-in RVIA shorepower cable installed in the original motorhome/RV. As far as I know class B rv/motorhomes came with 30A shorepower service cables. Anyway, are you...

Plug your shorepower to your inverter, using a UL-listed or commercially /retail available 30-15A adapter (vs. not home-made). It's that simple (but it doesn't help your experimentation). Check all your fuses that theyre all good.

I use two lightweight hard sided aluminum cases, big and smaller - one for the bulky stuff like long straps, and the other for small but heavy pieces like pulleys and D-rings.