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Put it on a trickle charger when parked or put a battery master switch on it. Sounds like a lot of modern cars when they aren't driven much

I personally don't like lights in my face every time I walk toward the truck. Something up high enough to avoid that would be my preference or even better something low that just lights up the ground so you can walk around with clear footing.

There is probably little to be gained without other supporting mods. If conditions are dusty, there isn't much to be done other than having the inlet up out of the dirty air like a snorkel.

I've considered some hidden locks actuated by morse cables that are mounted in inconspicuous places. Anyone ever done that? My camper already has locking doors but those could just be decoys for the "real" locks that are hidden

I can't imagine that using the scan tool is necessary, maybe just speeds up the process.

If you are concerned about effecting air flow, you can bend the mesh in a Z pattern to increase the surface area of mesh. That is how it's done on race cars often times.

Try mcmaster carr. They have a huge variety. Maybe not exactly what you need but with some minor changes, I am sure it could work.

Personally I'm not a fan. A good bleeder bottle is all you need for a one man bleed.

Self adjusters can stick and not function. Probably worth removing a drum to have a look. They're basically the exact same as manual adjusters except a little arm rotates the star wheel if the shoes travel far enough.

Agreed here. If you had a higher power level AND more weight, there could be issues but without the weight, the drivetrain doesn't see the strain. Most diesels get better MPG while cruising when they're turned up too.

The clutches ability to hold is largely dependent on the weight of the truck too.

Oh I'm sure I'll drive it with no seat. This cabover shape is already a seat really.... I have an old RX7 seat laying around that I may toss in there. Otherwise I have a customer who owns a salvage yard and he's been stockpiling nice seats. I am going to get out there soon to pick some.

We do but it wasn't needed. This thing bled faster than anything I've ever bled. Once I get the new, larger master on there, I will see about driving it a bit. Still need to finish the front lights. The wiring is currently a bit hacked so I have to put new ends on the headlight wires, route and...

Try mcmaster carr for all sorts of cool fittings.

I love how Timbren started this thread, posted this " And if you have any questions... ask away! That’s what we’re here for! " Then never came back.

About 78" I got the fan shroud fabricated the other day and bled the brakes. The master cylinder is seemingly too small for my brakes so the pedal is soft. Luckily the later NPRs had a larger master cylinder that is the same size that my brakes need. I just ordered one. Should be an easy swap.

I haven't seen one but it would be a fun project.

Go with a true trac. It is the best choice for what you describe. A locker is largely pointless unless you're wheeling hard enough to lift tires off the ground and even then a True Trac works with some brake application.

I have some of that accordion boot that I'm not using if you're interested in going that route. They also sell the inflatable donuts that you put in the the void to seal it up.

Yes this has been done on a smaller scale to chill intercooler systems on high performance vehicles. I don't see why you couldn't add another evaporator to your system that is inside a box that you pump coolant through. Then having that coolant circuit with quick disconnects would be really easy...