Search results

I think if you spread the load out with a large plate and multiple fasteners, it would work. You could also add some structure in the void between the bedside and the inner bed wall.

I've heard many good things about them and if they take the abuse they claim and come with a lifetime warranty....... That's impressive. I will be considering them for my NPR build.

I’m using 2 marine hatches made by gebo. Found them on a marine supply website. They came with a combination screen/shade that installs below them.

So I've been doing a bunch of reading through the wiring schematics and running wires. I have quite a few unused circuits left over from the original harness too so I can add some stuff if necessary. The truck now starts with the key and the rear lights are in and functional. I also have the...

Not sure it matters to the compressor as the hi/lo switch “controls” the compressor. Right?

A couple of dry break fittings should be all you need. Nothing else would change.

I wouldn't say most vehicles do. It's the opposite. Especially anything that we're talking about on this site. Taken to the extreme, enough speed will lift the front of any vehicle that doesn't make downforce because air will pile up under the front of the vehicle and lift it up. I would say...

I tried to look up who I bought them from but can't find it. They were surplus modine gear motors used on CNC machines I believe. I think I paid $100 for the pair.. The last number is the bodine part #. They are kind of big but very robust and torquey Your purchase Gearmotor 12 Volt VDC 41...

I bought gear motors on ebay and fabricated screw jacks. They’re pretty quiet and have a high torque rating. If you look through my Facebook photo album you’ll find pictures

What would you recommend for an Isuzu NPR? I currently have not much bump travel but plenty of droop. Can I use your bumpstops to supplement my leaf springs or should they not be under load at all times?

I would host you at my shop if I could but there is no space, especially not for another expo camper build. Tennessee is very nice though and my friend down the street is renting his back lot for storage. Maybe you can park an RV there?

You might consider finding space in or near a shop that can benefit your build. A fabrication shop for example.

I think it would just reverse the flow through the fan matrix demist but stop flow through the engine. The radiator would be a separate circuit.

Mine is all welded aluminum frame with aluminum skin glued on with Sika. Seems quite rigid and not too heavy yet. It's not done and hasn't been on the road yet so there is that. I have confidence in it. It won't be the most insulated thing ever but it will do just fine for me. I'm not planning...

I wouldn't call this a "liberal" issue, fleecing or illegal. I would call it a reaction to an over litigious society. We have no one to thank but ourselves. I avoid chain stores anyway so I should be good.

There are water tank specific senders for gauges. I don’t think I’d use a standard fuel level sender. It would rust

It seems like the holes through the bumper are a good bit larger than the bolt right? I am thinking that is why the washer caved in and the bolt head corners were smashed.

Personally I don't see an issue with an inside mount if you properly duct the unit and vent the space it's in. You just want the area sealed from the inside, vented to the outside with only the coolant hoses passing out of the space into the camper.

Even easier... click here...

Thanks Facebook. Click the Coffeyfabrication link in my signature. All the pics are available there.