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I would use flat head allens. Countersink the holes in the aluminum plate. Be sure to order rivnuts that are meant for the material thickness of your tubing.

I use the individual drivers that require two wrenches. They use a bolt as a mandrel so any correct length or longer bolt will work if you break one. They’re also great for tight spaces. I always use the high strength ribbed rivnuts and a dab of loctite around the ribs before setting them. I...

Let the camper system cool off. Run the engine and feel the hoses until you find where the hoses aren't hot anymore. That should be your blockage or closed valve.....

I've got the front axle back in place with all new hangers and shackles as well as HD U bolts and spring plates. I wanted some more clearance to the steering parts and some more caster so I built in about 1.5" more height and a couple degrees caster. I added the lower shock mounts and limit...

Yes that is the factory front section. The full length frame rails end there and have that structure riveted to them. The steering box, cab and front leaf mounts all attach to that. Ian had welded some universal leaf spring hangers to the same place as my fabricated hangers that are shown...

Thanks! Once I go back together with the front end for good I’ll have more pictures.

I wanted a bit more differential to engine clearance too so that was a factor in raising it some.

Recently I finished the leaf spring mounts and U bolt flip install. I reinstalled the axle to mock up the shocks and build shock mounts and limit strap brackets, then I will take it back apart to finish weld and paint it all. I also got a rear driveshaft made. It's starting to look like I might...

I've since redone all the leaf spring mounts. I wasn't concerned with their strength so much as they were ugly and the rear mounts were welded to the frame. The front mounts were welded too but to the front section, separate from the main frame. Either way I redid them to add a couple inches of...

It's a nice build and I am sure it works great for him since he seems to plan on living in it full time. Being out west he probably won't have much issue with fitting it where he plans on going and I don't imagine he plans on going long distance with it much so the mpg isn't a big deal.

The point is that you CAN change the setting as opposed to a shock where you can't. People have different preferences for dampening and different conditions might require different setting, so an adjustable shock is good for that. Like I mentioned, you would probably find that you don't change...

Maybe if terrain was changing so rapidly that you wanted to adjust them constantly but I really don’t see that happening. Chances are you’ll find a happy medium and leave them there. Maybe change them for off road vs on road

Yeah "if determined" is important here. I still think swapping to a trailer axle is easier though

Yeah but don't we all have different levels of "easy"?

https://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=1akede5 Try here

Honestly sounds like you need warmer sleeping bags and or a camper.

Mcmaster carr should have all you need

Should be easy with the proper drum. Redrill the bolt pattern if necessary. Buy loaded backing plates for a trailer and redrill/shim those. I also think it's possibly easier and cheaper to just bolt in a loaded trailer axle.

If I had a $250k budget I’d already be done for starters, then I’d use the leftover $200k to buy a cabin somewhere out west as my base camp and I’d travel full time for a while. Hopefully I’d find someone to run my shop while I’m gone and rent my house

I think you’re mostly overthinking things. Keep it simple and buy one or two off the shelf aluminum tanks from Summit. They’re pretty cheap and they come with senders, supply/return fittings and vents with rollover valves. Just connect them with a hose at the bottom to equalize them and use an...