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Thanks! Here are some pics from today. Was finish welding a bunch on the lower section so I took the top off. Here it is all by itself. It's pretty stiff as is. I can lift one corner and it only lifts about an inch before the other corner lifts. Once the skin goes on, I suspect it will be very...

It's Sika 252 and about 8 rivets but the rivets were just there to hold it in place. The sika alone should be permanent. I used a shrinker to form the piece that the window mounts to then built the tubes in the wall with just enough space to fill with Sika in between the tubes and the piece that...

I got the rear window structure fabbed up and bonded to the wall structure with sika. The window frame shown holds two tinted, insulated panels that tilt open at the bottom and have screens in them. Got the assembly for only $60 on ebay and it seems pretty nice.

Will do for sure. I got a rear window assembly for it so next on the list is mounting that up.

Awesome! thanks

I fabbed and bonded on the panels for the underside of the lower section yesterday using sika 252. I used a pneumatic gun that I am really glad I bought. It made it effortless. This is some impressive stuff! It grabs right away but allows you to fine tune the alignment of each panel. Then it...

More progress..... The upper structure is nearly done. I finished adding X bracing in all the spots that will have it. The open area over the sleeping area will have a large, nearly full width, screened, vent that will open with a crank handle like the smaller roof vents that you see on a...

I searched and didn't find much. I was wondering if there is a US dealer that can provide all of these things. I can buy them separate from different places but it would be great if I could deal with 1 place and maybe get a package deal.

I am a bit late here but here is my take on some stuff...... I do the same except with bare butt connectors. Never ever Scotch Loc! Exactly how I do it. You have a sealed connection that remains flexible. Win Win. I use connectors like that when needed but I slide the plastic housing off...

Yes you can exit through the cab. You could also access the motor and disconnect the shaft and manually lift it up as the roof is pretty light. Planning on locking pins at the corners so it can be locked in the up position for stability and strength while open.

It's alive! Takes about 2 minutes flat to open all the way.

Ok good info.. Thanks! I think the 5 gal Spa would be ideal and the electric option is a nice bonus. Do you heat your cabin with the espar? Mine will be pretty small so I was thinking that a small liquid to air heat exchanger would work well to just radiate heat into the cabin

What size tank do you run? How fast does it recover if you use all the hot water?

I suppose having the electric heat option would be nice too but does anyone make one without the electric heater element?

I have been thinking of this for my build. Using a heat exchanger for a shower. One side plumbed to the heater and one to the on board water tank. I would also have a switching valve to divert heater flow to a radiator for cabin heat.

Thought about this right after posting but aluminum would probably make the water taste funny. Looks like stainless steel will do it though. I feel that if I find a plastic tank that will fit my space well, I will still have to build a skid pan to cover it, which adds complexity.

What might be wrong with an aluminum tank? I want to build mine a custom size and shape to maximize space and fit under my camper box, on the truck frame where the spare used to be.

These are all good points guys. I suppose I could build the panel without the window for now and see how the wall windows do in cold conditions.

Interested in the run time issues. I was unaware of that. I also want one for cabin heat and and hot water. Are the Eberspacher diesel units limited on run time?

Was thinking of an insulated snap in mat to cover the window for those situations. Built properly and sealed well to the frame, I don't see a possibility for leaking