1987 4Runner- Expedition Build Up.

I guess Sammi had what you needed?

Yep. I met Sammi last night and got the part. THANKS AGAIN DUDE!

I also got to take a quick tour of the ShrockWorks fabrication shop... SAWEEETTNESS. All the stuff I was drooling over for my Xterra. I had no idea it was made in Houston! I've never seen such clean fabrication in person before. Those guys have some nice products!
 
37986_567503646601_62002887_32584599_1460440_n.jpg


I'm probably going to paint the bumper and the rings around the blinkers as well. Hopefully soon (after this trip) I will get a pre-made winch plate and begin my bumper build.
 

4Rescue

Expedition Leader
Love ehat you're doing with that beauty mate. Keep up the good work, it's good to see these "gems" out on the road being used as they were intended. Dear Toyota... MAKE A RE-PRO OF THE 1st GEN 4RUNNER!!!!!!!!!!!!! THey would sell like HOT-CAKES. IMO They're easily one of the coolest 4wd's ever offered in the N.American market. or the world for that matter.

Anyway, love the truck mate, hope you're happy with her cause she's a beauty eh.

Cheers

Dave
 
Since I am going through the truck a few parts at a time. I think my next focus will be on my steering components.

Had my brother help me out, and I have some play at my drivers side ball joint and at the bottom end of the pitman arm. Ball joints are cheap, and I intend to install my BJ spacers (1.5") when I do them. But on the pitman arm, is it a part that I need to replace the whole thing? If so, is there an upgrade for it?
I see Marlin has this : http://www.marlincrawler.com/steering/box/crossover-pitman-arm

IMG_0207.jpg

On the pitman arm, the play is on the opposite end of the steering box (tie rod side). So, buying the marlin setup would allow for the use of FJ80 tie rod ends... which I am assuming are better?
IMG_0208.jpg


IMG_0212.jpg

Ball joint boot is torn and the play is seen at the bottom.

And yes, I know my gear box is leaking. I refill the reservoir every 2 or 3 weeks (or before hitting the road).
 

Mr. Leary

Glamping Excursionaire
:coffeedrink:

I remember that happening to me a few times. Now I use Microsoft Word for trip reports to save my progress in case my computer crashes.
 
Replaced the power steering gear box this morning. I'd give it a 3banana rating because it requires some awkward heavy lifting, and the need to finger out which hose to use/ cut, and how far to break your steering shaft link (between gear box and steering wheel). :sombrero: Break? What? Why?!? The gear box is off of an early 90 (94 I think) 2wd 4runner. It bolts right in and has the same number of hose inlet/outlets. The difference is found in the length between the very front of the gear box (closest to bumper) to the tip of the output shaft. It is approximately 3/4" longer than the 87 gear box.

Results? I didnt line up the link right, going to work on that, steering wheel is about 20* turned to the right when vehicle is moving straight.
It is also of note that the gearing is different. You reach full lock turn sooner, with fewer rotations of the steering wheel. It is much more car like and reminds me of the tight steering on my Xterra, which I loved.

UPGRADE complete-ish. Now I need to install new power steering high pressure hoses.... since the old one busted on me on my test drive......... I had to cut up the one that came I pulled with the gear box.
 

Mr. Leary

Glamping Excursionaire
Replaced the power steering gear box this morning. I'd give it a 3banana rating because it requires some awkward heavy lifting, and the need to finger out which hose to use/ cut, and how far to break your steering shaft link (between gear box and steering wheel). :sombrero: Break? What? Why?!? The gear box is off of an early 90 (94 I think) 2wd 4runner. It bolts right in and has the same number of hose inlet/outlets. The difference is found in the length between the very front of the gear box (closest to bumper) to the tip of the output shaft. It is approximately 3/4" longer than the 87 gear box.

Results? I didnt line up the link right, going to work on that, steering wheel is about 20* turned to the right when vehicle is moving straight.
It is also of note that the gearing is different. You reach full lock turn sooner, with fewer rotations of the steering wheel. It is much more car like and reminds me of the tight steering on my Xterra, which I loved.

UPGRADE complete-ish. Now I need to install new power steering high pressure hoses.... since the old one busted on me on my test drive......... I had to cut up the one that came I pulled with the gear box.

Would a body lift resolve the steering shaft length issue?
 
So, I found an Aussie locker for the front differential for cheap....... should I consider getting that or hold off to get a rear locker? I found the need for a locker several times.... but refuse to pay for ARB....:Wow1:
 

BLKNBLU

Explorer
Hard to say. There are a lot of if's and maybe's in there. I'm personally leary of a non selectable in the front, but I also know a guy that runs an Aussie up front in 4runner without any apparent issue. I have no experience driving that type of set up so I can't give any personal insights.

If you're dead set against ARB and the deal is good enough and you plan to lock up front eventually, then go for it certainly. If it will be your only locker for a longish time and/or the deal isn't really great, then I would hold out for something in the rear.

I have ARB in front and Lockright in the rear and they work really well. Like you, I'm in a warm climate and snow/ice is not or rarely is an issue with the non selectable. In fact, I haven't had to deal with it yet. Good luck.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
186,900
Messages
2,889,073
Members
227,437
Latest member
Top Jimmy
Top